Yakima on FWC

Wandering Sagebrush

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Nov 17, 2013
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Northeast Oregon
I just finished installing the third bar for my Yakima system on the new Granby. I guess I am a bit grumpy about it as well. Since FWC did not offer, and was not willing to provide a third bar, I ended up buying from REI and Rack Attack. I got the control towers at REI, only to get home and discover that it also needed 'Landing Pads'. I bought those, and the lock cores from Rack Attack. As an aside, the UPS driver for my neighborhood likes to hide things, since we have a long driveway and a gate. It was a bit of guess where for the landing pads and locks. :mad: Whine!!!

Stan or Steve G, if you're reading this... Offer a third bar as an option. That way, we can have long items such as canoes and kayaks, along with shorter items like a storage box. It would also mean that we don't have to break any seals from the original FWC build.

OK, whine complete...
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
OK, whine complete...
Would you like some cheese with that? :p

Seriously, I like the idea of adding a third bar to my Yak tracks (factory installed).
I think Sunman has done a good job fabbing a platform on a three bar system, but don't think it was Yakima.

I would love to have a viewing platform on top that I could stand on, or even possibly set up a tripod.
It could also serve as a loading deck for additional storage. The bars flex, so there might need to be midspan support. Just thinking out loud here . . .

Sagebrush, the best thing I have found with the Yak system is the quick disconnect from the control tower to the track.
I snap down the control tower locks and the two bars are mounted to the camper. I can pull them off in about one minute working solo. It makes it very easy to switch your kayak mounts to your ski racks down on the bench, then lift the entire assembly and snap into the tracks. However, be very sure you always check the locks are engaged or you could be like me and punch a hole in your roof.
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/gallery/album/244-fwc-roof-repair/
 
Andy, I agree that it's nice to be able to pull the bars by just unlocking the cores, pulling back on the cover and removing the bar. That is handy!!!

Out of curiosity, what do you (or others) use to get access to a Rocket Box or basket when it's on the top? I'm going to need something more than the two step stool. And, where do you store it? Looks like about a 4 four foot step ladder is needed. Maybe it goes on the racks while traveling.
 
Yep, getting into a Rocket Box on top of the camper is a bit touchy. I have tied nylon around the landing pads, so I can hang on with one hand while I load/unload the RB. Best way is to use a ladder, but sometimes I just don't want to carry one along. Depends on how often I plan on getting things out of the RB.
 
Good question. My Hawk came with a nice three foot aluminum step ladder. I worked out a way to mount it securely on the rear foot steps on the left side of the rear wall of the camper. We like the sturdiness and wide 6" treads, as getting in and out is where someone might do a header. When we load our kayaks onto our Yakima kayak roller/saddle, I need the ladder to step up and place the bow in the rollers.

I haven't seen anyone else that mounts their ladder as I do.
It's only a three foot tall unit, so it won't be much help if you need into a rocket box on top. I guess for a big trip you could put a five or six foot aluminum step ladder on the racks, but it seems like too much.
 
you can buy a variety of collapsible ladders that fit nicely in the wheel well for quick access when carrying a canoe or rocket box
 

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Lighthawk said:
Would you like some cheese with that? :p

<snip>
OK, just installed a new dryer for the Bride. I want some wine with the whine!!!! :D Cheese is optional.
Thanks everyone for the ladder suggestions!
 
I access my rocketbox by standing on the rear tire of my truck. Then again, I'm above average height, so a 33" round step might not be ideal for everyone...
 
I added two cross bars to the original two for a total of four on my Grandby. I also added a Boatloader to the right side to load a 13' kayak held in place with gunwale brackets. There's a Basketcase left side on the front two bars for additional storage and have a brackets to hold paddles/fishing poles and other long stuff left side on the rear two bars. I also carry a 4' step ladder held in place with another set of gunwale brackets in the same area. This ladder is for accessing stuff on the roof. It is easily loaded & unloaded using my 2' step ladder and rear wall steps. Obviously the 2' step is for getting in and out of the camper.

We just got back from a 9 day desert trip and my roof was loaded with a 60" Hi-Lift jack, 4' step ladder, & TRED traction devices strapped to the racks. The Basketcase had a pick axe, charcoal, & my 5 year olds camping toys.

When we head to water, the roof normally has the kayak, paddles, fishing poles, crab pots, clam tube, wet suits, life jackets, 4' ladder, and a few other assorted odds & ends.
 
Hey guys - I am interested in finding a way to load and mount my kayak up onto the camper. I like the idea of the boat loader and gunwale brackets. Do you guys find that you can lift the camper top with the extra weight up on top or do you unload the kayak/canoe when you stop to pop up the top of the camper? I already have a ski box with my fishing gear up top and when I crank up the forward post the cross beam of wood that the crank sits in flexes a fair bit already. I would worry that it might not take the extra load.
 
Ronanmd1 said:
Hey guys - <snip> I crank up the forward post the cross beam of wood that the crank sits in flexes a fair bit already. I would worry that it might not take the extra load.
Crank? What crank?

I would not try a lift with a canoe or kayak. My big double kayak is about 90 pounds. It will definitely come off before I lift the top.
 
I lift mine with the Kayak on but mine is probably more in the 50lb range. . It takes a bit more effort to lift and it definitely comes down faster but its not that bad. Depends on how strong you are. As far as safety I don't think the roof minds a bit.
 
Ronanmd1 said:
Hey guys - I am interested in finding a way to load and mount my kayak up onto the camper. I like the idea of the boat loader and gunwale brackets. Do you guys find that you can lift the camper top with the extra weight up on top or do you unload the kayak/canoe when you stop to pop up the top of the camper? I already have a ski box with my fishing gear up top and when I crank up the forward post the cross beam of wood that the crank sits in flexes a fair bit already. I would worry that it might not take the extra load.
I lift with the top loaded. I have 80# lift struts and use the hand crank when loaded. If you're worried about the cross beam breaking, you could add wood strip to double its thickness.
 
Ronanmd1 said:
Hey guys - I am interested in finding a way to load and mount my kayak up onto the camper. I like the idea of the boat loader and gunwale brackets. Do you guys find that you can lift the camper top with the extra weight up on top or do you unload the kayak/canoe when you stop to pop up the top of the camper? I already have a ski box with my fishing gear up top and when I crank up the forward post the cross beam of wood that the crank sits in flexes a fair bit already. I would worry that it might not take the extra load.
I have carried a #60 canoe on the custom rack I built onto the factory rack of my ATC.Have had no problems with lifting the roof with the #40 lifters. If I had to I could actually put the canoe on the roof myself BUT I have thought better of that now.
Now I have an inflatable kayak that I carry inside so the canoe stays home.
Frank
Some pictures of the canoe on it's rack with top lifted and lowered.We have driven thousands of miles with the canoe on top and not one problem.
 

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I'm going to resurrect this old thread rather create a new one... does anyone know what size crossbars to use?
 
JHa6av8r said:
I lift with the top loaded. I have 80# lift struts and use the hand crank when loaded. If you're worried about the cross beam breaking, you could add wood strip to double its thickness.
Maybe you have already posted this, but I'll ask anyway. Do you have any pics of the handcrank system?
 
RyanOBrian1 said:
I'm going to resurrect this old thread rather create a new one... does anyone know what size crossbars to use?
Our Hawk is 80" wide, FWIW.
Pretty sure our recycled bars are very close to same width, wouldn't want them hanging out any farther.
 

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