Winter camping in our Hawk at below freezing?

rosirodrig

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2007
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4
We have loved our Hawk and the great trips we have taken in nice weather.
We recently did a weekender and the temps got to freezing and it snowed!
We stayed toasty warm with the furnace working overtime. However, after the trip we wondered about our water lines at those low temps. Would appreciate any advice, suggestions from you "seasoned" campers. We are newbies and have only had our HAWK for a short time. Don't want to do something wrong because we didn't know any better. Look forward to your posts. Thanks.
 
Winterizing Tips

Hello there


So far, I have not had any customers call in with water freezing problems while they are out camping.

All of the water lines and the water tank are inside the camper, so as long as the furnace is on once in awhile, the water should not be freezing up.

If you are going to be away from the camper all day (example: skiing for the day), it might be a good idea to set the thermostat at the very lowest setting possible so it will kick on from time to time.


Here are the basic "Winterizing Tips" we have in the owners manual for when the camper is not in use (in storage) ...


Winterizing the Hot Water / Outdoor Shower System:

To reduce the possibility of fractures and splits in the system's water tanks, lines, and pressurizing pump in climates where the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F; 0 degrees C), it is recommended that as much water as possible be drained from the system, or you can add a mixture of water and non-toxic antifreeze to the campers water system (Please contact the companies at the bottom of this page for more info regarding non-toxic antifreeze, mixture ratio, and important safety info). If your camper is equipped with the “Hot Water Heater”, it is NOT recommended that you use anti-freeze in the campers water system unless you remove the anode rod and replace it with a ¾” drain plug.

1. Drain the Hot Water Tank:
Drain the Hot Water Heater 3 or 4 Gallon Hot Water Tank by removing the Hot Water Tank Drain Plug (Anode Rod). This plug is located on the center of the bottom of the hot water tank in the Hot Water Heater Compartment. It is accessed by removing the Hot Water Heater Access Panel on the exterior wall. Remove the Hot Water Tank Drain Plug (Anode Rod). After water stops flowing from the Hot Water Tank Drain Plug Port, replace the drain plug.

When you remove the drain plug from your water heater, you will see an anode rod attached to it. The anode will probably look corroded and eaten away, but that’s the purpose it serves so don’t worry about that. Annually, or when the rod has eroded away to about a quarter of its original size, replace it. Simply unscrew the drain plug and screw in a new one.
Suburban water heaters feature an anode rod. The anode equalizes aggressive water action, providing cathodic protection for the tank. It is a very important factor in tank life and should only be removed for inspection, draining or replacement. It is removable using a 1-1/16" socket.
All Suburban water heaters are protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to prolong the life of the tank. Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate. Because of this, we recommend it be replaced annually or when consumption or weight loss of the rod is greater than 75%. Note: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration. To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever the RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non-use with water in the tank.

* IMPORTANT HOT WATER TANK NOTES
Drain the water heater completely, particularly if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod inside of the hot water heater. The result will be accelerated deterioration of the rod and heavy sediment in the tank. If you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze into the system, remove the anode rod from the tank (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug.

2. Drain the Shower Head and Hose:
Open the door to the Outdoor Hot Water Shower Compartment near the rear of the camper on the driver's side. Remove the shower head and hose. Extend the hose until it is straight. With the hose straightened, position the showerhead so that it is lower than where the hose is attached to the shower compartment. Turn on both the cold and hot water valves until the water stops flowing from the showerhead. Close the water valves.

3. Drain the 20 Gallon Freshwater Tank and Drain Line:
The 20 Gallon Freshwater Reservoir, located under the camper's front seat, and its drain line are drained at the drain valve located on the driver's side rear exterior wall near the camper entry door, open the valve and leave it open.

4. Drain the Water Pump:
Run the Water Pump for approximately 15 to 30 seconds or as long as water is flowing from the sink faucet with both the hot and cold water valves opened to drain as much remaining water from the system as possible. Turn the water pump off, and leave both water valves open so that any excess water that might freeze, will have room for expansion (instead of cracking a water line).

5. Add Non-Toxic Antifreeze
Add the correct amount of properly prepared non-toxic RV Antifreeze and water solution to the Freshwater Reservoir at the Potable Water Port on the driver's side of the camper. See antifreeze manufacturer's mixture recommendations.

Run the system water pump until antifreeze/water mixture flows from the sink faucet and showerhead. Close all valves.

Stow the showerhead and hose to the Outdoor Hot Water Shower Compartment.

Drain the sink and replace the cap on the sink's gray water spout.

