Wind Deflector on 2005 Tundra Access Cab W/Hawk

Wallowa

Double Ought
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
2,189
Location
NE Oregon
Any bright ideas out there for mounting a clean, effective wind deflector on the cab of my Tundra? Yakima towers cost an arm and a leg; must be a simpler less costly solution that works.

Thanks in advance,

Phil
NE Oregon
 
how about making a deflector that attaches to camper. I have seen a few made from plexi or plastic materials. My wind deflector made from a pool noodle did well and finally had to be retired after 25,000 miles or so. It would have kept going but the winds of Patagonia were too much. I made it for under $20 dollars
 
Wallowa said:
Any bright ideas out there for mounting a clean, effective wind deflector on the cab of my Tundra? Yakima towers cost an arm and a leg; must be a simpler less costly solution that works.

Thanks in advance,

Phil
NE Oregon
Phil, give "ReRack" in Portland a call. They have a lot of used Yakima and Thule that might be more affordable.
 
I thought about a deflector on the lower front section of the Hawk; but how to attach it without drilling holes? Velcro would not hold or would it? A lot of torque if you extend the deflector down toward cab from front lip of camper. Even considering the old "suction cup" mounts. Intent is to lessen trapped air, deflect bugs or whatever and to reduce wind noise.

My ignorance, but what is a pool noodle?

Thanks...Phil

PS...Just saw "Re-Rack" will check it out, thanks.
 
Great ideas in those posts..I never thought to Google WTW. Will not drill into camper but some of the installation look very sanitary.

Phil
 
Must just be my day for not understanding. How did you make a wind deflector from a 'pool noodle'?

Thanks..
 
No idea unless it is just a press fit between truck roof and camper cab over? Shove it in there in a U shape to direct wind away from roof to camper gap?

Paul
 
I made one for our Ocelot from aluminum sheet metal and aluminum bar stock. Bent the bar stock to form the angle and it is attached with screws to the cab overhang. Cost about $23 in materials from Pacific Steel. Hmm, looks like I never posted photos of mine. Will do so.
 
Buckland,

Very nice job. I am reluctant to put any holes in the camper skin. But in the end if I can't score a set of towers for the cab to attach an aluminum deflector to; screws may be the only recourse.

Phil
 
I used aluminum L stock to make the V. Screwed into the ply... not a big deal ... if you take them out later a dab of white silicone and a repaint will hide them. I bought 66" x 4" of 1/8 aluminum. Clamped half to my table saw top then sandwiched the other half in-between 2 boards (clamped) that way when you make the bend in the middle, it comes out straight. I pre-drilled the L stock so, after installing on the overhang, I could clamp the wind foil in place and then mark the holes to be drilled in the wind foil. I used very small stainless screw and nuts. puts a coat of paste wax on it and the bugs slide right off!
 
buckland said:
I used aluminum L stock to make the V. Screwed into the ply... not a big deal ... if you take them out later a dab of white silicone and a repaint will hide them. I bought 66" x 4" of 1/8 aluminum. Clamped half to my table saw top then sandwiched the other half in-between 2 boards (clamped) that way when you make the bend in the middle, it comes out straight. I pre-drilled the L stock so, after installing on the overhang, I could clamp the wind foil in place and then mark the holes to be drilled in the wind foil. I used very small stainless screw and nuts. puts a coat of paste wax on it and the bugs slide right off!
Would you happen to have any pictures of your design?
 
3M makes a really stromg double sided tape.

Hardware stores have aluminum 90 degree angle and flat bar. Cut to size and bolted together with stainless hard ware, you can apply 12" aluminum flashing, sold as a roll.

Cut flashing to fit measured/fabbed frame and then use the 3M tape on the back of the fabbed wedge and front skin of the FWC.
 

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Back again, I'll post some photos of the 'underneath' and from front. My camper is stored for the winter so in garage light is not great.
As above stated... L stock is 90 degree... 2 36" pieces will do. Find center of camper (mark it). Leave space 'at point' as shown in photo so bend in aluminum has room. I have tried 3 types of material for the deflector: 3/16" Marine ply (painted) lasted 2 years... aluminum flashing (stated above) ...I found it rattled too much and didn't look good (IMO) and lastly 1/8" aluminum flat stock (bought at a metal shop) worked great. solid, crisp looking and no noise. Of course you should measure truck cab to camper overhang distance. I wanted 1" clearance.... and no there is not enough flex in your truck to cause a problem with it hitting your roof... I have been on serious bumpy roads w/o any problem (Toyota Tacoma). I have also seen a cool Rotopax tank rack positioned behind the deflector as well, nice use of the space.
 

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