Carrying a kayak WITHOUT a roof rack.

steve33

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Joined
May 20, 2017
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22
Would this sort of foam block set up, directly on the roof, be okay or would it have any chance of damaging the camper? My kayak is a whitewater boat, only weights roughly 30 pounds, maybe a 35 with some of the gear (throw rope, water bottle, yada yada) inside.

91psWLH77BL._SL1500_.jpg

I bought the camper used and it did not come with a rack or the yakima rails.

Thanks.
 
Without a rack to attach the tiedowns to it might be a problem.
I have a rack on my Bobcat and made a special "track" so I could carry a 13' fiberglass canoe about 60#.
That attached to the factory rack and worked well.
If you could figure some sort of "eye" bolt through the roof to attach the tiedowns to that might work,but that means going through the roof at the roof frame area.
The weight isn't an issue.
Frank
 
Thanks for that.

I figured I would tie down directly to the truck. Rear tie down to the trailer hitch. Front either to under the hood (not ideal) or maybe better wrap around the front of the camper and underneath and down to the truck bed. Would have to detach to lift camper roof- bit of a pain maybe.
 
That would be a bit of a pain.
Maybe the idea of 4 "eye" bolts through a roof frame and sealed well might be a better solution.
Or make a factory style roof rack.
Using just the front bar style,front/rear.
Good luck.
Frank
 
I've used something like that on my old '72 Ford Bronco. Home made and worked well, however, I did tie the kayaks to the front bumper, as well as the gutter tie downs that I made.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

For the pop-up truck camper, I use this bracket that I bolted through the "C" channel that goes around the cab-over section of the front of my All Terrain Camper Bobcat. Very sturdy. FWC's are built the same.

I just leave the kayaks attached to the tie down strap and remove the tie down strap from the bracket to raise the roof. I do have the gas shock lifters and often use the crank up speaker stand to raise the roof with up to 4 kayaks on the roof.

I do have the Yakama track and the two Thule racks that I use to tie down the other areas of the kayaks with nothing holding the rear of the kayaks. I've probably done about 40,000 miles this way on various pavements at slightly lower than freeway speeds and lots and lots of dirt roads of various conditions. I usually drive slow, I'm in no hurry, ever.

One bracket in the front would work. And, you may think about using two of them on each side of the camper, for a total of five brackets.

img_171707_1_1ee0a8dab63d906ce3e04146cf574084.jpg


I had to buy 10 of these brackets and I think I have maybe half of them left in the garage after selling a couple to other WTW forum members. It may take a little time to locate them as the garage is in a state of disarray thanks to a recently evicted brother-in-law.

They were $5 each, and I can probably ship up to 5 of them for another $7.
If you want any, just let me know how many.
Unless you're in a hurry, I prefer to receive a check or postal money order in the mail.
We can do the address exchange via a Private Message.

Or, see what you can find on the internet that might do the same type of job.
 
That's a great suggestion. Thanks.

I don't have the gas struts and my FWC does have the threaded receivers for the struts. I wonder if I could run a bar between those two spots, bolted to the gas strut locations, and use that for tiedowns. Could do front and rear.

Come to think of it, if I used the threaded receivers on the top of the camper (ie on the pop top) I would not have to take the straps off to raise the roof.

Hmmm....
 
Might work, however, I'd say ask FWC about the shear strength of using those mounts.
Some FWC guys (only a few, I think have mentioned it on WTW) are seeing tear-outs of the screws in normal use of the gas shocks.

Lots of wind pressure on anything mounted to the top and tied down to the camper.
I'd want do a through bolt on the "C" channel.
Maybe those gas shock, threaded receivers can be done that way?

EDIT: OK, now that I think about it, the top of the gas shock threaded brackets are screwed into the edge of the roof, where you can't easily get access on the inside of the camper to do a through bolt because of the headliner material. Check with FWC about using them for the purpose you are thinking about. My guess is don't do it that way.
 
Howdy

If your camper has the corner jack brackets how about just adapting a kayak stacker to them ?

Maybe best on the passenger side of rig.

Carrying on the side would make loading and such much easier.

I see surf boards and fold boats carried this way a lot in our area.

Not sure whether you want to carry the kayak hundreds of miles or just to your local lake.

David Graves
 
Lots of miles/trips. It's a white water boat so probably a bit to deep to stack on the side of a vehicle I'm afraid.

