Advice to prospects and buyers of campers with compressor refrigerators

RC Pilot Jim said:
Kispiox,

Assuming you ordered your camper with the auxiliary battery system and two batteries, and two solar plugs are now standard on the new models, you just need to buy the solar panels, solar controller, and a 10 amp fuse. as the camper is wired for solar.

The Renolgy panells are $200 each. MorningStar SunSaver 20 L - $87.00 (solarblvd.com). Misc glue, fuses about $25.00 = little over $300.
Aluminum framed panels are about $ 135 each and weigh about 25-30 pounds

I installed the panel on the roof, the controller myself. Guessing a Pro installation labor $75 - $150.

CaptM
Lets round the draw to 5 amps/ hour or 120 amps in 24 hours. One 100 watt panel would replace about139 amps in July and 96 amps Oct - April. as long as your not running any other 12 volt devices within a 24 hour period.
Click to expand...
Where are you coming up with the inflated numbers on fridge power consumption? Are these measured by yourself? The manufacturer claims about 45 watts for the cr65 on 12 volts. Or an average of 1.6 amp/hours at 25c ambient, 1.9 amp/hours at 32c ambient. Based on their numbers, max 4 amps if the fridge is running non stop rather than cycling.

I totally agree withy running dual batteries and a couple hundred watts of solar with a compressor fridge, Im just trying to figure out where you are getting the numbers.
 
On a side note, I've noticed a couple of times that running on shore power at home to top off my batteries with the camper top down and closed up my CO alarm goes off. I'm guessing it's just the gasses from the batteries, but is this normal - or a sign of a problem with one of the batteries?

I have dual batteries, one Optima yellow top and one that came with the 2014 FWC Eagle. I know folks advise against dissimilar batteries, but I've used the Optima before in other dual battery setups without issue.
 
Brian,

I've measured the total amps over 24 hours on my 110 litter compressor fridge (the big one).
It uses about 5 amps while it is cycling.
The total amount of amps during a 24 hr period varies on outside temperature, fridge settings, how many times my kids open the fridge, etc...
But I would say during a day with temperatures about 75-80 degrees the fridge uses about 60-80 amps hrs in 24 hrs.
You are correct that it cycles on/off.
 
Brian,

I too read Dometics specs on that fridge (average 45 watts = 3.75 amps per hour). Without a battery monitor that displays actual amp draw though you wouldn't know what it draws.

Brenda at FWC told me she quotes 4.8 amps or more on the 65L.

How often they cycle depends on ambient temperature. The Dometics are mounted in a cabinet. FWC installs one or more fans to help vent the heat. Many users report they run 75% - 100% of the time.


I got the device amp draw measurements from DrJ from his post "Measured FWC Power Use" : . FWC has them also. Dr J's were closer at hand.

Amp Draw measurement:
110 liter Compressor fridge 4.2-4.8 amps per hour (evidently the 65L(iter) draws about the same.)
(That's the big one that FWC uses)
Heater 2.5-3 amps per hour
Water pump 2.6-3.2 amps per hour
(depending on volume of water)
Old incandescent overhead lights 2.8 amps per side or 5.6 amps for both sides
New LED overhead lights 0.4 amps per side or 0.8 amps for both sides
LED floor lights 0.1 amps
LED flood lights 2.8 amps
Porch light 0.2 amps
(Replaced with LED)
Fantastic Fan
0.2 amps at 10% fan speed
0.5 amps at 50% fan speed
1.5 amps at 100% fan speed
FWC battery sensor, IOTA IQ4 smart charger less than 0.1 amps - not measureable.

Our Engle is rated at point 5 - 2,5 amps per hour. On a 87 degree day, after the fridge had cooled down to 39 degrees. I tested cycling amp draw. Results: in a 15 minute time frame it ran twice for about 3 minutes each time. Averaging that out it worked out to 1.5 amps per hour which is higher than Engles spec of point 5 amps. However I don't know the conditions of their test just mine.

We don't know the test conditions that Dometic used when they wrote the spec. We just report on actual experience. I personally would rather plan on the "pessimistic" (higher reading) reading that way I don't risk food spoilage (and warm beer)

Hope my answer helps.
 
DrJ that is really good....an average of 2.5 amps - 3.33 amps over 24 hours. Ambient temperature definitely affects how often it cycles in an hour.

Do you recall the night temperatures in that test?
 
The day time high as 75-80 and the night time low was around 45.

The camper stayed out in direct sun all day - no shade.
It was locked for the day so that no one could open or close the fridge.

The highest amount of amps I have ever noted is 90 amps in 24 hours.
I have used below 50 amps before on colder days, being in the shade or running my fans frequently.
 
Your low of 45 degrees definitely affects your average. I was thinking about DonC's problem last year and how he resolved it - replacing his 80 watt panel with 3 ea 100 watt panels.

