Advice on the Alvord Desert?

[Overland Hadley]

Hi Guys,

After the little conversation I started in the Random FWC Photo thread, I think I would like to stop by the Alvord Desert this spring as I travel out to the coast. It looks like a nice remote area to explore and possibly photograph. I will be passing through in late March.

Any thoughts or advice would be great.

One question I have at this point is can you drive freely on the playa? I have never driven on a playa and do not know what to expect, and I would prefer not to work on my solo recovery skills if I can help it.

Please understand, I do not expect for you to share your secret special spot, I would just like some general information. Drive out here, do not drive here because, that sort of thing.

Thanks much!

 

[Alley-Kat]

You'll be able to judge the conditions you experience when you get there very easily, however driving on the playa is best when it is dry and has been for a very long time.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I think you're too early. You can still see winter conditions in SE Oregon. If you do get a couple of days of sun, there's a good chance of a lot of snow melt/wet. I'd personally not chance it. You will however get some fantastic images of the east side of Steens Mountain. It's a big fault block, steep on that side.

 

[Smokecreek1]

If it's to wet, you can always go to Fields and have a burger and a milkshake-on second thought, plan to go there anyway-for lunch and gas , Just about anywhere out here in NE Ca, NW Nevada and SE Oregon will be wet and probably nice and muddy off of any main road during that time of the year!

Smoke

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

If it's to wet, you can always go to Fields and have a burger and a milkshake-on second thought, plan to go there anyway-for lunch and gas , Just about anywhere out here in NE Ca, NW Nevada and SE Oregon will be wet and probably nice and muddy off of any main road during that time of the year!

Smoke

Fields has the best burgers and shakes for 50 miles.

Fields has the only burgers and shakes for 50 miles.

 

[ski3pin]

Fields has the best burgers and shakes for 50 miles.

Fields has the only burgers and shakes for 50 miles.

Someday I hope to find out for myself!

 

[Smokecreek1]

Ski-Make it a full 4 star dinning trip, and stop by Gerlach and have some liver and onions or stuffed trout at Bruno's on your way south/north-hmmmm !-Maybe we can start new tr called great places to eat on the edge/interior of the Great Basin/Plateau. No hijack here , just a thought!

Smoke

 

[craig333]

This spot

Not far from

Should be okay in March I think though maybe not if its recently rained. Gives a nice view.

 

[ntsqd]

The thing to be careful of with playas & dry lake beds is that they can be dry and cracked on top and 3 inches down be muddy. That dry top won't support much weight. Used to see it every Spring as a kid. The debris basins around here would dry up and guys would think that they could go play on them, only to sink their rigs to the axles and get both an expensive tow and a ticket. I clearly recall as a kid riding my pre-BMX bike right out to a sand rail stuck near the center of one. The edges dry faster than the centers because they're thinner. Can run around the edges long before you can cross them.

 

[Overland Hadley]

You'll be able to judge the conditions you experience when you get there very easily, however driving on the playa is best when it is dry and has been for a very long time.

Good advice. Early spring might not be the time to romp around the playa with a 6,000lb truck. Thanks.

 

[Overland Hadley]

You will however get some fantastic images of the east side of Steens Mountain. It's a big fault block, steep on that side.

That is as intriguing to me as the playa. Any good location suggestions for looking across the valley/playa to the mountains? I see the main road is on the mountain side of the valley, might be nice to get some elevation on the other side looking across.

 

[Overland Hadley]

If it's to wet, you can always go to Fields and have a burger and a milkshake-on second thought, plan to go there anyway-for lunch and gas , Just about anywhere out here in NE Ca, NW Nevada and SE Oregon will be wet and probably nice and muddy off of any main road during that time of the year!

Smoke

Due to dietary restrictions (allergies) I can not eat food I have not prepared myself. But I will definitely stop there and get gas. Or were you speaking of gas from lunch? ;-)

Good to know that wet and muddy is the norm in that area at that time of year. Now I am hoping for some standing water for reflections.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I'm not sure which way you will be coming in, but if you come in from Denio, NV, just keep your eyes open. Check out the creeks coming out of the Pueblo mountains, as well as various views of the mountains themselves. Stop at Fields for the afore mentioned burger and shake.