Good tips on the strut mounts. I'll have a look and make some inquiries.
 
Totally off the top of my head but David says the jack brackets are your strong points.... If you made a clamping set-up from there that swiveled over half the roof... you could carry and still pop up after unloading. Would take good engineering but ....where there is a will...
 
Yeah, that's a interesting idea.
Load the kayak in the down position secure it to the rotatable rack device and then rotate the rack device up on the roof and secure the rack. I'd still want a tie down to the front of the vehicle somewhere.
Only downside was when the camper top is UP, then the rack has to be rotated DOWN. Be careful when walking around the camper at night. Maybe have the vertical part of the rack device slide out longer so that it could then rotate up and above the top when it is up?
 
Pulled the plastic threaded plugs out of the roof strut mount locations. They seem fairly beefy. It would be easy enough to replace them with a pair of eye bolts (probably on the lower mounts, the ones on the camper, vs the roof, for security) as tie in points for the kayak. If I had snap links on the straps it'd be a fairly easy matter to release them to put the roof up, even if the kayak was still sitting up there. I think.
 
Rethinking this whole thing. May try to install the yakima tracks. Because of the ceiling vent I would only be able to fit one boat with this system and might need to transport other folks kayaks when shuttling. Still will need a tie down but... yeah... might have to bite the bullet and install the yakima tracks and a rack. Hopefully I'll find some how-to threads on here about that. Nothing quite like drilling holes in your camper roof....
 
The Yakima racks are the way to go.

The whole roof system is an engineered product....meaning strong but fragile....not much overstrength.

This makes it light and easy to lift while strong enough for road travel and heavy weather.

It really isn't made for slepping heavy loads.

The Yakima tracks, properly installed , distribute weight about as well as one can.

Good luck with your kayaks.

David Graves
 
Alley-Kat said:
I've used something like that on my old '72 Ford Bronco. Home made and worked well, however, I did tie the kayaks to the front bumper, as well as the gutter tie downs that I made.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - -

For the pop-up truck camper, I use this bracket that I bolted through the "C" channel that goes around the cab-over section of the front of my All Terrain Camper Bobcat. Very sturdy. FWC's are built the same.

I just leave the kayaks attached to the tie down strap and remove the tie down strap from the bracket to raise the roof. I do have the gas shock lifters and often use the crank up speaker stand to raise the roof with up to 4 kayaks on the roof.

I do have the Yakama track and the two Thule racks that I use to tie down the other areas of the kayaks with nothing holding the rear of the kayaks. I've probably done about 40,000 miles this way on various pavements at slightly lower than freeway speeds and lots and lots of dirt roads of various conditions. I usually drive slow, I'm in no hurry, ever.

One bracket in the front would work. And, you may think about using two of them on each side of the camper, for a total of five brackets.

img_171768_5_1ee0a8dab63d906ce3e04146cf574084.jpg


I had to buy 10 of these brackets and I think I have maybe half of them left in the garage after selling a couple to other WTW forum members. It may take a little time to locate them as the garage is in a state of disarray thanks to a recently evicted brother-in-law.

They were $5 each, and I can probably ship up to 5 of them for another $7.
If you want any, just let me know how many.
Unless you're in a hurry, I prefer to receive a check or postal money order in the mail.
We can do the address exchange via a Private Message.

Or, see what you can find on the internet that might do the same type of job.
Mr. Kat, any chance you recall the source for those brackets? They look handy!
 
DavidGraves said:
The Yakima racks are the way to go.

The whole roof system is an engineered product....meaning strong but fragile....not much overstrength.

This makes it light and easy to lift while strong enough for road travel and heavy weather.

It really isn't made for slepping heavy loads.

The Yakima tracks, properly installed , distribute weight about as well as one can.

Good luck with your kayaks.

David Graves
Good points. Now I just need to find info or a thread about how to mount them.
 
Yeah, I think I can find the source for them, however, they only sell them in packs of 10.
Do you need 10 of them?

Or, do you want me to look in my garage to see if I can find the ones I haven't sold to anyone else?
My cost was $5 each, and I'll sell them for that + shipping (priority mail, small box, between $6 - $7, I think).
 
Over time, I may be able to find a use for 10 of the varmints. In addition to the Bobcat, they look like a handy way to secure load straps in a pickup bed.
 

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