Air bag and tire pressure

[ottorogers]

Glad to hear it Otto!

FYI, shocks aren’t going to help with sway.

I’m a bit concerned reading your post, as I have the same truck and ordered the same camper. I’ll post my notes when it arrives

I wouldn’t be concerned, but I would be proactive, definitely get the best tires money can buy, E rated 10 ply, airbags are a must, and adding 2 leaf springs is also a must, and lastly is the sway bar, you can’t do without any of these items

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

I wouldn’t be concerned, but I would be proactive, definitely get the best tires money can buy, E rated 10 ply, airbags are a must, and adding 2 leaf springs is also a must, and lastly is the sway bar, you can’t do without any of these items

Don’t take this the wrong way, but have you had many full size trucks before?

I have the bags, E tires, and just one add a leaf for now. Handling amazing with my last setup I just removed that was 1100lbs.

Also, I’m Offroad way too much to add a rear sway bar.

 

[ottorogers]

Glad to hear it Otto!

FYI, shocks aren’t going to help with sway.

I’m a bit concerned reading your post, as I have the same truck and ordered the same camper. I’ll post my notes when it arrives

i agree shocks won’t make a huge difference at all, but I’ve gone this far, so what’s another $250

 

[ottorogers]

Don’t take this the wrong way, but have you had many full size trucks before?

I have the bags, E tires, and just one add a leaf for now. Handling amazing with my last setup I just removed that was 1100lbs.

Also, I’m Offroad way too much to add a rear sway bar.

first truck, big learning curve, I really appreciate all your input, this is a great forum group, lots of great advise, I don’t take offense to anything you have said at all

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

first truck, big learning curve, I really appreciate all your input, this is a great forum group, lots of great advise, I don’t take offense to anything you have said at all

Ok, now this makes a bit more sense actually.

Full size trucks, even bone stock are going to have a lot more sway than what you’re probably used to. It’s the nature of their design. It’s just how they are.

It can be helped some of course, but it can’t be eliminated, it will never handle like a sports car.

The more you drive it, the more comfortable you’ll get, I went from a 1999 Land Cruiser to the Tundra and the sway took some getting used to!

My .02

 

[ottorogers]

Ok, now this makes a bit more sense actually.

Full size trucks, even bone stock are going to have a lot more sway than what you’re probably used to. It’s the nature of their design. It’s just how they are.

It can be helped some of course, but it can’t be eliminated, it will never handle like a sports car.

The more you drive it, the more comfortable you’ll get, I went from a 1999 Land Cruiser to the Tundra and the sway took some getting used to!

My .02

i should stop here then!!!!!

 

[Vic Harder]

I don't know guys... I have driven some pretty sporty cars at speed on the track and really enjoy the twistiest mountain roads out there. I still have a BMW M3 that I wear tires out on pretty quick. And still choose those routes and avoid interstates whenever I can, even in the truck.

My rig handles very well, for a truck. Well enough that I have passed M3's (not driven by me, obviously) in the twisties and feel confident ignoring most "slow to xxxx " corner signs and just staying at the speed limit.

"Sway" is not something I have encountered yet on my rig, and I have been in some serious crosswinds, and have done some quick lane-changes. Not having driven the OP's rig, I can't say how it is compared to mine, but still... I feel it should inspire confidence in the driver that all is well and under control.

 

[ottorogers]

I don't know guys... I have driven some pretty sporty cars at speed on the track and really enjoy the twistiest mountain roads out there. I still have a BMW M3 that I wear tires out on pretty quick. And still choose those routes and avoid interstates whenever I can, even in the truck.

My rig handles very well, for a truck. Well enough that I have passed M3's (not driven by me, obviously) in the twisties and feel confident ignoring most "slow to xxxx " corner signs and just staying at the speed limit.

"Sway" is not something I have encountered yet on my rig, and I have been in some serious crosswinds, and have done some quick lane-changes. Not having driven the OP's rig, I can't say how it is compared to mine, but still... I feel it should inspire confidence in the driver that all is well and under control.

maybe my meaning of “sway” is another persons “normal”, all I can say is it’s much better now, and I’m at or about 2200 lbs, way overweight, next trip the jacks and awning stay at home (-250 lbs)

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

maybe my meaning of “sway” is another persons “normal”, all I can say is it’s much better now, and I’m at or about 2200 lbs, way overweight, next trip the jacks and awning stay at home (-250 lbs)

Just thought of something else... what bushings are you running in the leaf springs? Rubber or Poly? That would help with stability too.

 

[rruff]

I've heard many reports that poly lower shackle bushings help the ride, and reduce the vibration and resonance in the rear end.

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

I've heard many reports that poly lower shackle bushings help the ride, and reduce the vibration and resonance in the rear end.

I run Poly in all my rigs. They have pros and cons.

They do improve on road manners and the ride.

They do limit Offroad articulation, which only matters if you’re doing harder trails.

The key is the greasable bushing and the pins with the zerks.

If they get dry, the squeaking will drive you absolutely mad!

I got the Poly greasable bushings and shackles with my OME kit and so far have been perfect, when they squeak I just add a tad of grease.

 

[Vic Harder]

I've heard many reports that poly lower shackle bushings help the ride, and reduce the vibration and resonance in the rear end.

"Reducing resonance in the rear end" is always a good idea, especially if there is a passenger in the cab...

