What rack should I have installed?

[Ted]

We are going to have a rack installed on our camper. In the immediate future it will just be used to get a few things (chairs, gray water tank, etc) out of the camper and on the roof for easier access while on the road. In the next year or two we will likely add solar and a couple of kayaks or a canoe. We are adding the roof struts as well. Right now I'm planning on having the basic rack FWC and ATC offer installed. But I can't help but wonder if there is an advantage to paying a little more and having the Thule or Yakima tracks installed instead. Will componants from either of those manufacturers, say Hully Rollers, mount to the basic rack? I know Thule makes a square crossbar. Are the bars the same size as the ones used by ATC and FWC and the Thule mounts will fit them? Your thoughts, advice, and experiences are appreciated.

Ted

 

[NWCamper]

I would personally go with the aftermarket rack system. My Grandby has the factory rack and its pretty bent up from the previous owner loading and unloading a small boat. It might be decent for mounting a solar panel but it does not have the clearance necessary to use yakima/thule attachments. I suppose you could modify something to work but if it were me I would spend the cheese and get the yakima or thule system with the tracks. I know plenty of people like the factory rack but for me, its seems flimsy, looks homemade and doesnt function well for canoes and kayaks. Just sayin.

 

[Cort]

Ted,

I think a good combination would be to have the factory psuedo "basket" installed in the back and then do the Yakima racks in front of that. That would allow you to have some basket items, chairs, tubs etc in the back that are easy to access from the wall steps and then have the Yakima racks for the kayaks. On my factory ATC Rack I am able to install a large Thule cargo box.

If money was no option i would have a Yakima 3 or 4 bar system so that I could have two for hauling kayaks and use the other two for a basket or box.

Cort

 

[Lighthawk]

Hi Ted,

I don't have any experience with the factory rack, so I can't comment on that.
Our Hawk came with the Yak track system and two cross bars. I have found it to be extremely versatile and have used it for bikes, kayaks, skis and more. Lucky for me, I already had a variety of Yakima accessories for hauling toys Ebay/Craigs has used Yakima gear available.

I have a little ratcheting bike tool that uses the 1/4" driver bits, so I can adjust the rack towers (which hold the round Yakima bars) forward or back in a jiffy. If I want to remove the bars for a sleeker look or to switch attachments, the Yakima track system pops off without tools in seconds.

You've probably seen photos of our setup with kayaks using the hully roller / mako saddle system. We're able to load two 12' kayaks that weigh 50# each, using our folding three step ladder that we use as our back steps. With 40# struts in front and back we (both pushing hard) are just able to lift the roof with 100# + on the roof. It's very convenient to not be required to unload/load the roof when you want to pop the top.

 

[chnlisle]

Build'm.

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/844/page__hl__rack__fromsearch__1

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3324/page__hl__rack__fromsearch__1

 

[Alley-Kat]

Here's some info I put together for ATC to give out to customers that had questions about owning Thule rack equipment components already, or if a owner prefers to have Thule components instead of Yakama components (there are big arguments all over the web on which system is best). And, as of this time last year ATC only does the Yakima tracks (I'm not sure Thule even has the basic tracks, I've never seen them).

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Thule Roof Rack Mounting Components for camper mounted Yakima Tracks.

Base Rack Attachment

TK1 Tracker Kit 1, MSRP $59.95, UPC 091021431171

The Thule TK1 Tracker Kit is the base rack solution for cars with factory racks. The Thule TK1 Tracker Kit
attaches to OEM factory rack tracks on multiple vehicles, replacing the factory crossbars and creating a
dependable Thule load carrier.

This also fits the Yakima Tracks (mounts directly to them).

· Sold as a set of four TK1 Feet

· Kits used with Thule 430 Tracker II foot pack or Thule 430R Rapid Tracker foot pack, both sold separately

FootPacks (select only one type, 430 or 430R) A foot pack mounts to the TK1


430 Tracker II, MSRP $139.95, UPC 091021430174

The Thule 430 Tracker II is the base rack solution for cars with factory racks. Thule Tracker II 430
attaches to factory rack tracks, replacing the factory rack and creating a dependable Thule load carrier.
Set of four feet.

