Another thermostat thread

DesertDave

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
292
Location
Dayton NV
I was pretty happy with the thermostat that came with my 2014 FWC, digital and simple to operate.
Photo of thermo

Link to thermo http://smile.amazon.com/White-Rodgers-1E78-140-Emerson-Non-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B00204WWGE/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420504909&sr=1-5&keywords=non-programmable+digital+thermostat

But after my last trip I decided I wanted a 'freeze protect' function, ie, a 35 degree low set point. The factory one has a 45 degree low point setting. I also wanted to have it work in the same spot as the factory one, and have a digital readout. That eliminated the ones I checked that others have recommended - they were either not available, were horizontal rather than vertical, or they were of the older slider control style.

I did find this one http://smile.amazon.com/FS1500VL-SentryTM-Thermostat-Single-Stage-Heating/dp/B004051LFY/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420506751&sr=1-4&keywords=garage+thermostat

And I ordered it, and received and installed it just now. I found it cheaper than via Amazon, at least the day I ordered it.

Here's how the factory stat was wired.

They had the blue wire connected to 'RC', and the white wire connected to 'W', with the standard (according to the stat literature) jumper between RC and RH.

Here's what the mounting area looks like.
gallery_5315_768_3443862.jpg

Notice the largish opening in the cabinet, which would allow the inside cabinet temps to factor into the temp readings and operating performance of the furnace. Not saying it's good or bad, it just is.

Here's the new stat installed.


The new stat has a neoprene panel on the back to insulate it from the cabinet face, and it seals around the two wires that enter it. I think this will allow it to respond more correctly to the air temperature and be less affected by the temps in the cabinet. This could reduce the issue that some have mentioned where the air in the camper gets really hot before the thermostat reacts, when heating up a very cold camper the first time. I was also pleased that the mounting holes matched the originals exactly - I reused the factory screws to mount it, no new holes.

Here's a shot showing the low set point and backlight
gallery_5315_768_5228451.jpg

And here's some info printed on the box
gallery_5315_768_220724.jpg


I connected the white wire to 'W' and the blue wire to 'R' on the new stat. I left the sensitivity at the default of one degree ( it can be raised up to 3 degrees if desired) and left the default setting at 'electric' instead of switching it to the 'gas/oil' setting. It tested out per the booklet. If I find it cycles too much for my preferences I can change the sensitivity, and I also think that the gas/oil setting allows for fewer cycles per hour also, vs. the electric setting, but I am not 100% sure on that.

Maybe this will be useful for someone.

My intent going forward would be to set the furnace at 35 degres when I go to bed, if there's any chance it will get seriously cold overnight. No more faucet icicles in the morning. I also thought if I were going to travel through an area (or camp awhile) where it would be below freezing for many hours I might turn on the furnace while traveling, just to protect the water systems in the camper.
 
Nice DesertDave,

My thoughts about a replacement thermostat are the same as yours. I like the idea of being able to set it very low at night just in case. Thanks for posting this. I will stare at it on the web for a day or two and then order one. It sounds perfect.

Steve
 
I also like the low set point. We replaced ours with one that goes to 40. Had not seen one that goes to 35 like this. And never saw one with an adjustable sensitivity. That would lead to less cycles at night. Really like that feature. Thanks DesertDave. This is the best thermostat replacement I have seen.
 
Mine is set for 40 degrees at night, as low as it goes. This works for me, if I had one that went to 35 degrees I would need to get up more at night. The wife would have me turn the heater on somewhere between 40 and 35 degrees so I sleep more with a 40 degrees setting.
 
If the factory one went down to 40 I am pretty sure I would have been happy enough and never bothered to change it. Set at 45 just seemed too warm for freeze protection and more than needed for sleeping comfort.

There sure are a lot of options available if you didn't limit yourself to a vertical orientation and a 35 degree setpoint. It's all a matter of degrees.
 
I wouldn't say easy to find. When I was looking they were out there but definitely uncommon.
 
Thanks for this post, getting ready to install this same unit in our '12 Granby.
 
Thanks for posting! I'm looking too and started another thread so as not to poach this one. Have you used it yet in cold weather? Does it maintain relatively consistent temp?
 
eyemgh said:
Thanks for posting! I'm looking too and started another thread so as not to poach this one. Have you used it yet in cold weather? Does it maintain relatively consistent temp?
I bought two of these thermostats in the OPs post, one for my shop running a pellet stove and one for the camper to replace the OEM analog White/Rodgers. I'm tickled to death with the performance in both applications. I set the one in the shop at 40 for freeze protection and when I come out in the morning it's just above 40 and the pellet stove is still warm.

I hooked the one up in the camper and tested it on a couple cold mornings (>30) setting it to 50 and it worked like a champ. Would buy again.
 
BobD said:
I bought two of these thermostats in the OPs post, one for my shop running a pellet stove and one for the camper to replace the OEM analog White/Rodgers. I'm tickled to death with the performance in both applications. I set the one in the shop at 40 for freeze protection and when I come out in the morning it's just above 40 and the pellet stove is still warm.

I hooked the one up in the camper and tested it on a couple cold mornings (>30) setting it to 50 and it worked like a champ. Would buy again.
Great rec. Was the wiring straight forward moving over from the analog? Just ordered! Thanks!
 
eyemgh said:
Great rec. Was the wiring straight forward moving over from the analog? Just ordered! Thanks!
I hooked it up the same way OP Desert Dave did, no problems:

"I connected the white wire to 'W' and the blue wire to 'R' on the new stat. I left the sensitivity at the default of one degree ( it can be raised up to 3 degrees if desired) and left the default setting at 'electric' instead of switching it to the 'gas/oil' setting. It tested out per the booklet."
 
BobD said:
I hooked it up the same way OP Desert Dave did, no problems:

"I connected the white wire to 'W' and the blue wire to 'R' on the new stat. I left the sensitivity at the default of one degree ( it can be raised up to 3 degrees if desired) and left the default setting at 'electric' instead of switching it to the 'gas/oil' setting. It tested out per the booklet."
Thanks!
 
I'm no electrician, so forgive me if this is a dumb question. I set it up and made it through the first round of checks OK (turns on with raising temp, and off with lowering temp). It wouldn't run fan only though. My circuit only has two wires and my previous thermostat didn't have a fan only option. Based on that it doesn't seem like fan only would be possible. The simple circuit is either open and all off or closed and running both heat and fan. Would that be a correct assumption? Thanks!
 
They had the blue wire connected to 'RC', and the white wire connected to 'W', with the standard (according to the stat literature) jumper between RC and RH.
Just changed my thermostat to this exact one and am wondering if I have to connect the standard jumper (red wire) to this unit. Pardon my ignorance here as this is all foreign to me. Appreciate all your help and insights.
 
AndyandLaurie said:
Just changed my thermostat to this exact one and am wondering if I have to connect the standard jumper (red wire) to this unit. Pardon my ignorance here as this is all foreign to me. Appreciate all your help and insights.
I just hooked up the wires like they came out of my old stat. There wasn’t a jumper previously, just two wires that I clipped the ends off of and tightened into the new unit with a small flat head.
 
I just hooked up the wires like they came out of my old stat. There wasn’t a jumper previously, just two wires that I clipped the ends off of and tightened into the new unit with a small flat head.
Ok thank you.
 

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