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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/404194611205595/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner 2006 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with older FWC $35,000 Pasadena, CA

My 90s Ranger II is made primarily of .040-.050 1" square tubing. The cabover part is thicker I believe but probably not.125" I did a repair using 1/16" 6061-T6 and I can tell you that it's way stiffer and more stout than the original framing. I wasn't able to locate "original-style" rounded...

I have this same camper just with the 3-way fridge. I paid $4500 for it a year ago and drove from SoCal to Boulder CO to pick it up. Mine had some tears in the liner and appeared to have some repaired damage to the back corner...$3k for this one looks to be a much better deal. My heater and...

Haven't seen this till now, did you figure it out? I would drive pretty slow if mounting to nerf bars...real rock sliders would be ok though. Are you able to tie it down inside the bed? I use the rear tie down points in the Tacoma bed and when I bought my camper I put eyebolts in the front...

A couple things to consider: It would be awesome to be able to sit up in the bed without hitting the ceiling. Changing the tent siding and lift panels make that possible. Making the floor pack deeper raises you center of gravity and the cabover will catch more wind ->worse gas mileage...

You might check out this thread on Tacomaworld.com https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/taking-a-tacoma-around-the-world-need-advice.585792/ There are other resources there as well. I personally have put a slide in on my Tacoma and you can tell it's heavy back there. I'm nervous on more...

If I were looking to buy (i'm not) I'd probably be looking for sub $10k....might go quick at that. Might get $15k if it's in great shape and you find the right buyer. Who knows, they sell new for like $30k right? so maybe you can get $20k

Start a build thread for sure...looks like a fun project. I rebuilt my lift panels similar to factory but used a plastic cored aluminum skin panel used in sign making. I really like it that way and personally wouldn't do the conduit lift although it's proven to work pretty well. If you have...

I drove mine home on pallets...been using it since on 2x4s. I wouldn't worry about the height issue too much. With the narrower camper, make sure you can tie it down inside the bed and that you can get the truck between the jacks...these are easy problems to solve though so I wouldn't be too...

Cool Chinook pop up in Los Angeles for $2k...maybe pricey for it's condition but would be a cool project. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/245122099881379

https://bellingham.craigslist.org/rvs/d/bellingham-1999-sun-lite-pop-up-small/7225191652.html Could also consider a wood framed model and upgrade later.

It's an 8' Ranger II so it's nice and narrow which I like and I thought it was a late 90s model but now think it is early 90s. I also wanted a full camper with kitchen and something that was "not a project." At 19 years old, if you are handy and willing to put the work in, I'd be looking for a...

Took me about a year to find mine and I drove from SoCal to Boulder, CO for it. Paid $4500 and it was in fairly decent shape. You'll find many more deals on the ones that don't fit your truck unfortunately...i know that problem well. I also wound up with an 8' model and kinda wished I had...

OK, so it's actually the front end that feels "jittery" or you can't tell if it's the front or back? Keep in mind sumo springs are springs not dampers and the two do entirely different things for your suspension. I would think Sumo Springs would only be a consideration if you thought you were...

With this design, the roof is raised by two opposite sides. The sides that do not have mechanical supports (conduit lifters in this case) act as a kind of soft shear wall that needs to be taut and only gets that way by the pressure provided by your conduit lifters. If the lifter bars are not...

I was thinking that's where the porta-potty goes. I was also wondering what is mounted to the front wall on either side of the cab passthrough window.

It sure was when I thought the truck and camper was $23k together but I think it's actually $42k. Hard to say at $42k. It's a pretty nice setup though and it would certainly cost quite a bit more to purchase all of that new. The truck would be about $38k and I think the camper would be close...

How did it ride at that weight without the stableloads? Were those really necessary on the F-350? Sounds like you have the weight carrying capacity figured out to your liking but damping is the issue. How old/worn are your shocks? Also keep in mind dampers are meant to keep the tires on the...

Door being open should be plenty of airflow I would think. Sounds like you've got a heavy roof! Also keep in mind that the lift struts push at angles in order to lift the roof vertically. They will provide the most lift when they are closest to vertical, so when the roof is all the way up...

It doesn't pop up but it is a FWC....so weird!!! I guess maybe techincally it doesn't belong in this thread because of that: https://reno.craigslist.org/for/d/truckee-2013-four-wheel-camper-grandby/7217356500.html

I don't think you'll get away from it completely unfortunately. My corners are starting to wear through and I'm sure that taking the time to make sure the corners lay nicely will help with the longevity of the vinyl.

Out of curiosity, what "amenities" come with the shell and/or what options have your ordered(is there an electrical system, etc...)? What vehicle will you be pairing it with? The FWC flatbed starts at $29k but they don't offer a shell option so I see how Bison is filling in a gap there, was...

Good luck! The bungee and attaching to the lifters will reduce the amount of post-roof-lowering tucking in of the vinyl you will need to do too...might be trivial though.

FWC attaches the vinyl to the lift panels so that they fold in with the panels when the top comes down avoiding any area where they can snag. They also have bungee cords inside that span from driver to passenger side to pull in the sides as the top lowers. You put your lift bars on the sides...

Not sure what your experience level is, but even with the control of Tig, it's quite challenging to weld thin aluminum. If you're building from scratch, you might consider 1/8" frame members and using less of them in a "space frame" rather than "stud/ladder" structural design.