Regearing your Tacoma

Anchored nomad

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Anyone regeared their Tacoma in order for a better drive? Read online recently that someone suggested not even considering buying a FWC until their Tacoma is re-geared. Personally, I thought that was a bit crazy.

Have any of you actually done this or even felt the need to?
 
Depends on the year of the truck and auto or manual trans. I have a 17 Tacoma TRD OffRoad Auto trans and re-geared to 4.88’s...I cant imagine driving with the camper on the back and stock gearing. Even with the re-gear and 33” tires I still wish it was a tad lower, I’ll be installing the Orange Virus tune on the truck soon that will fix the rest of the factory shift point issues, that combined with the gears should make a awesome combo with the FWC.

Hodakaguy
 
Hodakaguy said:
Depends on the year of the truck and auto or manual trans. I have a 17 Tacoma TRD OffRoad Auto trans and re-geared to 4.88’s...I cant imagine driving with the camper on the back and stock gearing. Even with the re-gear and 33” tires I still wish it was a tad lower, I’ll be installing the Orange Virus tune on the truck soon that will fix the rest of the factory shift point issues, that combined with the gears should make a awesome combo with the FWC.

Hodakaguy
Can you describe the difference when driving between the stock gearing and the 4.88? I’m on a 2017 dual cab long bed with Fleet shell and the only things I hate are the transmission constantly hunting and the MPG.

Wondering if regearing and a custom transfer tank are in my future...
 
I also just regeared my 2009 Tacoma, also went with 4.88. Drives and feels much better at lower speeds and on the hills. Don't really like it as well at 70 mph, keep it about 65 and it's fine, just has those higher RPM's. It always felt like it was lugging with the stock gearing. At 50 mph and below I seem to get better mileage than before. Ron
 
The 4.88’s defiantly helped the gear hunting, it’s still there but not as prevalent as before and much more enjoyable to drive. It also eliminated the boggy feeling in the pedal when accelerating from a stop and makes 6th gear actually usable on the highway. At 70 mph I’m now turning about 2100 rpm, not to high at all. My father is getting 18mpg with his truck (same setup, 4.88’s and 33” tires) and I’m getting around 15.5mpg with mine with the FWC swift on the back. I just ordered the Orange Virus tune which retunes both the engine and transmission, from all reports I’m expecting a nice performance boost and smooth shifting from the remapped shifting program. With my larger 33” tires I look at the re-gear as a must and would strongly recommend it for any 2016 and up Tacoma’s as they come from the factory with way to tall of overall gearing. 4.88’s are an ideal match for 2016 and up automatic trucks, 2016 and down have lower overall factory gearing so a higher gear ratio may be a better match for those trucks.
 
I have a 2010 with a Fleet and have no issues with the stock gearing. Plus I have slightly oversized tires and don't notice any penalty.
 
Hello czuki
Im sure you know that the gear ratio on your vehicle was calculated based on several things by the manufacturer.
Fuel economy, tire size, transmission gearing, engine size, load rating are what come to mind. When you operate your vehicle and lets say you are at on around it fully loaded capacity you wil notice that it labors more than when it is say just you and a tank of gas. I would venture to say your truck gearing leans more towards fuel economy. Some manufacturers will change the gear ratio in the differential so that vehicle can tow more or have a higher cargo rating. ( most likely the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks)
If you have an automatic transmission it will shift the transmission so the engine rpm will be where it needs to be to move the vehicle along. Overdrive becomes unusable most of the time when loaded. When you put your camper on the truck and leave everything else the same but change the gear ratio lower, ( numerically higher) you will move the motor rpm higher in each gear, making it easier to to move your load down the road.
Most of the time gear ratios are changed because the owner has increased the tire size so much that the vehicle motor seems under powered and labors to move down the road, which is what Hodakaguy did with his rig. Changing gear ratios so with the new tire size, to put the motor rpm back to OEM specs.
Let's say you don't want to change the tires but want to be able to drive around with your camper, and it be closer to what it's like without all that weight. You can can change the gearing and get what you want, the truck will be real quick with out the camper on, the motor rpm's will be higher and fuel mileage will suffer some. These new vehicles with their computers, control a lot of how the vehicle operates, hence the Orange Virus tune.
Try it stock first see how it is, you can always change gears. Hope this helps to answer some questions you might have, remember there is no perfect world out there, always trade offs.

Russ
 
Not sure if the OP is happy with these insightful responses but I’m thrilled!

I didn’t care for the stock transmission shift points on my 2017 DCLB when I picked it up and I find it monopolizes my driving experience with the addition of the Fleet and larger tires. Not sure what ECT even stands for but I sure as heck know I need it for day to day driving!

