Wire shorts at the front lift panel

What type of wire is it can you see the factory marking it should be next to the 12 AWG. In the one pic the wire looks to be not automotive wiring by way it is twisted,it looks like THHN OR THWN which would not seem a good application for that spot.


I'm afraid I didn't pay attention to the wire type when the wire was freed up. It's taped down now, so I can't easily check it. It was a nylon coated wire, with little flexibility, so probably THHN or THWN.

I agree it is the wrong wire to use here. That's why I went with the silicone insulated thin strand wire for the splices.

If Stan the Man is reading this thread, I hope he'll weigh in on any design changes that have been (or WILL be) made.

Radicalfil, I also called the manufacturer to discuss my planned fix, and didn't get a return to my call right away, so after waiting a bit I called again and asked for Terry directly. That worked. Terry was very helpful.
 
Thanks for posting.

We have already starting making some changes towards a better design.

Customer feedback is always appreciated.

:)


___________________________________________________________________

If Stan the Man is reading this thread, I hope he'll weigh in on any design changes that have been (or WILL be) made.





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When I first got my camper I was surprised that FWC was using stiff wire meant for static household applications. For applications that are subjected to flexing and vibration you need a fine stranded wire with compliant insulation.


I agree, the stiff wire used was a large part of the problem.
 
Thanks for posting.

We have already starting making some changes towards a better design.

Customer feedback is always appreciated.

:)



Thanks for replying, Stan. I am very curious about the solution you guys will come up with. I hope you will share it with us, when the time is ripe.
 
I believe the black and red wires are for a solar panel.


Where do these wires come out? are they routed out onto the roof? If not where do they end?
 
Thanks for posting.

We have already starting making some changes towards a better design.

Customer feedback is always appreciated.

:)


___________________________________________________________________


.

In my 2007 Eagle shell I noted the wire sizes in several places are a bit undersize, you should probably evaluate that. Solar panels should really have heavier wire, the wire left for a fridge is tiny, probably voltage loss, etc. As I have the driver's side panel off the inside my plan is to replace virtually all the wire with more appropriate size tinned, stranded marine wire, which I believe to be a better choice than the auto wire. With the shell almost all the wire is under the panel though most is not connected. I also am one that believes in not using the frame as one side of the circuits. I do ground the frame, but it's not a conductor.

I'll be really interested in your new design for bringing wires to the ceiling and roof. I do plan to put in solar, though not immediately. Probably would prefer 10 gauge for that if I can figure a route. The fan and lights can be light, I've already converted the lights to LED so my ceiling draw is lower than original.
 
Where do these wires come out? are they routed out onto the roof? If not where do they end?


The terminal for the solar wires is located above the front roof lifting block. I have some photos in my build thread, shortly after I purchased the camper.
 
The terminal for the solar wires is located above the front roof lifting block. I have some photos in my build thread, shortly after I purchased the camper.


Here is a link to the photos. Linky
 
In my 2007 Eagle shell I noted the wire sizes in several places are a bit undersize, you should probably evaluate that. Solar panels should really have heavier wire, the wire left for a fridge is tiny, probably voltage loss, etc. As I have the driver's side panel off the inside my plan is to replace virtually all the wire with more appropriate size tinned, stranded marine wire, which I believe to be a better choice than the auto wire. With the shell almost all the wire is under the panel though most is not connected. I also am one that believes in not using the frame as one side of the circuits. I do ground the frame, but it's not a conductor.

I'll be really interested in your new design for bringing wires to the ceiling and roof. I do plan to put in solar, though not immediately. Probably would prefer 10 gauge for that if I can figure a route. The fan and lights can be light, I've already converted the lights to LED so my ceiling draw is lower than original.


From all that Ihave read the 10 gauge is the smallest gauge to minimize voltage loss. I did'nt like the idea of piercing the roof so I deciced to go down the exterior and then through the turnbuckle port for the solar supply wiring.
Phil
 
From all that Ihave read the 10 gauge is the smallest gauge to minimize voltage loss. I did'nt like the idea of piercing the roof so I deciced to go down the exterior and then through the turnbuckle port for the solar supply wiring.
Phil


In checking out solar panels it's rare I've seen even 10 gauge coming off the panel. Also rare to see larger in various folks solar setups to see that big on their setups. I figure it would take 6 or more to make much difference. The current off the solar panels we use is typically not very large, which minimizes voltage loss some.

I'd think the long path down the exterior would be a lot of voltage loss too. The part of the path that's the hardest to design is the variation in the roof popping up.

There are weatherproof parts for taking the wire through the roof from marine use which I think would be trustworthy.

I've not decided on either gauge or path for the solar panels. Got so much else to deal with first on my Eagle mod. I'll probably set everything else up in the electrical and start measuring it all under actual use to see if I really need the solar, though I've used solar lots in other places. We don't tend to set at one place for all that long, so the truck will be able to do a lot.
 
Thanks for posting.

We have already starting making some changes towards a better design.

Customer feedback is always appreciated.

:)


___________________________________________________________________






.




Not a customer, yet(but soon!), but am curious if you guys have switched to the more flexible automotive type wire yet?
 
Not a customer, yet(but soon!), but am curious if you guys have switched to the more flexible automotive type wire yet?


No change in the wire type, but we have changed the routing of the wire so that is not repeatedly bent. We are confident that this is a sound solution.
 
No change in the wire type, but we have changed the routing of the wire so that is not repeatedly bent. We are confident that this is a sound solution.


Any timeframe as to when that new design was implemented?
 
ski3pin said:
Marty at ATC directed me to run wire behind the lift panel as I have crudely depicted in the drawing. Putting two bends in the wire eliminates the repeated bending in one place that leads to breaking.
Click to expand...
This makes sense to me too. I had a similar design in mind, and this diagram lays it out clearly.

After reading this thread I realize I'm just another FWC owner (2008 Hawk) with broken wires at the front hinge.
 
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