Engel refrigerators and solar systems.

I currently have a 3.0 cu. ft. 3-way refrigerator in my Hawk. In the future, I may wish to replace that with an Engel front opening DC refrigerator. The largest one they make right now is only 60 qts....which is about 2/3's the size of my current unit. The Engel web site says the maximum current draw is 3 amps. What I don't know is how often the unit requires the maximum current draw.

Only folks with Engel refrigerators and solar systems would know the real-world performance of solar systems while running DC refrigerators.

My current set up is a solar system with 120 watt panel, MPPT controller and one 100 AH battery. Is it reasonable to believe that the 120 watt system will keep up with the DC refrigerator with enough left over for running lights and furnace?

I've heard estimates on both ends of the spectrum....one post said that a 200+ watt solar system was necessary to run a DC refrigerator....and another said that only a 65 watt system would be necessary.

Any one out there running a DC refrigerator with a solar system?

With 75w and 2 pretty crappy batteries I kept my Coleman Stirling fridge happy. Very little other draws, I use LED and a Wave 3 for heat.

I currently have a 3.0 cu. ft. 3-way refrigerator in my Hawk. In the future, I may wish to replace that with an Engel front opening DC refrigerator. The largest one they make right now is only 60 qts....which is about 2/3's the size of my current unit. The Engel web site says the maximum current draw is 3 amps. What I don't know is how often the unit requires the maximum current draw.

Only folks with Engel refrigerators and solar systems would know the real-world performance of solar systems while running DC refrigerators.

My current set up is a solar system with 120 watt panel, MPPT controller and one 100 AH battery. Is it reasonable to believe that the 120 watt system will keep up with the DC refrigerator with enough left over for running lights and furnace?

I've heard estimates on both ends of the spectrum....one post said that a 200+ watt solar system was necessary to run a DC refrigerator....and another said that only a 65 watt system would be necessary.

Any one out there running a DC refrigerator with a solar system?

I currently have a 3.0 cu. ft. 3-way refrigerator in my Hawk. In the future, I may wish to replace that with an Engel front opening DC refrigerator. The largest one they make right now is only 60 qts....which is about 2/3's the size of my current unit. The Engel web site says the maximum current draw is 3 amps. What I don't know is how often the unit requires the maximum current draw.

Only folks with Engel refrigerators and solar systems would know the real-world performance of solar systems while running DC refrigerators.

My current set up is a solar system with 120 watt panel, MPPT controller and one 100 AH battery. Is it reasonable to believe that the 120 watt system will keep up with the DC refrigerator with enough left over for running lights and furnace?

I've heard estimates on both ends of the spectrum....one post said that a 200+ watt solar system was necessary to run a DC refrigerator....and another said that only a 65 watt system would be necessary.

Any one out there running a DC refrigerator with a solar system?


I have a Engel 45 quart and a 65 watt solar panel with one 75 amp hr battery. I have had no problems with it keeping the Engle going on a fridge setting of 34 degrees. I do usually have good daytime sun where I usually go and have done up to 5 days without moving. If you are going to run the furnace as well you might want to add an additional battery. My Engel usually runs about 20 minutes per hour on 90 to 100 degree days. If I run the furnace most of the night the battery will be about 50% discharged in the morning. I don't have many other loads, just led lights.
Dsrtrat

I have a Engel 45 quart and a 65 watt solar panel with one 75 amp hr battery. I have had no problems with it keeping the Engle going on a fridge setting of 34 degrees. I do usually have good daytime sun where I usually go and have done up to 5 days without moving. If you are going to run the furnace as well you might want to add an additional battery. My Engel usually runs about 20 minutes per hour on 90 to 100 degree days. If I run the furnace most of the night the battery will be about 50% discharged in the morning. I don't have many other loads, just led lights.
Dsrtrat



what is your definition of %50 discharge? based on the monitoring panel? voltmenter?

what is your definition of %50 discharge? based on the monitoring panel? voltmenter?


I installed a panel mounted voltmeter and use 12.06 volts as a baseline for my 50% discharge. I try not to discharge my battery below 12.02 volts. I find with good sun that after a full day charging the battery is pretty well topped up.
I don't stress too much about getting the perfect charge but the Interstate DCM 0075 that came with the camper is now 4 years old and hasn't failed yet.
If you are going to do solar you need to isolate the voltmeter from the solar panel or check voltages with the solar panel shaded to get an accurate reading.

I relocated the battery to under the hood of the truck and made provisions to add an additional battery in the camper. I may do this when it is time for a battery replacement.
Dsrtrat

leadsled,

I received my solar panel , charge controller, and have not hooked it up yet. I also have the DC Engel fridge. The Engel folks said an 80watt panle will be enough to keep the fridge running.