Downsides to the 4.88 gearing besides cost? I usually drive 65 on the highway already and I am in the right lane in most circumstances.
 
One downside is a weaker differential. To increase the numerical ratio (i.e. lower the gearing) the pinion gear must be made smaller in diameter. The current Tacoma rear diff is quite strong, but a smaller pinion gear is weaker than a larger one; simple physics. Larger tires put more stress on the driveline and the diff especially, as well.

I doubt you'll see improved fuel economy, although I can't guarantee that.

ECT stands for electronically controlled transmission.
 
That’s funny JHanson
I was gunna say electronic control traction but I don’t know would have to read the owners manual. Down side is make sure whom ever puts the gears in knows what they are doing. Get a guarantee from shop. I prefer a drive line shop where pretty much all they do is that aspect of the vehicle. Yes when you do after market stuff to your rig you can find the next weak link.

Russ
 
JHanson said:
One downside is a weaker differential. To increase the numerical ratio (i.e. lower the gearing) the pinion gear must be made smaller in diameter. The current Tacoma rear diff is quite strong, but a smaller pinion gear is weaker than a larger one; simple physics. Larger tires put more stress on the driveline and the diff especially, as well.

I doubt you'll see improved fuel economy, although I can't guarantee that.

ECT stands for electronically controlled transmission

That's true...but that also doesn't mean that the 4.88's are weak by any means. There are lots of them out there right now being used hard without failure.

Hodakaguy
 
Hay Hodakaguy guy which vendor did you go with for the gears, also how did you go about finding a shop to do the work. I think you pulled the third member and outsourced that. That info might help the OP. Thanks for the correction on the ECT.
Regarding the fuel mileage not sure how you can carry the weight of a camper and get what the truck gets empty which ever gears you got.

Will your programmer allow you to set shift points, or how does that work.

Russ
 
I flogged a set of 4.88's in a Toyota 8" diff for ~130k miles before a bad wheel bearing damaged the Detroit beyond repair and it was less expensive to buy a whole, set-up diff from Marlin than it was to R&R the damaged Detroit. I put another ~5k on that diff before selling the truck. The physics might be indisputable, but the reality is that it doesn't matter.
 
CougarCouple said:
Hay Hodakaguy guy which vendor did you go with for the gears, also how did you go about finding a shop to do the work. I think you pulled the third member and outsourced that. That info might help the OP. Thanks for the correction on the ECT.
Regarding the fuel mileage not sure how you can carry the weight of a camper and get what the truck gets empty which ever gears you got.

Will your programmer allow you to set shift points, or how does that work.

Russ
CougarCouple said:
Hay Hodakaguy guy which vendor did you go with for the gears, also how did you go about finding a shop to do the work. I think you pulled the third member and outsourced that. That info might help the OP. Thanks for the correction on the ECT.
Regarding the fuel mileage not sure how you can carry the weight of a camper and get what the truck gets empty which ever gears you got.

Will your programmer allow you to set shift points, or how does that work.

Russ
I ordered my gears through SDHQ and had a local shop "JustDifferentials" install them for me. Turns out Nitro Gears are theirs so I could have just purchased the gears directly through JT. Yeah I pulled the rear 3rd member and front diff and took them over to JT. You can also order a pre-built unit from ECGS and just swap yours out with them, it would be a good time saver. Here's a link to ECGS: CLICK HERE

On MPG....With 225 miles on this tank and all in town driving I'm sitting at 16.1mpg, I can actually get better gas mileage in town than on the freeway due to the wind resistance of the camper. On the highway I'm seeing around 14.5-15mpg on average with the camper. My father has the identical setup as me and is getting 18mpg with his setup, I usually average a tad higher than my dad based on driving habits. Once I remove the camper from mine I'll be able to see what kind of MPG I get unloaded with the 4.88's.

The Orange Virus tune will re-calibrate the shift points along with the engine tune, it's pre-set from OV as far as I'm aware. Feedback from those running the OV tune has been really good, can't wait to try it out.

Hodakaguy
 
HG thanks for the response, you camper setup is real nice, for getting of the beaten path. Looking forward to hear how the tuner works out.

Russ
 
ntsqd said:
I flogged a set of 4.88's in a Toyota 8" diff for ~130k miles before a bad wheel bearing damaged the Detroit beyond repair and it was less expensive to buy a whole, set-up diff from Marlin than it was to R&R the damaged Detroit. I put another ~5k on that diff before selling the truck. The physics might be indisputable, but the reality is that it doesn't matter.
The reality is, every step down in gearing you take, especially if you are compensating for larger, heavier tires, does matter. Sure, people get away with unwise combinations all the time, and 4.88s with reasonably sized tires is not as radical a setup as I've seen. But you are putting additional stress on your driveline, period. I've seen numerous diffs blown from regearing when combined with silly tires. Then you add the weight of the camper. Every such step adds up. It's just smart to be smart about modifications, I'm sure you'd agree.
 
