Advise on future Bobcat build

[Stopbit]

So I have been working on a school bus conversion ( http://stopbit.blogspot.com ) for awhile but some changes in work/life has made me choose to go in a different direction and sell the bus. I traded in my Ford Escape and got a 2011 Ford Ranger 4x4 Sport (4.0L v6) about a week ago. Hope after I sell my bus and m1009 put together with tax refund and bonus in 3/2012 I will have around $12k to spend on ATC Bobcat. I plan to get a set of SuperSprings and upgraded shocks (Rancho RS9000XL). My plans for the camper are alot of weekend trips to Truman and Pomme de Terre lakes, around four one to two weeks trips to Reston, VA for work a year, at least one 2+ week expedition a year to explore and unwind, and of course a Bug out Vehicle for when the Zombies come. Passengers will usually be me, girlfriend, and dog with a few trips for me and my mother. I'm thinking the Bobcat shell would work best for my plans and truck but am open to any advise. Will pick up solar panel and 12v fridge/freezer as funds allow. Current thought on build is as follows:

Options I'm pretty sure of:

Bobcat shell: 6500
Furnace and propane: 850
Couch: 575
12v outlet: 55
jacks: 580
pre-wire solar: 100
awning light/pass side: 45
power roof vent: 275
aux battery system: 375
Additional roof vent: 125
Total: 9480

Options I'm on the fence about:

Cold weather pack: 455
Drivers side window: 495
flood lights: 145
luggage/boat rack: 210
rear wall steps: 175
Small Rear Wall Window: 155
Total: 1635

 

[Alley-Kat]

Things I got...

Power roof vent: I purchased a FantasticFan #6600 and delivered it to them, mounted in the rear position.

Additional roof vent: The metal one that ATC supplies, mounted in the forward, over the bed position, blocks out light, in case you need a nap when the sun is up and you're parked in the shade (to keep cool).

Cold weather pack: Worth it, or search on WTW for how to make your own, a recent thread.

Yakima Tracks, 60": Can use either Yakima or Thule components, which are slightly taller than the luggage/boat rack (which I didn't get), so things on the load bars are slightly above the roof vents. They do have different lengths.

Flood lights: Haven't used them that much, but, handy when I wanted them for short periods of time... they use a lot of amps.

Amber rear porch light: I use it a lot, when the dogs need a midnight trip outside, just right, low amps.

Screen door: Keeps the bugs out. Have Jeff do his "mod" to the black door handle slider cover, instead of getting the clear door handle slider. I did a WTW thread on how to do a screen over the front slider window, look in the threads in Spring of 2011 to find it.

Otherwise, I just got the shell, as I can build the rest of it, pretty much all of the interior, the way I want it to be.


Something I asked for...

Centering of the roof vents. I think it adds an extra roof rib... plus = more strength, negative = a little more weight to lift. However, it allows me to put my two kayaks (or my two lightweight equipment boxes that are low, yet wide) equally spaced towards the outside on the roof without touching the roof vents which are down the center line, especially the fantastic fan that sticks up a bit. Not sure if that costs any extra, talk to Jeff, if that sounds good to you.

I also supplied my own (4) interior light fixtures and asked them to mount them in specific locations. ATC did great. I have these little round dome style lights that use G4 bayonet bulbs, either tungsten or LED (sensibulb - mostly in nautical applications, nice warm yellow tungsten like light - 3,200 degrees kelvin). The one thing that I might change is mount the two that are over the bed a little farther back, so reading in bed is better (we sleep feet forward).

And, lastly I got some marine headliner material, almost like the stuff FWC uses. You'll need between 8-9 yards, usually $8-$10/yard. They installed it great, as Jeff used to do that when he was at FWC.

If you're going to do any building of the interior and you're going to pick it up at their location, it's nice to look thru the electrical stuff they use and maybe purchase anything you like.


Something I should have asked about...

Pre-wire solar: I did have them do the pre-wire, however, I forgot to ask if they did both the positive and negative wires (something I wanted to have, but forgot to think about). On my Bobcat they used the camper frame with a hidden wire behind an interior lift panel from the top to the main frame as a negative ground (probably OK in most situations, just not mine). I ran my own negative wire later. Not too hard to do, but it would have been nicer to have it done by them. If this is important to you, then see if they can do that.


Things mentioned by the ATC crew...

Taller fabric sides and the taller inside lift panels. Makes the overhead cab bed area more comfy to my wife and I. Not on the price list, ask Jeff.

Gas Struts for lifting the roof: Great to have the ATC crew do it right by guys that do it a lot, however, there is a big thread here on WTW on how to do it yourself.

- - - - - - - - - - -

If you can order now, this is a great time of year, as production slows down, and the wait could be short.

They may even have a sale going on.

