1998 Hawk - Batt/Fresh Water monitor issue

[The Fawker]

Hello everyone.

I recently purchased a used 1998 FWC Hawk and found out the fresh water and battery meter/monitor/display thing (pic attached) is having some problems. I haven't gotten in there with a multimeter yet, but essentially: the meter display LEDs don't show and the pump switch is stuck "on". The pump will work, but you have to turn it on and off but putting in the 10A fuse and take it out, respectively. So the thing still works... but it doesn't.

Where can I find a wiring diagram for this unit? Any advice for a noob?

Thanks! Excited to be here.
- Fawker

 

[CougarCouple]

Hello The Fawker
I would start by replacing a 1998 board. Switch is probably shot look and see if it’s plug and play. Might make your life a little easier.
Russ

 

[The Fawker]

Hello The Fawker
I would start by replacing a 1998 board. Switch is probably shot look and see if it’s plug and play. Might make your life a little easier.
Russ

That's the immediate response from FWC as well. But if it's something simple, it'll save me $42 plus shipping/tax. A wiring diagram would be super helpful to have for this and just to understand how things work.

 

[rando]

The more recent panels are made by KIB - http://www.kib.us/MonitorPanels.html

I don't know about the ones from 90's. But I couldn't find a schematic for the more recent ones, so I am doubting you will find one for the older ones.

 

[wuck]

Here's how the panel is wired in my '04 Hawk, yours is probably very similar. Note the wire colors (xxx) are different on the camper side of things. The +12V (Brown) is from the fuse panel, +12VS (Violet) goes to the pump. Sorry about my scribbles!



The pc board doesn't control the pump at all, just the switch. A stuck switch is the most likely problem, provided a previous owner didn't "fix" something in the wiring. So, I would start looking at the switch and associated wires. The "PUMP" LED should go on and off with the switch. If the LED doesn't light when the pump is running or goes on and off with the switch then there is a wiring issue.

The switch itself is an Eaton model E20M11J. A quick search shows it to be discontinued several years back. Specs:

Mounting Means: Snap in rectangular cutout: .508'' Wide x .780''
Nominal Rating Amperes 8A, 1/4HP, 125Vac 6A, 1/2HP, 250Vac 10A, 1/4HP, 125Vac 10A, 1/2HP, 250Vac

This place seems to have some available, there may be others:
http://www.radwell.com/en-US/buy/EATON+CORPORATION/E20M11J

But, in the end it's just a switch. If you're comfortable hacking something in there, just about anything will work.

The water level monitor should light up when the second switch (Monitor) is pressed, only while the switch is held in. If the tank water is too "clean" the circuit won't work. A couple of pinches of salt added to the tank will help.

 

[The Fawker]

Here's how the panel is wired in my '04 Hawk, yours is probably very similar. Note the wire colors (xxx) are different on the camper side of things. The +12V (Brown) is from the fuse panel, +12VS (Violet) goes to the pump. Sorry about my scribbles!

HawkSchem-2r.jpg

The pc board doesn't control the pump at all, just the switch. A stuck switch is the most likely problem, provided a previous owner didn't "fix" something in the wiring. So, I would start looking at the switch and associated wires. The "PUMP" LED should go on and off with the switch. If the LED doesn't light when the pump is running or goes on and off with the switch then there is a wiring issue.

The switch itself is an Eaton model E20M11J. A quick search shows it to be discontinued several years back. Specs:

Mounting Means: Snap in rectangular cutout: .508'' Wide x .780''
Nominal Rating Amperes 8A, 1/4HP, 125Vac 6A, 1/2HP, 250Vac 10A, 1/4HP, 125Vac 10A, 1/2HP, 250Vac

This place seems to have some available, there may be others:
http://www.radwell.com/en-US/buy/EATON+CORPORATION/E20M11J

But, in the end it's just a switch. If you're comfortable hacking something in there, just about anything will work.

The water level monitor should light up when the second switch (Monitor) is pressed, only while the switch is held in. If the tank water is too "clean" the circuit won't work. A couple of pinches of salt added to the tank will help.

This was super helpful. Thanks for the write up; I'll take a look and see what I can figure out.