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I cycled a couple batteries before and after soldering, and there was no change. I think these big batteries are fairly tolerant of heat. Pretty sure regular plumber's flux will be acid, so don't use that unless you have acid core solder.

I agree! I'm planning to do it the "right" way, but was experimenting with how careless I could get. And my flux hadn't arrived yet. I'm going to use that as well. I think sanding the cell surface is a good idea, since it is the toughest part to adhere.

I thought you had acid core solder? If so, you need acid flux. Or you need different solder. I'm using rosin core solder and a 60W iron. I sand and clean (with alcohol) the cell and wire. Then I just melt the solder on the iron, slop it on the cell and wire, and rub it around with the iron for...

Thanks! I'm fine the lower capacity if they will last. I have a buffer. It will probably be enough even if I get a fridge later. I'm going to be nearly full time, but even then 100 eq full cycles/yr would be a lot. So 20 year cycle life. I don't get much variation on a specific cell after a...

Just finished cycling the 2nd "good" battery (3.31v initially) and only got 4.2ah out of it. I got more out of the 1v batteries. I know that a slower charge and discharge would get a little more out of them, but not much. Plus the testing I've seen posted on the internet regarding these and the...

You can check the voltages then. Your charger will probably work, but I'd cycle the 4 packs of 30p first before you do the whole thing. That way they will be balanced when you start.

What does your Fluke do? EDIT: Also, I'd be curious what your voltages are. That is an easy and quick thing to check. I'll probably see if I can get my low voltage cells replaced.

I'm slightly bummed. As I posted earlier I bought 180 cells with the following initial voltage results. 115 were between 3.20-3.37v. 49 were between 2.80-3.19v. 10 were between 2.0-2.79v. 6 were ~1v. I've tested 5 cells that were <2v including 2 that were over 2v when I first tested, but...

Bigger cells are certainly easier to deal with. Just make sure you use caution dealing direct with China. I'd look for a company that people in the US have had successful dealings with for starters. You would need 8 of those cells to make a 100ah 12v battery. You can get that capacity battery...

Need cradles. That's probably why your bag blew.

I wired 3 of the <1v cells together in parallel and they took 18ah before hitting 3.6v. They then settled to 3.33v. I thought that was promising. I want to cycle them a few times, but the charger refuses to discharge them. It's set to 2A and 2.0v minimum. When I run the discharge, it will ramp...

Thank you, I do not have a charger. Does this look like a good option? https://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-Battery-Balance-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01NB9A36R/ref=zg_bs_2234135011_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AYJCQWW8NCSDQ6F0DT3A I just checked the Chinese stickers on the sides of the boxes. Oct 2013.

I think I was less fortunate. I bought 180 cells. 115 were between 3.20-3.37v. Good. Most very close to 3.30v. 49 were between 2.80-3.19v. Probably ok. 10 were between 2.0-2.79v. Marginal. 6 were ~1v. Dead. I heard somewhere that these have been sitting around for a few years. They were...

If you got decent bags and Daystar cradles you should be fine. Without the cradles, the bags can rip if you get crossed up offroad. Airbags are the way to go if you'll be driving with the camper off. Upgrading shocks is a good idea as well.

Rando, I've been checking my cells and noticed a pretty big voltage variation. 3.02-3.37v in the first box. Did you balance them before wiring? Thinking there might be some big current flows....

I'm certainly no expert, but I wouldn't trust the batteries to the BMS alone. I'd get a programmable controller that allows me to set parameters just the way I want them. Particularly high and low shutoff voltages and no float. I'll probably also add a temperature switch to prevent charging when...

I finally got my batteries today. The paper cover pulls right off, and there is a plastic disk that covers the top (+) terminal. Thinking I'll remove the paper covers and hot glue them in a staggered formation to take up the minimum space. Does that seem risky? It doesn't look like I'd have much...

I reached the same conclusion regarding the tank. Don't think I'll need it, and may be better to just add a couple jerry cans.

Maybe. It's paper so anything would work.

I'm planning to just glue my cells together. Would take up less space.

I've heard many reports that poly lower shackle bushings help the ride, and reduce the vibration and resonance in the rear end.

Can you describe exactly what you are experiencing, and what the conditions are?

I thought they all did. I'm going to have stiffer suspension with digressive damping, and the swaybar interferes with articulation offroad. But I haven't tried it yet. My old truck didn't have any swaybars though.

Maybe I'm crazy, but I'm planning on taking my front swaybar off. It will be awhile before I can test that with a camper though.

Wait, that seems opposite...? When you have a load the rear will be low. So Cal is saying to raise the rear so the truck sits more like it's unloaded.