1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, what are most people using for their FWC?

1 ton here. Previously a 3/4. Couldn't make our wt numbers work with a 1/2 ton. That's just how we roll. If I'm going to be "over" I'd rather it be with a heavier truck. Figure the 3/4, 1 ton are built a bit more robustly than the 1/2, a belief I don't mind holding when we're off highway.

Agree affordability and application are key. Different horses etc ...

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Zirdu said:
I have a 2016 Ford F-150 single cab with the heavy duty package. V-8 engine. The door sticker on the vehicle says the combined weight of cargo and passengers should not exceed 3,159 pounds.

I carry a Grandby full time, and even with two passengers and a lot of gear, I am always well within this limit. It all rides great and I have had no problems whatsoever.
Zirdu, that's awsome ! Have you felt the need to made any mods to the suspension ?
Thx. ~D
 
Loaded Hawk on GMC Sierra 2500 diesel. Keep camper on full time. Actually, the ride is better with the load on the truck. No change, or very little change, in gas mileage. Usually pulling a RZR on a trailer, so I like the diesel.
 
My first Grandby was on a Chevrolet K2500 Camper Special. Standard bed which was 8 foot back in those days. 8600 GVWR, 502 big block. Never knew the camper was back there.

My new one is going on a Silverado 2500HD. Also has trailer tow package & increased capacity chassis package. 9200 GVWR Extended cab, short bed (6' 5") 6.0LS gas engine. Will put the new Grandby on with the tail gate down.

Will do some measurements before & after to see if I want to go with air bags. The heaviest thing on the tail gate area is going to be the dual batteries.
 
Colorado Mark said:
My first Grandby was on a Chevrolet K2500 Camper Special. Standard bed which was 8 foot back in those days. 8600 GVWR, 502 big block. Never knew the camper was back there.

My new one is going on a Silverado 2500HD. Also has trailer tow package & increased capacity chassis package. 9200 GVWR Extended cab, short bed (6' 5") 6.0LS gas engine. Will put the new Grandby on with the tail gate down.

Will do some measurements before & after to see if I want to go with air bags. The heaviest thing on the tail gate area is going to be the dual batteries.
Are the batteries in the back on a Grandby? I put my dual 6v 250AH batteries at the front when I did my Hawk build.
 
Yes, in my newer Grandby the battery is next to the door. This is a bad location, IMO. This is a prime area for a storage cabinet. The battery should have been put under the bench seats in the dinette (front dinette). The area under the seats is much more difficult to get to, and would have been perfect for the battery, which is rarely accessed. Also, the wire runs might have been a bit shorter with the battery under the dinette seat.

In answer to another question, I have not found any need to do suspension mods to my F-150. It rides like a dream as is, and at 3159 pounds carry capacity, I could add a lot more weight without exceeding the limit.
 
I also have a F-150, 2018 w/8’ bed, heavy duty pkg., ordered thru dealer. I wanted the EcoBoost engine. My FWC Grandby is a Shell with rollover couch, heater, glass stove, side awning. I have Two lithium batteries = 150ah @~45 lbs total, Two 120w flex solar panels w/alum frame mount @~15-20 lbs total. Dometic cfx 50 12v fridge. I’m adding a small galley cabinet w/7gal h2o tank & a rear corner storage cabinet. Lagun Table is mounted on the front wall, w/small opposite seat, to form a mini front dinette when needed. I want extension drawers to access storage underneath the couch. My truck actually rides better w/Camper. Climbing power & mpg is good. Plenty of truck support, so no mods needed. My object was to be & stay light, 12V power only. I want to mount a driver side solar shower & may splurge on the Aussie foldout framed shower tent.
Truck decision is ..... what do you need/want & how to safely carry your own, individual desired, “Adventure”?
My FWC will wear several hats. I need it for RV travel too, hence a Grandby. One negative, I’m not wild about my truck’s turning radius. My truck has the S-Cab, not S-Crew. I could not imagine dealing with the Crew length. I plan on 2 foam mattresses, to enable semi made beds. The heater was a great addition on our Fall foliage trip in the Sierra last year.
Stuff is planned in 2019 but 2020 will be a very involved FWC year. For a 1/2 ton, the HD pkg. definitely adds payload.
 
