Adding solar to "pre-wired" camper.

drewdown

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Nov 25, 2017
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My camper is only a few months old but I think I'm going to add solar. I'm wondering if there are any charge controllers that are plug and play? I popped off the little block off plate and can see a wire loom with a connector. I'd prefer not to have to cut and splice. I'm assuming beyond the charge controller is all I need is a panel with a compatible SAE connector and whichever mounting system I decide to use. Just want to make sure before I order anything.
 
Plug and Pray? :p

I'm not sure how simple you want it, and what simple is worth to you. Yes, you can get a controller and never look at it. The cost of that is that your batteries are unlikely to survive more than 2-3 years, and the risk is that you will be without power and not even know why.

If you are ok with that risk and ok with buying batteries more often, then sure.. plug and pray.

Otherwise... planning and forethought and monitoring are all needed.

Which way do you want to go?
 
And to ad to Vic.

Have you figured out what is you battery usage, do you have D.C. Only refrigerator. Lots of winter or summer camping. If your demands for battery usage are greater than what you can replace with the truck alternator, then yes solar can help. But you need to know how much solar you need and what is your budget. Go camping and monitor for a while your usage. Some people don't need solar and some it is a nessesity.
 
pvstoy said:
And to ad to Vic.
Have you figured out what is you battery usage, do you have D.C. Only refrigerator. Lots of winter or summer camping. If your demands for battery usage are greater than what you can replace with the truck alternator, then yes solar can help. But you need to know how much solar you need and what is your budget. Go camping and monitor for a while your usage. Some people don't need solar and some it is a nessesity.
I called fwc and they said I’ll have to cut that connector but that it’s really simple. I camp 4-5 days at a time and just use the battery for showers, lights at night and for the furnace. I pre chill the refrigerator on shoreline and then switch to propane. Voltage drops to about 12.3 after a few days. But if I had solar I’d be less concerned with saving juice.
 
Vic Harder said:
Plug and Pray? :p

I'm not sure how simple you want it, and what simple is worth to you. Yes, you can get a controller and never look at it. The cost of that is that your batteries are unlikely to survive more than 2-3 years, and the risk is that you will be without power and not even know why.

If you are ok with that risk and ok with buying batteries more often, then sure.. plug and pray.

Otherwise... planning and forethought and monitoring are all needed.

Which way do you want to go?
I simply asked if that plastic connector was used because it was compatible with whatever charge controller fwc uses.
 
oops. I apologize for making a fuss.

To your question, there will be wires that need to be run, that will come from the controller and eventually connect to that connector.
 
Pic for reference


5FWcOgs.jpg
 
Lots of info on the forum here about wiring, what gear to get, etc. Long story short, get the biggest (size and watts) panel that will fit onto your roof. FWC uses a 160W that is good. Get a "smart" controller and monitoring system, not the ZAMP that FWC is using these days. Folks here are recommending the Victron Energy gear. That would include a MPPT controller, and the BMV battery monitor.

First step would be to install the battery monitor so get good data on what is happening now to your batteries, and can better scale/design the charging solution. PKSY is a good source: (no affiliation or other connections)

https://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-MPPT-10030-Solar-Charge-Controller_p_3666.html
https://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy-BMV-712-Smart-Precision-Battery-Monitor.html
 
The thing in the picture is not actually a connector, it is a Wago junction block (like a fancy wire nut). It doesn't plug into any charge controller - just joins the two sets of wires from the roof top and wall solar connectors to a third set of wires which you would attach to the screw terminals on your solar controller.

So in short there is no 'plug and play' solar controller - they are all about the same work to install. A good choice would be the Victron Smart MPPT controllers:
https://shop.pkys.com/Smart-Solar-Charge-Controllers-with-built-in-Bluetooth_c_806.html

They are easy to configure through the iOS/Android App, no need for a display and lots of folks on here have them so you can usually find the answers you may need on WtW.
 
On a side note but somewhat related.......I had some questions about my Overland Solar controller that I knew Overland could answer. They suggested possibly pulling power to the controller to help me troubleshoot but I first wanted to talk to FWC and find out what settings they input into the controller/display when first installed. I spoke with FWC and they said they do not put any settings into the MPPT controller, it is just set at the default.

Thank you,
Jon
 
FoxenTec said:
I spoke with FWC and they said they do not put any settings into the MPPT controller, it is just set at the default.
That's interesting. Not bad, necessarily. The defaults could be perfect for some situations.
 
rando said:
The thing in the picture is not actually a connector, it is a Wago junction block (like a fancy wire nut). It doesn't plug into any charge controller - just joins the two sets of wires from the roof top and wall solar connectors to a third set of wires which you would attach to the screw terminals on your solar controller.

So in short there is no 'plug and play' solar controller - they are all about the same work to install. A good choice would be the Victron Smart MPPT controllers:
https://shop.pkys.com/Smart-Solar-Charge-Controllers-with-built-in-Bluetooth_c_806.html

They are easy to configure through the iOS/Android App, no need for a display and lots of folks on here have them so you can usually find the answers you may need on WtW.

Thank you. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Sorry for the delay in posting. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip. Camped somewhere new every night and never dropped below 12.4v according to my cheap 12v plug in monitor. This is with one standard deep cycle battery from fwc. I’m just confused how adding solar has the potential to mess up my battery. I have a friend that lives off grid full time and made solar seem much less intimidating
 
drewdown said:
Thank you. This is exactly what I was hoping to find out. Sorry for the delay in posting. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip. Camped somewhere new every night and never dropped below 12.4v according to my cheap 12v plug in monitor. This is with one standard deep cycle battery from fwc. I’m just confused how adding solar has the potential to mess up my battery. I have a friend that lives off grid full time and made solar seem much less intimidating

Have not been able to get back to you as was traveling in Africa.......

I'm glad you got out there and tried your system and your driving was able to keep battery charged, to what level you can't be sure.

But your next step in understanding your system and usage would be a battery monitor. This is really the only way to know how many amps you used and how many went back in when you drove to the next campsite. Your 12 volt plug-in monitor will only give you the current voltage... a value that has no history, just a current value. It can miss lead you as to what condition the battery is in.

I have been using the Victron BM-712, it is just one of the models they have, but it is more money and well spent for the convince of the blue tooth easy set up with I-pad or smart phone.

Those wires you posted the picture are two sets of wires pairs is from both solar plug on the outside of the camper. The third pair runs to the battery box.

Solar does not have to be intimidating. If you decide to add solar then you can make it simple and leave those wires in the Wago connect block connected.

Add panel to roof.

Add a Victron smart MPPT controller next to the battery. Attach the wires to the controller and add a pair from the controller output to the battery. The controller being with the battery allows the controller to sense the battery temperature and adjust the charging profile accordingly.

Here is the only tricky part you will need to understand and verify. The roof and side wall SAE plug in could be wired reversed. Meaning the older factory Zap controllers were backwards. If you find your model is wired that way then you could just note them in the battery box and switch the wires going to the controller, but clearly mark them because you will have the red wire (positive) attached to the negative port of the controller and that can get confusing later in life.

Another option if you have the space for storage is a portable solar. Some come with a controller and some don't. Mount the controller as above and just plug a bare panel in. Panels with a controller just attach the wires in the battery box to the battery and allow the panel controller do it's job.

Either system CHECK AND VERIFY THE POLARITY FOR POSITIVE WIRES IN YOUR SYSTEM!!! And use the proper protection in fuses and breakers in your system.

Added last comment.... There are little details not mentioned as this is a overview of the bigger components in the solar system. As you have more questions the Wander The West pool of people can give you answers and guidance.
 

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