Using a pro audio adj speaker stand to raise your roof

I have made this post on other threads and was asked to create a new topic to make available to a larger audience. This video shows how you can easily lift your FWC roof with a pro audio adjustable speaker stand and a power drill:


The stand can be purchased at http://m.guitarcenter.com/Item/Default.aspx?itemno=1170318&urx=1 Guitar Center for $84.49. All I did was remove the tripod and used some of the tripod foot pads on the ends of the pole. I bought mine 2 1/2 years ago and I think that I drilled out rivets holding the tripod on. The tripod gets in the way and is not important. I don’t have the shock lifter struts and only use the speaker stand. That said, I have never had anything on the roof so I’m unsure how the speaker stand would do on a loaded roof. My guess is that if you raise the roof when it’s loaded, you might need both the shocks and the speaker stand or just a little muscle.
You may notice at the end of the video my mounting method for the pole. I purchased the holding clips at:
Duckworks - PO Box 10 - Harper, TX 78631
Fax: 8308644197

Seadog Rubber Pole Storage Clips


ORDERED ITEMS:
SD-491353 - 1-1/2 inch Rubber Pole Storage Clips
Qty: 2 at $1.89 ................................................ $3.78


CHARGES:
Total: $3.78
Choose Correct Region for Shipping/Handling: USA $5.50
Sales Tax: $0.00
Grand Total: ................................................... $9.28

On other important note in using the speaker stand. Always ensure you place it on the cross beam close to the frame (where you see two screws). I've read posts where someone placed it in the middle (between the mounting locations) and cracked their beam. In the video you may notice that I have mounted square plates on the two beams with a pole hole. You don't need these, but if you don't have them make sure you hold the pole steady. I actually got these from FWC when I was visiting their factory and they noticed I had the stand. Not sure if they still have any. I've seen other posts where people used closet pole holders similar to http://www.goodwoodinc.com/data/subcategorythumbnails/21.jpg

Sorry, Bob, I can't get your first two links to work--Guitar Center and Duckworks.

I think since I used Word to compile multiple posts it inserted the wrong html codes. Should work now

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BobM said:

I think since I used Word to compile multiple posts it inserted the wrong html codes. Should work now

Click to expand...

Thanks, Bob. They do.

Thanks for posting this. Since I added my Yakima crossbars and kaya saddles/hully rollers to my new Eagle it was almost impossible for me to lift the top even with gas struts, but the speaker stand works a treat. Price has gone up to $100, but I'm sure my back surgeon would agree it was money well spent.

The only thing that worries me with this set up for my wife to lift the top is that she would forget to unlatch the roof. I could see me getting to the camper and I would have a top that is all messed up.

Having missed a latch already I can tell you it is pretty obvious when that happens.

I have too but a woman that has a power tool might not

Haven't tried mine with a drill, just the hand crank so far.

Go for the drill. If you are worried about your wife get one with a clutch setting and set it low enough. Before I wired my old drill to the 12 volt outlet I used a cheap B&D cordless drill with the small wall charger. It worked OK but was slower than my new setup. One recommendation for using a drill is get one of those drill sockets the size of where you hook up a drill. I wish I thought of that because the drill chuck can wear it out. I'm using the socket now, plus it's easier to remove the drill motor from the stand.

This is an example of the socket, just pick the correct size.
http://www.saveaload.com/images/drill-socket.jpg

I was going to try the drill but it was so quick to hand crank it it was easier than going into my garage to get the drill. I will certainly give the drill a go, though.

Bob, I'm curious if you removed the stop in the speaker stand shaft so it will retract even more? Mine's just a bit too long to fit easily when lifting the front of the camper. I made a couple of boards with 2" holes to put on the top boards but didn't install the front one since it would make it harder to get the lift in place.

No, my stop is still in but I lift from the floor so I have to extend the pole a lot before it reaches the roof.

I lift from the floor in back but had't tried from the floor in front, seems like too much of an angle. Your video shows you putting it on the cabinet over the water tank in front is why I asked.

I should have paid attention (front), I lift from the bench over the water. Maybe yours is a little higher than the Raven. I wouldn't remove the stop. You might consider sawing a little off the end.

Thanks, I think I have a pipe cutter around somewhere. I'll see how much extra length I have in back so I don't cut too much.

Stalking Light said:

Thanks, I think I have a pipe cutter around somewhere. I'll see how much extra length I have in back so I don't cut too much.

Click to expand...

Charlie, I made another cross piece that I put against the ceiling when I use the lift on the forward end, but I think I am going to cut down the lift, then insert one of the tripod legs (assuming reasonable fit) into the pipe. It will have a long, and short position so that it is easy for both the fore and aft lift points.

Cut an inch off mine and it works fine front and back.

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