160w Solar Panel Clips

[BrianG]

I'm thinking of replacing my 100w solar panel on my 2015 Hawks roof this winter. Can someone with this factory install provide a photo of the clip holding the 160w panel to the Yakima track?

I'll also need some advice on plugging the six holes in the roof from the 100w panel.

Thanks

 

[BrianG]

I'm most interested in the nut/bolt that attaches an L bracket to the Yakima rail. Is it simply something I can pickup at the hardware store or is it aYakima part?
Thanks

 

[nikonron]

It is actually a special nut that fits in the track. Ron

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I'm most interested in the nut/bolt that attaches an L bracket to the Yakima rail. Is it simply something I can pickup at the hardware store or is it aYakima part?
Thanks

Thule TK 1 nuts fit without having to remove the track end caps. You can probably order them from RackAttack or eTrailer.

 

[billharr]

My tracks had 6 nuts on each side when I got my camper. Just be sure you size the bolt for what you are securing. To long and you will put a hole in the bottom of the track and your roof.

 

[rando]

Nuts should already be in your Yakima tracks. Bolts are M6.

 

[BrianG]

Thanks everyone, must say, I'm a little embarrassed, just looked and there are four nuts on each side in the track! Thanks for the thread size info.

When filling the previous holes in the roof, are folks caulking then using a rivet or just inserting another flat head screw?

 

[Bombsight]

Google "Yakima Anchor plate A".

 

[BobM]

I'm most interested in the nut/bolt that attaches an L bracket to the Yakima rail. Is it simply something I can pickup at the hardware store or is it aYakima part?
Thanks

I used these to mount my solar panel http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=Y8890028 I added nuts to the bolts to accommodate the thin angle cross members

Here are photos of my setup https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/aP0H0BINIgqssvePxKn5xHzfjKXXjs7jBOfsYZLEd6b

This is the panel bundle I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the angle aluminum at Home Depot. I choose to use rivets to mount so I don't have to worry about screws loosening

 

[BrianG]

Great info from all, thanks.

 

[buckland]

Hey there ... if that 165 panel is the same as mine you won't need the "L" aluminum stock... The panel is long enough to overlap the Yakima tracks. Just buy 4 brass or stainless 1 1/2" "L" brackets... mount them on the on the side of the panels... then using the anchor plate A's mount to Yakima. Bingo.

 

[BrianG]

Thanks Buckland. The 160w panels do reach all the way, an L bracket, as you said, is all I'll need. What brand is your panel. The Zamp panel is quite expensive as compared to the Grape Solar (Home Depot). I emailed Zamp and ask if I should upgrade from my 15a controller to 30a, with the 160 + 100w panels. They said yes to the 30a controller and replace the fuses with 30a, but I thought I read on this site it wasn't really necessary? The wattage only exceeds the 15a controller by 5w's.

 

[buckland]

Hi again ..Solar Boulevard had and has incredibly good deals ...... check out this older string but know I just got their recent email on good deals. http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/12934-solar-boulevard-160-watt-solar-panels-on-sale115/?hl=watt

 

[rando]

Thanks Buckland. The 160w panels do reach all the way, an L bracket, as you said, is all I'll need. What brand is your panel. The Zamp panel is quite expensive as compared to the Grape Solar (Home Depot). I emailed Zamp and ask if I should upgrade from my 15a controller to 30a, with the 160 + 100w panels. They said yes to the 30a controller and replace the fuses with 30a, but I thought I read on this site it wasn't really necessary? The wattage only exceeds the 15a controller by 5w's.

I don't think you will need to upsize your controller to the 30A model, but it will be close. Generally you will only see 70 - 80% of your rated output even under sunny conditions, which would put you right at ~15A. If you have issues you could always upgrade later.

 

[Vic Harder]

most controllers will self-limit the input current. So it isn't like they self-destruct. You will just never see the full power potential of those panels, and as rando points out, that is likely to be true most times anyway.