We unfortunately do not have the solar pre-wiring, so I have not tackled the solar mount and wiring yet....

Any suggestions?????

I installed a panel mounted voltmeter and use 12.06 volts as a baseline for my 50% discharge. I try not to discharge my battery below 12.02 volts. I find with good sun that after a full day charging the battery is pretty well topped up.
I don't stress too much about getting the perfect charge but the Interstate DCM 0075 that came with the camper is now 4 years old and hasn't failed yet.
If you are going to do solar you need to isolate the voltmeter from the solar panel or check voltages with the solar panel shaded to get an accurate reading.

I relocated the battery to under the hood of the truck and made provisions to add an additional battery in the camper. I may do this when it is time for a battery replacement.
Dsrtrat



thanks for the answer.

leadsled,

I received my solar panel , charge controller, and have not hooked it up yet. I also have the DC Engel fridge. The Engel folks said an 80watt panle will be enough to keep the fridge running.

We unfortunately do not have the solar pre-wiring, so I have not tackled the solar mount and wiring yet....

Any suggestions?????


I wired my solar using 10 gauge, 2 conductor cable from Arizona Wind and Sun. They have everything you need to do the install, weatherproof cable connectors, fuse holders, etc. I would suggest you use a wiring harness with disconnecting connectors for ease of installation.

I drilled a hole through the roof in the area where the panel is mounted (in my case in the front) so the opening is somewhat protected from the weather by the panel. I used a small stainless vent cover that I bought at a marine supply store to help weatherproof the hole in the roof. I bent the cable 90 degrees and filled the cavity of the vent with high grade caulk. I used pop rivits to mount the vent to the roof material. No leaks so far.

I made some mounts using 1X1 inch tubing from the rack I removed and used the existing screws to mount the tubing to the roof. I pre wired the panel before mounting and made brackets to hold it to the tubing.
I ran the 2 conductor cable down the corner and across the front of the camper behind the end piece. I then routed it to the battery area fastening it with small clamps.

I made a plastic shield to close the gap between the camper top and the panel to prevent tree limbs and such from getting between the roof and panel when off road.

Make sure you mount the panel where you can reach it to clean it, dust and dirt will cut down on the output.

Dsrtrat

leadsled,

I received my solar panel , charge controller, and have not hooked it up yet. I also have the DC Engel fridge. The Engel folks said an 80watt panle will be enough to keep the fridge running.

We unfortunately do not have the solar pre-wiring, so I have not tackled the solar mount and wiring yet....

Any suggestions?????



randygirl,

Glad to hear you received your solar equipment. The install is very straight forward and not difficult at all. Just take your time and do things right. The hardest part for you will be running the wiring from the roof to below the cabinets for the panel. It sounds like Dsrtrat has given you some good information about running your wiring to the roof.

Controller:
I can't remember if you bought the same controller as mine (MorningStar SunSaver SS-MPPT-15), if so then here are some things to consider. I mounted mine behind the panelling where FWC mounts their controllers during factory installs. This will mean you cannot see the controller and will have no idea what is going on with your system. If you are mounting your controller behind the cabinets you will need to get the remote mount meter. I would also suggest you get the remote mount temperature sensor too since the controller will not be mounted in the same location as your battery.

This controller has two terminals for a "load". In your case the "load" could be your Engel fridge.....as long as the fridge doesn't exceed the 15 amp capacity of your controller. Having the fridge attached to the load would be nice since the "load" terminals can be programmed to disconnect in the event that your battery gets too low....and will re-connect once your battery regains voltage. Very handy. Be sure to install a fuse on the positive lead.

The next set of terminals is for the battery. Pretty much self explanatory....positive and negative connections. I would recommend 10 awg wire for this connection and be sure to install a fuse next to the battery on the positive lead.

The next set of terminals is for the solar panel. Pretty much self explanatory also..positive and negative connections. Although the instructions did not mention it... I am going to install a fuse on the panel wiring too.


Panel:
I would just use some "Z" feet (available at Solar Blvd) for mounting the panel to the roof. Use #10 sheet metal screws with a 1/8" pilot hole.....mount directly into the roof struts. You can see where the struts are located by looking at the screws currently in your roof. Seal the screws with silicone.


Wiring in general:
I am not satisfied with the crimp-on type connectors that most folks (and the FWC factory) uses. The standard crimp-on connector simply crimps on the wire and has a hard plastic ferrule. This leaves a lot of exposed wires for moisture collect which will eventually lead to corrosion and poor connections. These poor connections can creep up on you at any time and are sometimes difficult to track down. I prefer to use heavy duty heat shrink tubing that has a thick layer of hot melt glue inside....so when you heat it on the connection...the hot melt glue completely seals both ends of the connection keeping out moisture and dirt. I've used these on virtually all of my vehicle wiring jobs and have not had a single failure. Attached are some pictures showing a sample connection. Note the nice thick hot melt glue oozing out from the heat shrink. If the application is going to be subject to harsh weather I also solder the connections prior to heat shrinking them.

