Mark G
Senior Member
There's a zero missing I think: 120/240v. Around here, only the McMansions need more than 200A service.
Yes, but it does cover the wiring within RVs to include truck campers, along with RV Parks. The only place I have found that refers to identification of conductors is "551.49 Grounded Conductors". This refers back to 200.6 which is about marking white for Grounded Conductors (as opposed to Grounding conductors which would be green). Going on the premise that the negative side of the battery system is bonded to the chassis, and that in turn could/would be grounded when plugged into shore power (assuming a non-damaged cord). That would make the negative a Grounded conductor I guess.Mark G said:NEC Article 551 specifically excudes the wiring within the vehicles.
HiJaSAn said:I'm not sure what DavidGraves (OP) has in mind, but for me voltage drop is the controlling factor. My batteries need 14.4 volts in absorption. To get that I need 4 AWG wire.
If my batteries are at 50% they can accept 30 amps:
my alternator puts out 14.7 volts,
2% allowable voltage drop = 14.4 volts.
22 feet round trip alternator to house batteries,
200ºF wiring temp rating,
60 amp fuses on both ends,
connector between truck and camper,
= 14.4 volts at house battery = happy battery =
jim
A 30 amp breaker (fuse) is max size for 10 AWG wire. I am assuming that the breaker was sized for the wire, so the answer is no. Fuses are always sized for the wire gauge:DavidGraves said:. . .
I am routing 4 ga into camper to a 50 amp fuse block about 6 inches from my battery isolator/separator.....
There is a factory install thermal reset 30 amp breaker on the hot lead between isolator and battery.
Can I replace this with my 50 am fuse block at this same location ?
My need is to fuse energy from house battery into camper main harness.
Not disagreeing with Squatch... clarifying, maybe...Squatch said:Put your fuse/breaker near the camper/house battery. That way you have one on each end near the batteries. This protects all the wiring between them. I used marine disconnect style breakers. This can also be used as a switch to disconnect the batteries for service work ect. It also kills the juice to the truck wiring if the camper is not connected.
Main fusing is always best near the source. This leaves little unprotected wiring.
Connect all loads downstream from the fuse/breaker.
Now that makes a lot of sense. Thanks.OutdoorAddict said:There is a trend to get away from having black as ground in DC systems. As most campers and a lot of boats have both AC and DC wiring, there have been cases where people were working on the wiring and received electric shock when they thought they were working on a black DC ground wire when in fact they were working on a black AC hot wire.