If you are going to run larger tires (33" in my case) then re-gearing will actually reduce stress on the drive train during most driving conditions, certain 4x4 low speed conditions take some extra care so you don't overload the diff when on rocks/mud etc. Larger tires and stock gearing will put the engine and transmission way under the designed torque curve, rod load in the engine will go way up as it tries to deal with the additional load at lower RPM's. Changing the gearing allows the engine to run back in the proper RPM/torque curve and engine rod load will drop back down. Depending on the overall ratio of the truck this problem can be slightly better or worse. On the 2016 and up Tacoma's with automatic transmissions they come from the factory with overall gearing that is WAYYYY to high, making 6th gear hard to use even with stock tires. Lower gears really benefits these trucks.

A good way to look at it is a 10 speed bike, try starting off from a stop with a 10 speed bicycle in high gear, it's very difficult at low RPM and your legs (Your power train) will have a lot of stress on them until the bike gets up to speed, this is basically the condition with stock gearing and larger tires. Re-gear by selecting a lower gear and taking off from a stop is now easier on the drive train.

Hodakaguy
 
Hodakaguy, let's start from the beginning, okay? By installing larger tires—even though 33s are far from crazy—you are putting extra stress on the driveline and many other components. Those tires are heavier and their rotational inertia is higher than the stock tires. Braking distances will be longer, the suspension will have to work harder, and stresses on axles, differentials, CV joints, etc. will rise. Simple, inarguable physics. If you re-gear to compensate for the poorer acceleration and non-ideal engine revolutions at selected speeds, you are weakening the differential after you have put extra stress on it with the larger tires. Again, inarguable physics. One can argue all day long whether or not the Tacoma drivetrain is strong enough to withstand this—and in the majority of cases it is, especially the post 2011 rear diffs—but you are putting more stress on it, period. Rod load is less of a worry than diff load. I don't remember the last time I heard of a Tacoma engine failing due to rod load, but I've seen plenty with blown diffs and CV joints.

There is a predictable ascending curve of driveline failures if you track those owners who go beyond 4.56 or 4.88 gears into the fives, while mounting 35-inch or larger tires and maybe adding wheel spacers for good measure.

Obviously it's the owner's choice as to how to modify a vehicle. But it should be done with knowledge of the potential downsides. I come at this from the perspective of a long-distance traveler, often in remote areas. Vast experience of those more experienced than I has shown that the further you move away from the factory setup, the more you compromise reliability.
 
JHanson said:
Hodakaguy, let's start from the beginning, okay? By installing larger tires—even though 33s are far from crazy—you are putting extra stress on the driveline and many other components. Those tires are heavier and their rotational inertia is higher than the stock tires. Braking distances will be longer, the suspension will have to work harder, and stresses on axles, differentials, CV joints, etc. will rise. Simple, inarguable physics. If you re-gear to compensate for the poorer acceleration and non-ideal engine revolutions at selected speeds, you are weakening the differential after you have put extra stress on it with the larger tires. Again, inarguable physics. One can argue all day long whether or not the Tacoma drivetrain is strong enough to withstand this—and in the majority of cases it is, especially the post 2011 rear diffs—but you are putting more stress on it, period. Rod load is less of a worry than diff load. I don't remember the last time I heard of a Tacoma engine failing due to rod load, but I've seen plenty with blown diffs and CV joints.

There is a predictable ascending curve of driveline failures if you track those owners who go beyond 4.56 or 4.88 gears into the fives, while mounting 35-inch or larger tires and maybe adding wheel spacers for good measure.

Obviously it's the owner's choice as to how to modify a vehicle. But it should be done with knowledge of the potential downsides. I come at this from the perspective of a long-distance traveler, often in remote areas. Vast experience of those more experienced than I has shown that the further you move away from the factory setup, the more you compromise reliability.
Agreed, but 33" tires and 4.88's are well withing the reliability realm of modern Tacoma's, That being said how a person uses the vehicle will be the largest factor. Reliability is high on my list as well as I often roam far from the beaten path. Some stuff like increased wear on shocks is all part of the game for me and even then it’s minimal. I also don't always agree that stock is always best...plenty of "Stock" items can be upgraded for increased reliability.

Hodakaguy
 

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