I checked with Stan before I wrote the post and he reminded me there is no average of the number of hours people run their devices or the conditions they are run in. If you're designing a system it is better to have too much charging capacity than not enough especially when your off grid for a week or more.
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
Lastly, wonder where he found the right-angle "SAE" 12-2 connectors (see picture):
Click to expand...
I too could not find the mating RA SAE plug connector. I also wasn't excited about the installed roof SAE connector's ability to collect water around the two connector contacts.

So, I ditched the SAE connectorization and removed the existing roof flanged SAE jack connector. I installed an IP65 junction box in its place using the existing screw hole pattern. Heyco wiring glands were used for a waterproof wire entry into the junction box. The existing FWC roof wiring was long enough to be pulled out of the roof to terminate to the solar panel wiring in the junctuion box.

This junction box now supports two 100W Renogy flex solar panels. If we decide to add another panel to the roof, I will probably add another junction box to complete the wiring within the roof rather than routing the wiring on the ext roof surface.

The junction (or project) box measures 2.52Lx2.28Wx1.38H inch and is lower profile than the roof vents.







DSCF0441.jpgDSCF0446.jpgDSCF0445.jpg
 
Giving "Stalking Light" credit for a contibution from the post "Bendable solar Panels and compressor refrigerators".

I reviewed that thread and he recommended the 60 watt "Powerfilm foldable".

The foldable model is for dry use. Powerline makes a marine product for wet applications called "Powerline Rollable" . Produces 4.6 amps and lightweight 4 pounds. As a portable it might be easier to carry.

Anyone have a
experience with that product?
 
SB_Surf said:
I too could not find the mating RA SAE plug connector. I also wasn't excited about the installed roof SAE connector's ability to collect water around the two connector contacts.

So, I ditched the SAE connectorization and removed the existing roof flanged SAE jack connector. I installed an IP65 junction box in its place using the existing screw hole pattern. Heyco wiring glands were used for a waterproof wire entry into the junction box. The existing FWC roof wiring was long enough to be pulled out of the roof to terminate to the solar panel wiring in the junctuion box.

This junction box now supports two 100W Renogy flex solar panels. If we decide to add another panel to the roof, I will probably add another junction box to complete the wiring within the roof rather than routing the wiring on the ext roof surface.

The junction (or project) box measures 2.52Lx2.28Wx1.38H inch and is lower profile than the roof vents.







attachicon.gif
DSCF0441.jpg
attachicon.gif
DSCF0446.jpg
attachicon.gif
DSCF0445.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks for the idea. I wonder what type of connectors FWC uses when they install the panels. Anyone with FWC installed panels on their camper?
 
I have the FWC installed Zamp PV panel. The connection is hidden under the panel near the leading corner of the panel on the driver's side. It appears that the connector FWC installed is the same as the one installed on the rear of the camper.

You can find the 2 pin SAE flat connector at a number of locations. I found a number of hits by searching for "sae 2 pin trailer connector"
:
SAE2pin has some discussion of the connector although I have not ordered from them.

Paul
 
I'm arriving late to this party, and I haven't read all of the posts, but I thought I'd add my 2¢ anyway:

My Isotherm CR130 draws about 5 amps when it's running full out. But that's only when it's running, so it definitely doesn't average anything like 5-amp draw over 24 hours. I'd be surprised if any camper fridge averaged 5 amp draw over 24 hours...unless you were camped in Phoenix in the summer and the fridge was running non-stop.

An amp is a rate of current flow, not an amount. "amp/hr" (amps per hour) doesn't mean anything in this context.
"amp-hr" is an amount. When you multiply "amp-hr" by the "voltage" you get "watt-hr", which is an amount of energy. Considering the amount of energy electrical devices consume in 24 hours is the best way to size batteries and solar panels.

I'm happy with my somewhat-oversized system: 240 watts (rated) solar panels on the roof feeding into 2 batteries rated at a total of 260 amp-hr capacity.
 
If you ever have a problem with a 3way the compressor is the way to go. With all the gloom expressed so far, I am on day 30 traveling, 100w on the roof and driving. I have not taken my 120w solar in a bag out of it's bag
 
I agree with Bill. The compressor fridges are remarkably better than the 3 way fridges in maintaining temperature, increase in fridge space and keeping your propane for cooking and heating, you don't have to be level, etc...You'd be amazed how long propane lasts when your fridge isn't using it.
Once your solar and batteries are figured out, it is a pretty sweet setup.
 
Might as well pile on too. First two years with fully loaded Fleet were frustrating. 65L compressor fridge, Led lights, heater resulted in dead batteries (2) after 3 days on the road despite engine running at least 3+ hours a day. Installed 200W worth of Renogy flex panels and a MPPT TRACER 2215RN solar controller. Result is a "happy camper" that doesn't sweat power. Good discussion on fans...I needed a project to work on for amusement.image.jpg
 
Check out Carmanah Go Power Solar - 160w panel. My FWC dealer made arrangements with FWC to have this system installed when I was having my Fleet built early last Fall. 40 nights out so far from 95 degrees to 30. Both batteries are fully charged within first two hours of sunrise. BTW, the FWC dealer is Adventure Trailers, Prescott, AZ and they manufacture their trailers on site using these panels.
 
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