I would continue up the east side of the Steens as far as Mann Lake. Again, check the creeks. Also, look the ranches over. The Kueny Ranch is managed by my cousin's father-in-law. You might see some cowboying going on, or maybe find yourself in a cattle drive going up the road. Mann Lake has a small BLM campground, so it's a place to stay. Boat ramp and vault toilet is about all. I would return to Fields, then head west over the pass to the Catlow region. Go on up to Frenchglen, checking the canyons and creeks.

Here's a link to Berle Stratton's photography on both sides of the Steens, plus a Painted Hills image. He is a physician, good photographer, and I believe he worked the ranches as a kid. In the Frenchglen hotel, there's a Stratton photo of Home Creek. One of my favorites. BTW, John Ross, the proprietor of the hotel is a very good cook. It's family style, and down home, but really good.

http://www.berlestratton.com/wordpress/desert/

Check Stratton's titles for general locations.

You might try to get permission from Stacey Davies, the Roaring Springs Ranch manager, for some access. I have no idea if it would be granted, but the worst he can do is say no. You will pass the ranch south of Frenchglen. Look for bighorns along the ranch properties. Caution coming into FG, very steep descent!

The Steens loop will be closed at Page Springs on the north, and maybe as far in as at the campground on the south. If you can get in to the CG, you're very close to some good landscape. Also a couple of accessible ranches that are photogenic. You might be able to hike in to Big Indian gorge. There's an old log cabin along the trail, and a stunning glacial gorge. Heads up, this is cougar country. No reason to be afraid, just keep you eyes open. You'll see wild horses along the south loop road, and in the open areas back a bit. Don't challenge the stallions!

A bit north of Frenchglen is the Buena Vista overlook. A good spot for panos of the Blitzen Valley. Other places to check are Krumbo Reservoir, Diamond Craters, the Round Barn and area. Stop at the barn gift shop and talk to Dick Jenkins. His family was one of the original homesteaders.

Ok, I'm wearing out my iPad finger... Enough for now. Oh, I lied! West of Denio on hwy 140 is Virgin Valley CG and pool/shower. A must stop. Go find Kinney Camp, too.

A link to a thread of the general area...

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/8873-oregon-and-nevada-loop/

 

[Overland Hadley]

This spot
Not far from

Should be okay in March I think though maybe not if its recently rained. Gives a nice view.

Great! Thanks! Was thinking of heading over that way to see what the views were like.

 

[Overland Hadley]

The thing to be careful of with playas & dry lake beds is that they can be dry and cracked on top and 3 inches down be muddy. That dry top won't support much weight. Used to see it every Spring as a kid. The debris basins around here would dry up and guys would think that they could go play on them, only to sink their rigs to the axles and get both an expensive tow and a ticket. I clearly recall as a kid riding my pre-BMX bike right out to a sand rail stuck near the center of one. The edges dry faster than the centers because they're thinner. Can run around the edges long before you can cross them.

Always appreciate your shared wisdom Thom. Thank you.

As a solo person with no need to go out there, other than to wander around, I think I will plan on staying on designated routes. I just did not want to miss the opportunity to drive around and explore because I was not sure if it was ok or not. Sounds like spring is not the time.

 

[Overland Hadley]

I'm not sure which way you will be coming in, but if you come in from Denio, NV, just keep your eyes open. Check out the creeks coming out of the Pueblo mountains, as well as various views of the mountains themselves. Stop at Fields for the afore mentioned burger and shake.

To be continued...

I will be coming from the south east. I had read elsewhere that some of the creeks have nice hiking along them.

Thanks for recommending the Pueblo Mountains. I was wondering if that was an interesting area. Looks like I will be forced to explore the lower elevations, as this is what the BLM website had to say about the roads into the Pueblo Mountains.

Seasonal moisture often leaves roads impassable until mid-late summer.