· Redesigned foot with Click-on/Click-off technology for maximum user-friendliness

· Requires Thule TK Tracker Kit, sold separately

· Innovative kit system simplifies rack transfer between vehicles

· Convenient push button release for rack removal when not in use

· Includes 4 Thule end caps

· Uses the older, rectangular Thule load bars

430R Rapid Tracker, MSRP $129.95, UPC 091021430976


Thule is proud to introduce the Thule 430R Rapid Tracker Foot Pack, a part of the newer Thule Rapid Aero System.

· New foot packs are designed to work exclusively with Thule rapid aluminum load bars (kind of Oval-ish shape).

· Seamless look achieved with integrated foot and rapid aluminum load bar

· Product range fits more vehicles than any other rack manufacturer

· Customize rack with any Thule accessory, Xadapt kit required for certain accessories

· Includes 4 Thule Rapid Aero end caps

· Xadaptors are required to mount some accessories

Locks (in case you want/need locks)



544 4-Pack Lock Cores, MSRP $48.95, UPC 091021000247

Thule's lock cylinders lock and unlock with the same key to eliminate the hassle of multiple keys.
When ordering Thule One Key System lock cylinder packs we recommend that you purchase additional
lock cylinders in anticipation of adding accessories.

· One key system secures all your lockable Thule accessories

· One key to unlock everything

· Enter your lock code in your order comments to match your current Thule locks

· Includes 4 cores, 2 keys and change key to remove lock cores

· Matching lock cylinders can take up to 2 weeks, should we not have them in stock, as they are special order from the manufacturer

No matter which way you go... Thule or Yakima, for NEW equipment the best prices and most outstanding service that I've found is at RackAttack. For USED equipment it's Ebay or my local CraigsList for me.

 

[leadsled9]

I faced the same question when I was ordering my camper. I wanted to maximize future options so I had both installed. Of the two systems the Yakima system is the sturdiest.

I didn't want to do an aftermarket install myself since the roof penetration and sealing issues are critical. I have used both systems from time to time.

I just posted this pic on another thread for someone but here it is again.

 

[Overland Hadley]

I do not think there is enough room to mount Thule components on the factory aluminum racks, they are to close to the roof. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. (EDIT: canoe blocks might fit, but I do not think a kayak system would fit.)

I would go with the Thule roof tracks, installed at the factory. And then do the rest of the system yourself.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Ted.I went with the factory rack for the sole purpose of carrying my canoe.I posted the pictures at "bobcat with canoe".This system works for me just fine.The Yakima racks would not have fit my ideas.But you mentioned getting both might work.You need to figure out what you want to carry and with what ease you will be loading them.I have hauled my canoe about 12,000 miles on the camper with the system I made and it works well for me.Also I placed a 23"x22" solar panel on the right rear corner of the rack and it fits nicely between the tubes.The canoe doesn't shade the panel.Lots of things to consider.Good luck.
Frank

 

[Ted]

Thanks everyone for all the great info here. Overland, info about aftermarket items maybe not fitting is exactly what I was after. That was a concern. Frank, I intended to copy your canoe set up which is why I wanted the factory racks. But now we are looking at kayaks instead, so it sounds like an aftermarket set-up is the way to go. Granted, both may be even better as Cort and Leadsled suggested, but having both installed would be an even bigger expense. And, Jay, yes I could make and install my own. But like Leadsled said, the roof penetration and sealing issues are critical, and I'd rather leave that to a professional too.

