What do you have going for an electrical system?

[Spineguy]

Started looking into the wiring in our 88 CO. It appears the converter / inverter (if that's what it is) doesn't work. The 12 volt suff does work as long as the converter / inverter is turned off. If it is switched to the on position nothing works. I'm wondering what people are using for a battery, what is used for an inverter / converter, solar panel system and related parts to make that work and of course what folks are using to charge the house battery via their truck without running the truck battery down.

Thanks for your help!!

 

[Dr.Science]

I have a 90 CO. I rewired it this winter, the old wiring had a lot of corrosion. This is what I did:

Electrics
1. Move electrical base from the upper shell to the lower shell, greatly simplifying the wiring layout with all high-amperage items except the vent fan kept in the lower shell near the big battery.
2. Standardize 12V wire colors: red is hot, white is neutral, brown is running lights.
3. I don’t need a power center. Most of the time I have no shore power and everything onboard runs from the battery. If I have shore power, it’s only needed to run a battery charger, and then I still run everything from the battery. So my shore power connection only needs to run to a switch, then an outlet, into which I plug a battery charger that’s hard-wired to the battery. I don't even need the converter that I already have.
4. Remove shore power connection from upper shell. Replace the (broken) vintage outlet with a new unit on the aft end of the lower shell.
5. Remove external lower/upper shell wiring connection.
6. Lower shell gets a shore power connection in the back wall of the camper, which feeds to an outlet in the battery compartment. This is the only 110V outlet in the camper.
7. The following things are wired to the battery terminals:
a. AC-DC charger (about 10 AWG)
b. Solar connectors (standard AWG)
c. DC-DC charger (8 AWG)
d. A 6-fuse block (8 AWG)
8. Fuse circuits go to:
a. Refrigerator (14 AWG)
b. A 12V cigarette lighter plus USB-A and C outlet (14 AWG)
c. Hydraulic pump, with a switch permanently installed near the pump motor (behind the cabinet door, so not normally visible).
d. Water pump.
e. Top shell lights and vent fan (14 AWG)
f.

 

[dastrom]

I'll answer what I can since I have a '75 Alaskan CO and they changed over the years. Mine never had a converter (converts 110v AC to 12v DC and charges the battery) and I'm not sure it ever even had a battery. Yours probably doesn't have an inverter (converts 12v DC battery power to 110v AC for standard outlets) unless someone added one and usually requires multiple batteries. With batteries it all depends on how much you want to spend. I use LifePO4 lithium batteries which are the best for many reasons and cheaper over time but have a higher initial cost. I just added a dc to dc charger to charge my house batteries from the alternator with out burning up the alternator or draining your starter battery. It limits how many amps your alternator will send to your house batteries and lets you set the right charging cycle and amperage for the type of battery you have. I went with this one but I have a good sized alternator. https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Tr-12-...&sprefix=victron+dc+to+dc,aps,192&sr=8-3&th=1

Here is a small solar system for 12v. There are lots of resources on youtube for solar.

Hope this helps but the best way is to spend some time researching batteries, solar systems and charging systems to see what will work for you and the money you have to work with.

 

[hugho]

I have a 90 CO. I rewired it this winter, the old wiring had a lot of corrosion. This is what I did:
Electrics
1. Move electrical base from the upper shell to the lower shell, greatly simplifying the wiring layout with all high-amperage items except the vent fan kept in the lower shell near the big battery.
2. Standardize 12V wire colors: red is hot, white is neutral, brown is running lights.
3. I don’t need a power center. Most of the time I have no shore power and everything onboard runs from the battery. If I have shore power, it’s only needed to run a battery charger, and then I still run everything from the battery. So my shore power connection only needs to run to a switch, then an outlet, into which I plug a battery charger that’s hard-wired to the battery. I don't even need the converter that I already have.
4. Remove shore power connection from upper shell. Replace the (broken) vintage outlet with a new unit on the aft end of the lower shell.
5. Remove external lower/upper shell wiring connection.
6. Lower shell gets a shore power connection in the back wall of the camper, which feeds to an outlet in the battery compartment. This is the only 110V outlet in the camper.
7. The following things are wired to the battery terminals:
a. AC-DC charger (about 10 AWG)
b. Solar connectors (standard AWG)
c. DC-DC charger (8 AWG)
d. A 6-fuse block (8 AWG)
8. Fuse circuits go to:
a. Refrigerator (14 AWG)
b. A 12V cigarette lighter plus USB-A and C outlet (14 AWG)
c. Hydraulic pump, with a switch permanently installed near the pump motor (behind the cabinet door, so not normally visible).
d. Water pump.
e. Top shell lights and vent fan (14 AWG)
f.

Really useful Post Dr Science and thanks for commenting on my electrical problems Did you remove the negative side of your circuits from the skin? I just want a simple 4 circuit 12V system supplying water pump, fridge fan , furnace, and interior lights . I would like to use existing wiring if possible . I have a solar panel to charge the battery and a backup 110 charger as well.

 

[Dr.Science]

The upper shell skin is grounded because that serves the running lights. The lower shell skin wasn't grounded and still isn't.

 

[Denver Alaskan]

My 1966 NCO 8' Alaskan has been converted to all 12 volts. Three 100 watt solar panels in a framework supported front and rear by the canoe rack brackets charge and maintain a Group 31 AMG 12 volt battery. A 12 volt fuse panel near the battery protects all the 12 volt circuits for the Engel 12 volt Marine refrigerator, 12 volt charging outlets for cell phone, computer, etc,; new 12 volt flexible neck reading lights, and the 12 volt "backfeed" line to the former 120 VAC fuse box. The former 120 VAC circuit now powers new 12 volt Edison base LED light bulbs screwed into the former 120 VAC flight fixtures. I covered the old outside 120 VAC inlet with a solid cover plate since it it no longer being used.at all. I'm entirely 12 volt in the Alaskan and don't need 120 VAC power to camp anywhere, even in the occasional campground.

The 12 volt marker lights remain on a separate fused circuit connected to the truck's lighting system.via the 12 volt input plug on the driver side front exterior of the Alaskan's top half. As Dr. Science notes, the upper shell skin is ground to the truck chassis as the ground for the marker lights. Hope this gives you some ideas. .