 

[DirtyDog]

Cold weather pack depends on what kind of conditions you will be using the camper in. Windows just allow zombies more access points and you don't want that. I could live without the flood lights. My advice on a rack would be to get the Yakima mounting tracks installed at the factory and get a Yakima rack later. The Yakima will be quite a bit more versatile than a factory boat rack. I like the wall steps as they are a good place to tie things - clothes lines, dogs etc (please remember to untie the dog before driving).

One option you are missing there that you will want is a screen door.

 

[highz]

Welcome to the forum, Stopbit.

Whatever you get on the Bobcat, you'll be glad you got the 4.0 liter V6 engine. I'm guessing you knew that you would need it.

Ditto on getting the screen door. It's difficult to retrofit, since I think you have to replace the door as well.

If you are ever going to want to access the roof on the road without hauling a ladder along, you will want the wall steps.

There are some good threads on this site about the Arctic Pack and other options.

 

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Welcome to the site.Not sure but when I ordered my bobcat two years ago the screen door and front sliding window were no cost.Ask Marty about that.The steps are a cheep option that come in handy.I had it pre wired, only one wire,the + as they use the frame as the ground.When I installed my solar panel I went with a +and-.I routed them through the right rear corner area of the roof with a loop of wire behind the lift panel.Works great.One thing you can be sure of is that Marty and crew will work with you and try to answer all the questions.I can't say it enough they are service first people.Yes make sure you get either the clear slider on the screen door or have Jeff fix it for you.I don't know why there is an extra charge for the clear,vs the black.Why doesn't it just come clear.

Good luck with your build.There are so many mods you can do to these campers if you have the ability and tools.Check through the threads or ask questions.This group is very friendly and knowledgeable.Someone will always help you with a problem.

Frank

 

[Stopbit]

Thanks for all the advice so far. Will get the Yakima Tracks and drop the extra windows for sure. Didn't list the screen door or sliding front window because I thought they where standard features but will make sure to check and add them if not. Will have to come up with a way to add a basic 110v system since it appears you can't get that on shell model and it would be nice when at campgrounds with 30amp service. The hard part for me will be the wait until March to have all the money

 

[pods8]

Will have to come up with a way to add a basic 110v system since it appears you can't get that on shell model and it would be nice when at campgrounds with 30amp service.


Do you just was a couple 110V outlets, if so just a small distribution panel is all that would be needed. If you want to charge your 12V stuff as well then you can either get a distribution panel/charger in one or a stand alone charger as well. My 2000 hawk just had a 110V distribution panel and nothing charging the 12V side off of it. I just added a stand alone charger that is always plugged in (out of the way) so as soon as I plug 120V into my camper it recharges/floats my 12V side.

On my new build I'm likely going to use a progressive dynamics PD4045 power center. It does both AC & DC distribution and AC to DC charging all in one.

 

[ski3pin]

Thanks for all the advice so far. Will get the Yakima Tracks and drop the extra windows for sure. Didn't list the screen door or sliding front window because I thought they where standard features but will make sure to check and add them if not. Will have to come up with a way to add a basic 110v system since it appears you can't get that on shell model and it would be nice when at campgrounds with 30amp service. The hard part for me will be the wait until March to have all the money


The advise from DD was good. You want to keep this as light as you can so getting an ATC shell, living with it a bit, and then planning mods is a good decision. We bought a used FWC ranger and gutted it. ATC helped much with info, etc., during our remodel. 120V is pretty straight forward to install. We added the IOTA converter with the smart charger. We can plug in and keep the battery topped off. Think about how much cold weather camping you will be doing. The cold weather pack is a good idea - get it now, buy later, or possibly build your own - that'll be your decision.

We have been running our Ranger with the camper for almost two years now. The 4.0 SOHC engine does fine and we definitely like the truck size for the places we go. We added a set of custom Deaver springs and couldn't be happier.

The screen door is standard.

Alley-Kat has some good suggestions and as CERT Frank says, the ATC crew will work with you to get you a great camper.

Welcome aboard here and best of luck with your decisions on your new camper.

 

[Kodachrome]

Double check with Marty or Jeff on the 110V system, I have it and was under the impression it only ran the AC side of the fridge and two AC outlets in the camper. It's handy but I wish it ran other things like fans and heater not to mention charge the battery.

 

[Stopbit]

For the 110v system two or three outlets to handle a small microwave, ARB fridge is AC mode, and a float charger for DC should more than be enough for my needs. I'm sure I can figure it out if can't have it added to my build. Will probably add the cold weather pack to make winter camping more comfortable.

 

[Stopbit]

So the girlfriend is on board with the camper plan. She did lay down the law that it has to have a stove and sink, so looks like I will be getting a full model and not a shell. I was able to sell the bus so already have half the funds i need to order.

 

[pods8]

So the girlfriend is on board with the camper plan. She did lay down the law that it has to have a stove and sink, so looks like I will be getting a full model and not a shell. I was able to sell the bus so already have half the funds i need to order.


Just depends if you like the stock floorplan or what you build your own, etc. But congrats either way!