 

[ottorogers]

Just thought of something else... what bushings are you running in the leaf springs? Rubber or Poly? That would help with stability too.

no idea, I went to Deaver Springs and assumed they would do what was required and the best

 

[ottorogers]

"Reducing resonance in the rear end" is always a good idea, especially if there is a passenger in the cab...

very funny Vic

 

[Squatch]

My Deaver's are being shipped with OEM rubber bushings installed.

I've used poly with different outcomes. The OME greasable bushing and bolts I use on my Isuzu's have been fantastic. Rubber bushings twist. Poly bushing rotate. When you have extreme suspension articulation rubber bushing can be torn and fail early. Poly will just rotate. Rubber can ride softer.

 

[ottorogers]

My Deaver's are being shipped with OEM rubber bushings installed.

I've used poly with different outcomes. The OME greasable bushing and bolts I use on my Isuzu's have been fantastic. Rubber bushings twist. Poly bushing rotate. When you have extreme suspension articulation rubber bushing can be torn and fail early. Poly will just rotate. Rubber can ride softer.

mine are The original ones from the factory, because Dever just added to the the original spring pack

 

[acmedave]

I run the OME 2.5" springs with an extra add a leaf and bags. I rarely need to inflate the bags more than 25lbs.



Where can a guy source this extra leaf for the OME leafpack? I currently have the OME Dakar leafpacks and airbags already installed, and I'm waiting for my Hawk to be manufactured. (We're hoping for a delivery sometime late winter or early spring)

I installed the leafpacks and other goodies myself, so I imagine it should not be too difficult to add the extra leaf to the standard OME pack?

 

[Squatch]

You should be able to source the additional leaf through any Old Man Emu or ARB suspension dealer. You will need a longer center bolt of the proper diameter. I buy the ones that are too long and then cut them after everything is installed and the pack is back together.

Caution. Spring tension is powerful and can be dangerous if something gets loose!

This can be done on the truck.

After the U bolts are removed and the axle unattached from the spring.

I clamp the spring pack on either side of the center bolt with 2 large C clamps to hold the spring tension.

"Slowly" Remove the center bolt and replace with the new long one and a washer and non locking nut. Tighten sorta snug.

Remove the C clamps and then slowly Loosen the new center bolt. This will safely release the tension from the spring pack. This is where the long bolts come in.

Once loose you can then take the pack apart and install the extra leaf in the right spot.

A jack can help here. Springs are heavy.

Then reassemble with the long center bolt and slowly compress the pack back together. Big washer under the nut helps.

Reclamp the C clamps so you can remove the non locking nut and big washer. Then install a locking nut and tighten it all up firmly.

Cut off the excess bolt with a hacksaw and release the C clamps. Now you can reattach the axle. Use new locking nuts on the U bolts.

Be sure your U bolts are still long enough after adding the extra leaf!

This assumes you have some mechanical experience and tools and are capable of dealing with attaching the axle with the U bolts ect. It's not a step by step for the total novice. Just helpful hints for those who basically know what they are doing.

Pics are from a used set of OME springs I rebuilt a while back.


In this case I used all thread to compress the pack. this was just a test fit. I was adding spring liners between the leaves. Old school no longer made stuff. Just the pics i had on hand.

 

[So Cal Adventurer]

You should be able to source the additional leaf through any Old Man Emu or ARB suspension dealer. You will need a longer center bolt of the proper diameter. I buy the ones that are too long and then cut them after everything is installed and the pack is back together.

Caution. Spring tension is powerful and can be dangerous if something gets loose!

This can be done on the truck.

After the U bolts are removed and the axle unattached from the spring.

I clamp the spring pack on either side of the center bolt with 2 large C clamps to hold the spring tension.

"Slowly" Remove the center bolt and replace with the new long one and a washer and non locking nut. Tighten sorta snug.

Remove the C clamps and then slowly Loosen the new center bolt. This will safely release the tension from the spring pack. This is where the long bolts come in.

Once loose you can then take the pack apart and install the extra leaf in the right spot.

A jack can help here. Springs are heavy.

Then reassemble with the long center bolt and slowly compress the pack back together. Big washer under the nut helps.

Reclamp the C clamps so you can remove the non locking nut and big washer. Then install a locking nut and tighten it all up firmly.

Cut off the excess bolt with a hacksaw and release the C clamps. Now you can reattach the axle. Use new locking nuts on the U bolts.

Be sure your U bolts are still long enough after adding the extra leaf!

This assumes you have some mechanical experience and tools and are capable of dealing with attaching the axle with the U bolts ect. It's not a step by step for the total novice. Just helpful hints for those who basically know what they are doing.

Pics are from a used set of OME springs I rebuilt a while back.
elec 012 (Small).JPG

In this case I used all thread to compress the pack. this was just a test fit. I was adding spring liners between the leaves. Old school no longer made stuff. Just the pics i had on hand.
023 (Small).JPG

Agree with every word of this 100%!!

YES on the longer spring bolt. I learned that the hard way when I had my truck all apart! Luckily local shop had some.

My ubolts were barely long enough so I replaced them with longer just for piece of mind.

If you’re near San Diego I can help.

 

[Mayday]

After looking through this whole thread I still have some questions. When I had my firestone ride-rite installed by a dealer I was told to keep 60psi in while fully loaded for my 13 silverado with Nitto terra grappler g2 285/65/18 tires. Long story short after reading through everyone's different setups has anyone found something ideal to run tires and ride-rite air bags at? I recently went on a trip with my front tires at 40 and rear around 45 and ended up getting 8 mpg. Thoughts or suggestions for a loaded 13 Chevy Silverado Hawk? Cheers!