So we will go with the Thule tracks. Two sets the full length like Aaron did on his new camper. AlleyKat, I appreciate the info. I need to educate myself on towers, crossbars, etc. Like Yakima, there are lots of Thule items on Craigslist so hopefully I can save some money there. Thanks again.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks everyone for all the great info here. Overland, info about aftermarket items maybe not fitting is exactly what I was after. That was a concern. Frank, I intended to copy your canoe set up which is why I wanted the factory racks. But now we are looking at kayaks instead, so it sounds like an aftermarket set-up is the way to go. Granted, both may be even better as Cort and Leadsled suggested, but having both installed would be an even bigger expense. And, Jay, yes I could make and install my own. But like Leadsled said, the roof penetration and sealing issues are critical, and I'd rather leave that to a professional too.

So we will go with the Thule tracks. Two sets the full length like Aaron did on his new camper. AlleyKat, I appreciate the info. I need to educate myself on towers, crossbars, etc. Like Yakima, there are lots of Thule items on Craigslist so hopefully I can save some money there. Thanks again.


Ted the rack choice has to fit your needs.Sounds like you are on the right path.Do you have roof lifter struts? If not you might want to install them,it will save your back or keep you from removing the roof items every time you pop up.Belive me with the 70# canoe on the roof the lifters make it easy.I can't think what it would be like to remove the canoe every time I wanted to pop up.It's hard enough to get the canoe up there once in a while.Good luck.

Frank

 

[Ted]

Thanks, Frank. Already made plans for that. Marty will be installing the roof lifter struts at the same time. They may be a little overkill at first but will be needed for sure once a boat or boats are up top.

Lighthawk, you mentioned that lifting your roof is still challenging with the yaks up there. Are you using the 40 lb struts? I wonder if going to 60 lb struts would be better and then just remove them when you aren't carrying the boats.

 

[Lighthawk]

Ted, we are using 40# struts, and leave them in place full time. Pulling down unloaded I grab the push board and pull to get the top to drop the last bit. It's no big deal, but I doubt you would with 60# struts. You could remove/reinstall, but everytime?

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Thanks, Frank. Already made plans for that. Marty will be installing the roof lifter struts at the same time. They may be a little overkill at first but will be needed for sure once a boat or boats are up top.

Lighthawk, you mentioned that lifting your roof is still challenging with the yaks up there. Are you using the 40 lb struts? I wonder if going to 60 lb struts would be better and then just remove them when you aren't carrying the boats.


Ted the only problem I had with bringing the top down, was in the front.Like hawk said you can pull the top down with the "push" bar,but at first the front wouldn't stay down when you dropped the rear so I had Sharon clip it than drop the rear.They seem to stay down better with age.When alone I have a bunggie inside to hold the roof while I clip the front.Not really a problem considering how they save the arms and back.One of the best mods you can do to the campers.

Frank

 

[Cort]

Ted,

I would go for the 60 lb'ers. If you position them correctly they will stay down no problem....there is a break over point (Marty has this one nailed down) on the struts...once you are there they exert very little lifting force. As far as getting it lowered initially, I installed a pull handle front and back that works great....about $6 a piece from your local hardware store.

Cort

 

[Lighthawk]

Thinking this through . . .

The downside of the 40# struts is they could be a slightly stronger only when lifting 100# of gear on the roof. They are a bit challenging when you drop the (unloaded) top, but it can be done with one person. I screwed on a loop of webbing onto my front push-board so I can tug it back towards me to drop the last six inches or so. As Frank mentioned, the struts seem to relax with a bit of age (not like any of us! )

If you remove the 60# struts 'cause they're too strong, well then you are back to where you are today: lifting hard without the help of the struts, which most of us agree isn't great. I doubt you would remove them once the top is up because it's too high.

It seems better to me to go with a system that stays in place without taking them off/ putting them on. Either way there's either too much lift or a bit more would be helpful (but only if loaded). Maybe we need adjustable struts, like our airbags

 

[chnlisle]

Ted the only problem I had with bringing the top down, was in the front.Like hawk said you can pull the top down with the "push" bar,but at first the front wouldn't stay down when you dropped the rear so I had Sharon clip it than drop the rear.They seem to stay down better with age.When alone I have a bunggie inside to hold the roof while I clip the front.Not really a problem considering how they save the arms and back.One of the best mods you can do to the campers.