Leadsled & Dsrtrat,

Thank you for the details!! VEry informative.
I was planning on connecting everything that runs off battery to the load on my controller. I did get the same controller as you leadsled and also got the remote meter. I planned on mounting the controller in with my battery box. Since I am not pre wired, I can really run the wires wherever.

Sound like a decent plan??

Leadsled & Dsrtrat,

Thank you for the details!! VEry informative.
I was planning on connecting everything that runs off battery to the load on my controller. I did get the same controller as you leadsled and also got the remote meter. I planned on mounting the controller in with my battery box. Since I am not pre wired, I can really run the wires wherever.

Sound like a decent plan??


Sounds like a good plan to me. Just be certain that all of your devices hooked up to the "load" terminals do not exceed 15 amps. I like mounting my controller behind the cabinets because I store a bunch of stuff on top of the battery and didn't want to lose the storage space.

I don't think all my "loads" running together equal 15 amps. I do not have a furnace, so that is 1 big draw I won't be using. Just LED lites, fridge (Engel), water pump,fantastic fan, and maybe the laptop and/or cell phone plugged in. I think I will be good.

I have already written that space off for storage. There is also the surepower mounted by the battery, so I am just figuring on bringing less.

I'm sure there will be more questions.

Thanks so much

Randy

Randy,

The link to the $222 120 watt solar panel is no longer functional. I guess they sold the last two. That was a GREAT price for a 120 watt panel. I especially like the fact that it only weighs 20 lbs. All of the remaining panels in the 120 watt range are $400+.

I'm confused what the load terminals are. Do all the wires for the refer, vent fan, lights, etc just hook up to the battery terminals (or solar controller if used), or is there some sort of fuse box? Thanks.

In my camper (a 2002 Hawk) there is a fuse box. My load wires come from the fuse box and right now they go to the battery. When I hook up my charge controller the load wires will go into the controller then the controller is wired to the battery. So, in theory, if everything is wired correctly, all loads will go thru the controller.

That will give the most accurate reading on my remote battery moniter.

Hope this helps.

Also, there is a fuse between the load wires and the controller and there is also a fuse between the controller and the battery.

Randy,

The link to the $222 120 watt solar panel is no longer functional. I guess they sold the last two. That was a GREAT price for a 120 watt panel. I especially like the fact that it only weighs 20 lbs. All of the remaining panels in the 120 watt range are $400+.



Leadsled

Yes, I saw they were gone. Thanks for the heads up on that one. It stares at me every day waiting to get installed!!!

Randygirl, thanks for your reply. If you are powering three items (vent fan, refer, and lights) and each is wired seperately then there would be six wires terminating at the controller?

In my camper (a 2002 Hawk) there is a fuse box. My load wires come from the fuse box and right now they go to the battery. When I hook up my charge controller the load wires will go into the controller then the controller is wired to the battery. So, in theory, if everything is wired correctly, all loads will go thru the controller.


randygirl,

If your camper is wired the same as mine....I wouldn't rewire all of the accessories to run off the Load terminals. I would only run the DC fridge on the Load terminals.

The way the campers come wired from the factory, through the Iota DLS-30 is real handy. That way when you plug into shore power....the accessories are automatically run off of shore power and the camper battery gets charged.

Just my opinon...you can wire it however you want.

Rob iin MT and Leadsled,

Since I bought the camper used, I'm wondering if my wiring is different. Maybe the person I bought it from did some rewiring.

I wish I knew how to draw a diagram to show you my wiring.

From my IOTA I have 2 wires coming out that go to the battery. Between the battery and the IOTA the wires are spliced and also go to a fuse box. I was planning on taking the wires from the IOTA AFTER the fuse box and running them thru the controller. Those would be the wires that previously were straight to the battery. Then the battery will be wired to the controller, soin essence everything is wired thru the controller.

Hope I explained that well.

I am so incredibly confused right now.....

In my camper (a 2002 Hawk) there is a fuse box. My load wires come from the fuse box and right now they go to the battery. When I hook up my charge controller the load wires will go into the controller then the controller is wired to the battery. So, in theory, if everything is wired correctly, all loads will go thru the controller.

That will give the most accurate reading on my remote battery moniter.

Hope this helps.

Also, there is a fuse between the load wires and the controller and there is also a fuse between the controller and the battery.



I'm a bad electrician but this seems confusing. Shouldn't it just run solar panel to controller to battery, nothing else changes? The controller as I understand it merely controls/manages/optimizes the energy charge from the panels into the battery which everything continues to run off of.