2017 Tundra Limited with 2011 Hawk - the trip home

2thdr

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We're now official with a new to us 2011 Hawk on our new 2017 Tundra Limited 4x4 double cab.
 

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Two back to back trips up to Bellingham, Washington from our home in Oregon were needed. The trip home yesterday was a little dicey due to mother nature laying down some icy conditions on I-5 south of Bellingham. Saw at least a dozen slide-offs and some roll overs. Tundra performed like a champ. I added Firestone Ride-Rite airbags, but I'm still running the stock tires aired up to 45/40 PSI until summer at least. They are fine for pavement IMO. The original owner helped me attach tie downs to my bed and he gave me a rubber mat to lay down over my spray-in bed liner. The Hawk fits the Tundra like a glove with little space between the wheel wells and over the bed rails and cab.
 

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The original owner, in five years of ownership never drained the water tank and water heater to winterize. I was amazed that the water tasted fresh, with absolutely no odor. I think it is a testament to the quality of the water in Bellingham and their mild climate I guess? Anyway with 20 degree temps the night we took delivery, and not having tools or knowledge of the systems, I ran the furnace overnight to keep everything from freezing. When I got home I drained the water heater by removing the plug and drained the water tank by a combination of running the tap and the exterior drain spigot. I'm not sure how to get the water out of the plumbing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fortunately the weather has warmed up a bit here.
 
Bill D said:
There are products on the market pre-icer and de-icer sprays that prevent ice from forming on windshields.
This might work well on the back of the panels.
2thdr said:
The original owner, in five years of ownership never drained the water tank and water heater to winterize. I was amazed that the water tasted fresh, with absolutely no odor. I think it is a testament to the quality of the water in Bellingham and their mild climate I guess? Anyway with 20 degree temps the night we took delivery, and not having tools or knowledge of the systems, I ran the furnace overnight to keep everything from freezing. When I got home I drained the water heater by removing the plug and drained the water tank by a combination of running the tap and the exterior drain spigot. I'm not sure how to get the water out of the plumbing. Any ideas would be appreciated. Fortunately the weather has warmed up a bit here.
You can either add RV anti freeze to the tank, put the w/heater on bypass, then pump the antifreeze through the lines. Or you can get a plug that goes on the city water connection and use compressed air to blow the water out. If you blow it out, be sure to get the water out of the pump. That can be done by disconnecting the discharge side and running the pump (after the tank and lines are blown out). There will be a cup or two of water that you'll need to catch.

And, congrats!
 
Couple of things to check on....

FWC does not recommend draining the hot water heater by removing the [white on mine] plug on the outside of the heater; nor does the manufacturer...this is assuming your heater is the same as I have in a '16 Hawk...in mine there is a valve [under the water pump] in the water lines to drain the heater water back into the main water tank and then out the spigot at the rear of the camper..

If you are concerned with residual water in the plumbing; you can buy adapters to blow air through the system...I believe the general belief is that using air to blow out the very small amount of water is not necessary...again call FWC

FWC also recommends not having a mat under the camper in the bed of the truck....with a spray in liner you have all the friction you need; they recommend the spray in liners as an option... varying opinions on this...

Check with FWC on these items ...give the factory a call.

Enjoy you new camper!

Phil
 
Congrats.
Nice combo, the fit is perfect.
Looks like a nice full load on the Hawk and your truck is a beauty.

It looks like you will benefit from removing the jacks based on your stock truck mirrors.
It only takes 10 minutes to put them back on if needed and it gives a great weight savings.

BTW, glad you made it home safe!
 
Another Tundra/Hawk club member welcoming you!

FWIW, you can buy replicas of the OEM tow mirrors from Rock Auto for a really low price. The OEM units are very nice and very expensive. The Rock Auto offerings are less than half the cost and about ~90% of the OEM quality.
 
wuck said:
Here's a manual for your camper Dr!

http://www.fourwh.com/FWCownersmanual08.10.2011.pdf

However, that manual does instruct the removal of the water heater drain plug which is not recomended by the manufacturer. The 2012-2014 manual:

http://www.fourwh.com/FWC_Owners_Manual_03.20.2014.pdf

Covers the use of the "low point valve" to drain the water heater if your camper has that feature.

Like I posted how you drain your hot water may depend on the model in your FWC; but this is from current FWC Owner's Manual:

"If your camper is equipped with the “Hot Water Heater” it is always best to drain the hot water tank before storing the camper for the winter. Inside the cabinets there is water bypass drain valve that you can open to allow any excess water stored in the hot water tank to drain down in to your fresh water tank. Atwood does NOT recommend that you remove the white plastic external drain plug from the hot water heater in order to drain it."

Hope this does not just confuse matters...that white plug can be bought inexpensively on-line and some have problems getting it in, out and to seal....again for the Atwood hot water heater.

Phil
 
Wow, thanks for the warm welcome and the info. Looks like I will be able to do some work this weekend! Thank you to all that responded.

Sent from my XT1254 using Wander The West mobile app
 
OK, armed with some knowledge and the manual provided by Wuck I was able to drain most of the last bit of H2O from my system and pump. My Hawk has a bypass valve below the pump like mentioned, but instead of draining into the fresh water tank, there's just a length of hose that I could drain into a bucket. I alternately closed off the valve, pressured up the system with pump, and opened the valve to drain...seemed to work pretty good. I'm assuming the system works by positive pressure from the pump instead of a siphon pump...am I correct in assuming that so it doesn't hurt the pump to run it dry? Anyway, I think I'm also going to order a fitting to go on the fresh water fill to apply some air pressure to blow out any remaining thru the bypass. Come spring I am going to use a water system cleaner in hopes of freshening up the tank and lines. Thanks guys!
 
Next question...What type or brand is this door catch/bumper so I can order a new one? The rubber is dry rotted and doesn't hold the door open anymore.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Wander The West mobile app

EDIT: I think I found it... JR Products 10314 - 4 3/4" angled holder
 

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2thdr said:
Next question...What type or brand is this door catch/bumper so I can order a new one? The rubber is dry rotted and doesn't hold the door open anymore.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Wander The West mobile app

EDIT: I think I found it... JR Products 10314 - 4 3/4" angled holder
I think you can buy just the rubber insert. Don't have a link, sorry. Maybe someone else will post it. MIne is worn out also. I just use a bungee to hold the door open against the holder. One of these days I might buy the new rubber.
 

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