Frank

Like Frank I had a problem keeping the front down while trying to drop the rear. It occurred to me that the camper couldn't care less which end you lower first. Now I lower the rear first, set the barrel latch and then lower the front. It works great and the camper hasn't complained once.

 

[Alley-Kat]

While doing my initial visit to ATC I got to try out raising a Bobcat roof without the gas sturts and that made me decide on getting the Suspa 40 lb gas struts installed at the time of build.

After picking up my Bobcat, the Suspa 40 lb gas struts worked really great, easy up and easy down... no problem with the front poping back up. I loved 'em.

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Then I installed my 24lb solar panel as far forward as possible, virtually right at the front edge of the top.
Front is a little hard to raise up (but not as hard as without the solar and without the gas struts, like when I visited ATC) , and it comes down very easy, as in... I have to slow it down, but doable, no real porblems.
Rear works just about the same as prior to the solar panel, easy up & down.

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Then I placed my two, 9', fat, lake kayaks (each weigh about 30 lbs) on the rear section of the Thule roof rack, no special mounting components, just strapped to the horizontal racks which are covered with water pipe foam insulation tubes, with fore and aft safety lines attached to the kayaks.

Front behaved a little heavier, not too bad, however, it did take more effort to raise and I had to slow it down even more on the descent. 50 lb gas struts might be nice up front.
Rear was really hard to raise with the 40 lb gas struts, and it wanted to crash on the way down, not good at all.

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So, I got a pair of the Ebay 60 lb'er gas struts from Strut-your-stuff (not made by Suspa). Put them on the rear with the top in the UP position (the only way to do that, IMO). They were just a little longer than the Suspa ones from ATC, and it was sort of hard to compress the gas struts to get them mounted. I tried to figure out a way to have a second set of top or bottom mounting brackets for the two different lengths of gas struts, but, after a while my brain hurt, and I didn't come up with a good solution.

No kayaks on the roof yet. The front behaved the same as before, still 40 lb'ers up there. The rear was just about impossible to drop from the inside. I had to step out the back door, stand on my back porch and hands over the top of the roof and pull down with my body weight. Once down, it didn't want to go up on it's own, so, I'm OK.

Added the Kayaks.
The rear went up nice and came down nice from inside, 60 lb'ers are great, except for compressing them in the mounting, that was a bear.
The front was about the same as before, still had 40 lb'ers up there, wished I had 50 lb'ers.

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So, I'm thinking this is OK, except for one thing, I'd like to get a pair of Suspa 60 lb'ers for the rear that are the same length as the Suspa 40 lb'ers, so it's easy to mount them using the brackets that ATC installed. On the rear I can just switch between the 40 lb'ers (no Kayaks) and 60 lb'ers (Kayaks to be taken) when I want to, and it's easy to do when standing on my back porch.

I remember a WTW thread on the gas struts saying that the Suspa 50 lb gas struts were "custom built" and the cost went thru the roof (pun intended), so I'll live with the 40 lb'ers on the front.

So, that's my experience.

I'll probably have the Strut-your-stuff 60 lb'ers for sale (hardly used at all, with metal end fittings, not plastic end fittings) once I get the Suspa 60 lb'ers in hand. Anybody need non-Suspa, 60 lb'ers?

I guess I'll end up calling Suspa as they have over 300 web pages of gas springs (as they call them) and it's a bit hard to figure out which ones I want to order. Unless someone knows of another retailer with an easy web site?

 

[leadsled9]

One thing to consider is that you are mounting all of these high power struts into thin wall tubing with small sheet metal screws.

If you get too ridiculous with them you might compromise long term reliability of the frame or roof.

 

[Overland Hadley]

One thing to consider is that you are mounting all of these high power struts into thin wall tubing with small sheet metal screws.

If you get too ridiculous with them you might compromise long term reliability of the frame or roof.


Good point.