The only benefits I perceive of purchasing a 1/2 ton over a 3/4 ton, is ride quality when unloaded (may not be an issue if you run it loaded full-time) and the incremental cost savings.

The 3/4 ton is going to be a FAR more robust chassis, roll bars, steering, etc...which you won't have to spend money/time/resources on upgrading to try and make it work with 1/2 ton springs.

Lastly, if you do any sort of offroading, the 3/4 ton is going to be SO MUCH more beefy and able to take the abuse...particuarly with a large load on board.

For this reason, I picked up a Cummins 2500, standard cab (turning radius reasons), long bed (larger camper and more storage) to go under my Grandby, with a Dana 60 front axle, and a Dana 70 rear axle. The last thing I want to deal with, is broken stuff due to overloading and/or offroad usage...as I do some pretty crazy trails.

Your mileage may vary...
 
^ Not disagreeing, just to add a thought ...

I really like what Ford has done with available curb wt for their current gen F150. Quick look at Ford site specs I'm seeing ~1300lb curb wt difference between a base 2018 F150 V8 with high GWVR vs the nearest same config base F250 (checked RCLB and CCS:cool:. All have an AL body.

Agree that difference is mostly "beefiness". And would say that extra beef would be useful for carrying a heavier load like I do, esp for "off highway" (FSRs). Indeed that might be the sweet spot for such a combo, based on my limited experience.

But if a person could stay under GWVR by travelling with much less junk than me, coupled with a suitable, lighter wt base vehicle, I could see the advantage for highway and some of "off road" travel (which I don't really do with this truck but believing that lighter is generally better).

To give a comparison, a couple of posters further back on this thread have a Granby, same as me but with their 1/2 ton and gear set up are prob ~5,000lbs lighter.

Then again if I could go light, I'd slim down for a Ranger/Taco. Then I could back to driving the fun stuff :D
 
Vic Harder said:
Strange. Any idea why they moved them back there?

Zirdu said:
Yes, in my newer Grandby the battery is next to the door. This is a bad location, IMO. This is a prime area for a storage cabinet. The battery should have been put under the bench seats in the dinette (front dinette). The area under the seats is much more difficult to get to, and would have been perfect for the battery, which is rarely accessed. Also, the wire runs might have been a bit shorter with the battery under the dinette seat.
My first guess would be battery venting. Much harder to vent the batterie(s) under the dinette. Batteries in back are probably vented to outside which would be very easy to do.
 
Yes, the battery compartment in my newer Grandby (in the back), is sealed from the interior, but vented to the outside with two little vents. In my front dinette, you access the front turnbuckles under the dinette seats. So it would be easy, I think, to vent a sealed battery compartment to the outside if it were under the seats. But not everyone has the front dinette, and possibly they don't want to have different wiring for front dinette, side dinette, etc models.
 
Someone on this site once said, "He hadn't heard of anyone going from a 3/4 ton back/down to a 1/2". For good reason, the mileage penalty(which for me was about 1-1.5" is hugely offset by the capability of the 3/4 ton vehicle, not to mention way better braking and overall handling. If you want to go to a 3/4 but funds are tight, shop the used market but be persistent. It took me 6 mos of searching everyday. Tough to find a 3/4 that hasn't been worked to death or the owner has turned that odometer over once or twice.
 
I ran a saved search on searchtempest.com for CL ads everyday for a couple months before finding our truck.
 
We both had 1/2 tons and planned on eventually getting a 3/4. Bought our loaded Hawk and did a short trip and a long trip on the 2008 Ram. I had added a rear sway bar and air bags with an on board compressor. Installing the suspension upgrades was a nightmare of stuff that was supposed to fit the stock, unmodified truck, not fitting. The truck handled the camper ok, and we took it on some pretty rough forest roads in SE Idaho. But one thing people never talk about when upgrading a 1/2 ton is the brakes. We almost completely lost brakes coming down a moderately steep, short grade. And these were brand new pads and rotors, allegedly heavy duty for hauling trailers. Now, my wife probably could have been a little slower on the descent, but it was a sign for us to speed up the plan to get a 3/4 ton.

So I traded in my 05 Sierra for an 18 Ram 3/4 ton Cummins. I could not be happier. Yes the ride is rougher than a 1/2 ton. Yes the diesel is loud and rattley. But the truck doesn't even notice the camper. When we put the camper on, I have a hard time even seeing the truck sag at all. It completely takes a ton of worries out of the equation for me, and in turn my wife doesn't have to put up with Mr. Frowny on our trips.

