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This may also why there are complaints of the newer FWCs being heavier than the old ones, even on the empty shell models. I guess it is all a tradeoff.

Was the battery being charged when it became hot, either through solar, alternator or converter? Any idea what the battery voltage was at this point? I suspect this is more likely to be a charging issue than a battery issue.

The various battery monitors ARE ammeters, and will do exactly what was requested - plus a bunch more.

A battery monitor is probably the easiest solution and most useful, as ntsqd suggests. Either a full featured version, or a budget alternative (I can't speak to how well the budget ones actually work). The install is straightforward - disconnect everything from the negative terminal of the...

The photos definitely show a nicely maintained truck and camper. However, that doesn't make up for the price being about $10K high. Probably best just to walk away from this, it seems unlikely you would have a meeting of the minds without hurting some feelings, which is an added factor in a...

Here is another data point - a recently sold Tacoma/fully optioned FWC. It listed at $48K and sold quickly, so probably well priced. The Tacoma has a private party blue book value about $10K over the F150, which would seem to suggest that $38K may be a more reasonable price.....

I have a hard mount ARB with bluetooth pressure monitoring, distribution manifold etc. It is awesome, but based on how LA plans on using this, it is also complete overkill. The portable Viaair seems like a great option or even the Viaair 300P. You will also want a regulator to put inline...

My non-expert feeling is that is significantly too high, and is certainly not a screaming deal. I am no expert on F-150s, but the book on the truck is about $19,000 in very good condition with the actual (low) miles. That puts the camper at $26 - $29K, which is too much for a 5 year old slide...

This is not an entirely straightforward thing to do. As for the camper, it is probably worth ~$20K. The best metric is what similar campers are selling for, unfortunately there are not a huge number of comparison points, but here are a couple...

Returning the Costco panel before you would need to modify it and kicking this down the road is likely a wise choice. I really doubt you would end up using it much.

The newer FWC sideliner is a heavy reinforced vinyl (like the material rafts are made out of). I am not sure how they get it so tight at install, but there is no user adjustment.

It depends on the cloth and wavelength. But generally speaking, the cloth will absorb some/most of the IR radiation and warm up - at which point the heat transmission is conductive, not radiant. The general advice is that you need at least a few cm of air between a radiant barrier and the...

If you cover it in a cloth headliner, then it is no longer reflective.......

The aerogel is porous - it is glass fiber batting impregnated with aerogel particles. Honestly it is not really a reasonable solution, given that it would be right next to the uninsulated soft walls, but it is fun to dream. Ensolite would probably work pretty well. It is a cheap way to...

The solar plugs are not standard. FWC uses an SAE plug. You will need to buy a pigtail and splice it onto the wires coming from the solar panel. You can use a multimeter to measure the polarity of the plug on the side of the camper. It sounds like you have already ordered this, but if...

The rigid insulation can squeak a little bit in high winds that rock the camper. If it is that windy though, the wind itself is much louder. If you have the opportunity to redo the ceiling, have you considered someway to provide a thermal break on the aluminium frame members? The worst...

The fuse block should either be wired to the battery OR to the load terminals on the controller, not both. This is a wiring mistake and explains both the odd behavior and could explain the failures off charge controllers. The position of the kill switch doesn't matter if the DC circuits are...

I have the fiamma F45 (crank out) on our current camper. I honestly don't use it all that much, but I am rarely around camp during the middle of the day when an awning would be most useful for shade. That said, I used the F35Pro (manual awning) on my last camper even less to almost not at...

PS it sounds like FWC owes overland solar a few charge controllers. As mentioned earlier wiring is not FWC (or ATCs) strong point.

Good sleuthing. This could explain your issue - with the battery fuse blown, all the charge current was flowing through the load terminals - which means it was likely not being sensed by the MPPT controller correctly, which could certainly cause issues. Before the fuse blew, you had a path...

Same here, at least if we used the shower - we blow it out with our on board compressor through an in-line regulator, then close the isolation valves to the shower. If we haven't used the shower, I generally don't bother with the blow out, and just run the pump dry. Haven't had any issues...

I had assumed that the accumulator was like a well pressure tank, half water and half air: But maybe it is all most all air, particularly when the water pressure if all drained. Agreed on the antifreeze, nasty stuff. We have never used it - just drain the water tank and run the pump dry ...

I am curious about the accumulator that you are using with your water pump. These seem like a great idea to keep the noise and vibration down, but what about winterizing? Is there a drain or does the pump blow the water out of it? I am guessing you also use your camper in the winter and/or...

Spectacular work!

Yes, do a continuity test. Something is wired incorrectly here, and it would be better to have a firm idea of what is going on before attempting to fix it.