Adding a 110 volt outlet inside a FWC Hawk

For me, it sort of depends on what you are already using the propane for.

Without a propane stove and with a propane furnace and maybe a propane fridge... No flame, No CO2, No water vapor inside the camper.

If you have a propane stove in the camper, then not a lot of difference iMHO.
I've left the world of 110 VAC and switched over to propane for various reasons.

Vic & Bombsight will have to say why they want an induction cooktop and if they already have propane units and which ones.
 
I would think that in a colder clime where propane has to be refilled but batteries (with solar) do not it would allow for longer boondocking?
 
I don't fully understand how a inverter works ... but if my assumptions are anywhere close to being accurate, I just want it for when the two burner propane stove is maxed out on usage space ... and when I don't want to get out and start the generator but need more heating/cooking options. To just flip a switch and burn some toast, etc, etc would be much nicer than the pita of a generator.

My original purpose of this thread was to just have a 110v outlet in said cabinet.
 
Happyjax said:
I would think that in a colder clime where propane has to be refilled but batteries (with solar) do not it would allow for longer boondocking?
In a perfect world, but in reality solar isn't absolutely reliable. Weather, shade, time of year, and other factors conspire keep solar from operating at optimal efficiency. With shorter days and low angle of the sun -solar charging is limited in the winter. That aside, water is probably the most limiting factor to boondocking.

Lee
 
Happyjax said:
I would think that in a colder clime where propane has to be refilled but batteries (with solar) do not it would allow for longer boondocking?
My experience is that the propane stove uses next to no propane relative to the furnace. You could cook dozens of meals off one 10lb bottle or propane, whereas the same bottle can only heats the camper for a handful of nights.
 
Bombsight said:
I don't fully understand how a inverter works ... but if my assumptions are anywhere close to being accurate, I just want it for when the two burner propane stove is maxed out on usage space ... and when I don't want to get out and start the generator but need more heating/cooking options. To just flip a switch and burn some toast, etc, etc would be much nicer than the pita of a generator.
In this case, a much simpler solution would be another gas burner, either a backpacking stove or one of the butane food service burners either of which can be had for ~$30. You can also pull the burner/stove out of the camper and cook outside, which is what we do most of the time.
 
Bombsight

Don't take this wrong, but you may have the wrong camper. You seem to be trying to cram too much into a very small unit. The more devices you ad merely makes things more complex and troublesome, hindering your enjoyment of the experience. It is a camper not an RV. KISSS

Just the ramblings of an old dude
Lee
 
Point taken, Power Wagon ... my thinking is, just because its there, that doesn't mean I have to use it or it's in the way. I wont install it if it hinders anything else.

Through this conversation alone, I found better solutions coupled with what some of you guys woke me up to.

Such as these items:
 

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Top outlet is the stock FWC outlet. Only has power if you're plugged into shore power. Lower one runs from the inverter. The switch to the left turns the inverter on and off. Notice both have GFI. Not much gets plugged into the inverter outlet, mostly the coffee grinder and some chargers. The microwave is permanently wired into the inverter.

 
rando said:
If you already have propane, I am not sure I understand the advantages of an induction cook top. What am I missing?
I don't currently have a cooktop in the camper. We cook outside on a super lightweight backpacking stove. Boiling water inside without a flame appeals to the MOST significant other.
 
I generally figure inverter efficiency at about 70% Some may be better, some are probably worse. That number isn't rooted in anything scientific that I can point to, it's just my RoT & seems to be Conservative enough.

I just re-wired the camper replacing everything Phoenix did. It's a wonder it didn't catch fire. Just another snowball in the scheme of life. Did away with the beyond useless and battery damaging ~20 lbs of Elixir Converter and replace it with a simple panel holding one Blue Sea 120VAC breaker and a Blue Sea 12VDC 6 circuit fuse block. When the heater had its weird episode (started to run with the t-stat disconnected!) and pulling ALL of the fuses didn't kill it I knew there were problems beyond just the heater's control board.

In that process I added an outlet for the rarely used battery charger. I connected it to the breaker, Neutral buss, and Ground buss (both buss' stolen from the converter & added to the rear of my panel). No idea how FWC cabinets are laid out, but it was easy to route the marine Romex thru our Phoenix's cabinets. The box, outlet, and cover plate came from Lowes.
 
I found this thread looking for info on inverters.
I have a new fleet coming next month, and I would like to be able to use a small 800w coffee maker without using my generator (shore power) .
so I am trying to learn about inverters, and also looking for which ones to get, or avoid.
 
I have had good luck with my Victron Phoenix inverter the few times I have used it. The one I have (375W) is too small for that you need, but they make larger versions. Although, if you really just want to run your coffee pot, you don't need a true sine inverter, you could get away with a much cheaper modified sine wave inverter, or do away with the inverter all together and use a 12V coffee maker: http://www.roadtrucker.com/roadpro/12-volt-coffee-makers.htm
 
rando said:
I have had good luck with my Victron Phoenix inverter the few times I have used it. The one I have (375W) is too small for that you need, but they make larger versions.
I had the same model inverter Rando. Mine arrived with the wire connector for the external switch broken off, and I fixed that myself rather than ship that heavy item back to the USA and pay customs again for the favor of getting it back after an RMA.

Then it died completely for some other reason. I was not happy with this particular piece of their otherwise stellar gear.
 
That is no good. I have only used mine a dozen or so times to charge my laptop, and it has been fine. Hopefully it continues to work as it is buried under a cabinet and would be a pain to replace.
 
I can chime in here with my two cents, are i am currently planning my FWC build.

Here is the current inverter setup i have run in 3 trucks now with not a single issues and hundreds of uses.

Can be done 2 ways, but both require a second battery:

-Isolator switch, many brands, i use "Perfect Switch" made right here in San Diego
-Isolator connects to alternator on one end and the main and aux batteries on the other end
-Isolator charges whichever battery needs more juice while youre driving
-Isolator prevents load to aux from draining main, ie, if youre running a fridge for a week in the desert and it drains the aux battery, the main isnt effected, and potentially leaving you stranded
-Inverter, many options here. I run the Xantrex 2000 Watt SINE inverter. This will (and has) power a decent microwave, hair dryer, etc..
-SINE inverters are generally more expensive, but have special circuitry in them to prevent damage to electronics, cheap ones can damage sensitive electronics. You'll need to google "SINE vs NON Sine Inverters" for a better explanation, i am not an electrical engineer.

Now.... SOLAR...

My current truck is the first truck i have installed Solar On. I am running (2) 100 WATT renogy panels right to the aux battery.

My truck isn't my daily driver and only gets driven when i am out exploring, at least 2x a month. It sometimes sits for weeks at a time without being started.

With that being said, i haven't shut my fridge off in over a year, and the solar provides more than enough juice to keep the big Aux bat fully charged.

Sooooo... Looking back at the build,,, I may have not even needed the isolator whatsover, the solar has run flawless for 2 years now. The entire aux system could be wired to solar only and be its own entity.

Thats my .02

Happy to help with this, i have no life other than my truck and camping! hahahaha
Kevin
 
So Cal Adventurer said:
Now.... SOLAR...

My current truck is the first truck i have installed Solar On. I am running (2) 100 WATT renogy panels right to the aux battery.
Hope the panels have built in charge controller or there is a charge controller in system between panels and battery. Eventually, uncontrolled solar panels will harm your battery, perhaps, sooner than later.

Paul
 
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