Before refilling the camper's 20 Gallon Freshwater System and 3 Gallon Hot Water Tank with fresh/potable water, thoroughly flush the entire system with the pressurizing pump running, to remove the antifreeze.

=======================================================

Winterizing the Standard Camper Water System:

To reduce the possibility of fractures and splits in the system's water tank, lines, and water pump in climates where the temperature is below freezing (32 degrees F; 0 degrees C), it is recommended that as much water as possible be drained from the system, and that a mixture of water and non-toxic antifreeze be added. (Please contact the companies at the bottom of this page for more info regarding non-toxic antifreeze, mixture ratio, and important safety info).

1. Drain the 12 Gallon Water Tank:
Drain the water tank by opening the drain cock (twist to open). The drain cock is usually located under the driver’s side of the camper or on the rear wall of the camper depending on model. After water stops flowing from this tank drain, close the drain cock.

2. Drain the Electric Water Pump and/or Hand Pump Line:
Either use the hand pump on the sink or run the electric water pump to remove any excess water from this water line. Be careful not to run the electric water pump too long without any water flowing through it. The electric water pump needs water flowing through it to cool the motor.

Unscrew the outside cap to open the sink / gray water drain. The gray water drain will be located outside, on the on the driver’s side of the camper. This will allow any water excess water to drain out.

3. Open the Outside Sink / Gray Water Drain:
Add the properly prepared non-toxic RV Antifreeze and water solution to the Freshwater Reservoir at the Potable Water Port on the driver's side of the camper. See antifreeze manufacturer's mixture recommendations.

Pump the hand pump or run the electric water pump at the sink until antifreeze/water mixture flows from the sink faucet. Turn electric water pump off and make sure all valves are left open.

Drain the sink one more time and replace the cap on the sink's the gray water spout.

Before refilling the campers Freshwater System for re-use with fresh/potable water, thoroughly flush the entire system with the hand pump or the electric water pump running, to remove as much non-toxic antifreeze as possible.


Camco Antifreeze – 1-336-668-7661 – www.camco.net
Pah-Nol Non-Toxic Antifreeze – 1-800-777-2466 -- www.houghtonchemical.com



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Winter Camping in our Hawk

Thanks Stan !!!!! Your post makes me feel better. It's been cold here in ABQ and with the truck sitting waiting for our next trip, emptying the water tank and opening the faucets should be ok until we take off again. Thanks also for suggesting we join the Group. It's been fun reading all the posts. Very helpful for us newbies. Happy Holidays to you and yours!
 
Dear rosirodrig--

Welcome to the forum. Everyone I have (virtually) met here is wonderful and helpful.

Don't be shy about asking them stuff!
 
When camping in freezing weather, use of the heater might keep water pipes from freezing, however, I'd be watchful of places like the outside shower hose, water tank drain valve, and where the supply pipe connects to the exterior of the camper. During travel or storage in freezing weather, obviously the water system must be drained or filled with antifreeze (RV potable type). After thorough inspection of my Grandby's water system, I noted some places that would be extremely difficult if not impossible to completely drain even if blown out with air such as the pump, supply pipe between checkvalve and camper exterior, piping under sink to exterior shower, etc. (The previous owner of my camper froze the water heater supply pipe) I'm choosing to fill the system with -100F RV antifreeze (glycol). I added a bypass kit to the water heater and a suction kit near the tank. The suction kit allows me to fill the system with antifreeze without putting it directly into the tank where it will be impossible to completely remove it (some folks are more sensitive to the lingering taste/smell/etc). The bypass kit will allow you to keep the water heater drained while the pipes are full of antifreeze. I found the stainless steel clamps FWC uses on the pex piping at a local hydraulics shop along with the installation tool to modify the piping. The previous owner said he'd camped at -9F. Our storage temps are -60F here.
 
Holy sh** AK, -60F, that makes our lows look positively balmy. I think I'll take my winterizing advice from a real cold climate expert like yourself in the future. Keep posting.
 
I need my rig often during the winter months so I blow the system out as much as posible for storage so I don't have to deal with flushing out the antifreeze for a short weekend trip. I would'nt mind using whisky in the system, It would taste better:D
 
How many gallons of wiskey can you get into the water tank??:confused:might be onto something here, dont have to worry about draining tank, or sterilizing your system:D, and bet you make alot of friends along the way;)
 
Cold weather camping in our HAWK

You all make me laugh. Wish Bailey's Irish Cream would work as well as Whiskey..................either one....I wouldn't be driving much. :)
Happy 2008! I'm sure glad we found this site. We are learning so much. Thanks to all for all the posts.
 
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