I know people make 1/2 tons work. For us, the peace of mind is the deciding factor.
 
Andy Douglass said:
When we put the camper on, I have a hard time even seeing the truck sag at all.
Yet, oddly enough I have seen posts of people adding airbags to 3/4 tons.

I'm considering a 3/4 ton for my next truck, but I don't want to add airbags.
I'm a bit confused on how much is too much suspension, and how much is not enough.
 
Never added air bags to my truck. I'd do it if I thought it needed it but it doesn't. I'm with Andy. Better too much truck than not enough.

Everything is a compromise. I drove the Jeep yesterday just for the heck of it. Washed the dog at incredible pets. Trader Joe's is next door. Having the Jeep I shopped there because its smaller than most compact cars. I won't even think about trying to park the truck there. Otoh trying to sleep in the Jeep? Not gonna happen :)
 
Bill D said:
Yet, oddly enough I have seen posts of people adding airbags to 3/4 tons.

I'm considering a 3/4 ton for my next truck, but I don't want to add airbags.
I'm a bit confused on how much is too much suspension, and how much is not enough.
I'm running a 3/4 ton and didn't need airbags. Drives really nice!
 
I took a serious look at the Ford F250's to haul my Hawk and they are HUGE vehicles, just too big for driving in a city or fitting in a standard parking spot. If you use your truck as a daily driver like most of us do, the bigger trucks pretty much suck. Sure if you're living in a rural environment it works OK. But the modern diesels are high maintanance vehicles and you have to deal with the costly DEF fluid. Totally not worth it IMO. I have had a fully loaded Hawk on a 2012 Ford F150 with airbags in the back and E rated tires and I have had zero problems, the truck is well within its payload rating. The brakes are more than adequate with the Hawk on.
And now the newer Ford F150's have more payload, more power and more MPG than my truck.
You do not need a diesel either for safety or MPG.
I did take a serious look at the new Rams and I really liked them, might be the most luxurious vehicle I have ever been inside, unfortunately the height of the bed to the top of the cab didn't work with my current Hawk.
So I went with a new Ford F150 with a payload of more than 3000lbs, plenty to haul any FWC.
 
Bill D, one thing airbags would give those folks is the ability to raise the rear height of their vehicle, either full time or adjusted to different loads.

How much spring "suspension" is going to depend, in part, on how much load, how it's being carried at what height you want it to be carried. Light or heavy packer, short or long box truck, camper overhang, counter weight on front axle, towing pin weight, lift for clearance or appearance etc ... Lot's of variables for different setups for different folks.

And then there is the types of road you want to drive on. Bombing down a FSR you'll want enough spring rate to not bottom out but not so much you burst a kidney driving a pothole field. Highway cruising you'll want smooth ride but without wallowing in corners. Sometimes the "how much" will be "too much" and sometimes it won't. Like said above, it's a compromise.

Good news is, there's a lot of engineering in modern trucks and they do a pretty good job all round. Even empty a 3/4 ton is designed to give an acceptable ride and I'd say typically they do (others may disagree). And the factory payloads are not bad for carrying a pop up camper and some gear.

I'd suggest you determine what your current camping load is before replacing the vehicle. Even scaling the truck on a trip and deducting a curb wt found online would be a useful estimate. Then buying a truck that is rated such that your intended load comfortably within its own payload rating is prob your best bet for being in the suspension sweet spot.

One thing about factory leaf springs, the pack can often be reworked to better suit the application and owner. You should be able to find a truck and trailer spring shop in any major population centre that does this type of work. So if you get a 3/4 ton and find the ride too stiff you can have a leaf spring taken out, for eg, while still having whatever benefits the "bigger" pick up might provide you.


One last thing, my truck springs are so stiff I can barely push down the rear bumper with my own weight - maybe a 1/4" for a split second. But the rear drops a good 2" when the camper goes on. And when that camper is on the truck feels it: the diesel motor, the brakes, the suspension. All are effected in a manner noticeable to the driver. And when we're loaded for bear, that truck works !

So if this sounds different from other reports, keep that in mind when you read my comments. YMMV.
 

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