Already Been Chewed- Trucks

nixfwc

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2008
Messages
174
Location
Chico, CA
OK, I realize this topic has been chewed before but I need to resurface (regurgitate?) the topic. As I am now pulling a trailer behind my FWC Fleet ( certain members of my party insist on bringing allot of stuff and having to unpack the camper in order to get into it is a PITA) I am selling my 05 Tacoma which has been a great truck, and looking for a 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel truck. I would like to hear views from diesel owners what their experience has been. I am looking in the 2002 to 2004 range of trucks, based on what I can get for my Tacoma. What I hear is that Chevys get decent mileage and handle well , Fords are comfortable and well built, Dodges are durable and hold their value. At this point I am tilting towards Chevy/ GMC but there are not many around my Northern CA area for sale in 2002 -2004 range. Any input will be appreciated. Happy New Year to all and great 2012 exploring. Thanks.
 
As the owner of a 2006 Chevy 2500HD 4x4, following are my thoughts.

Cons:

1) The frame rail is low as compared to other HD trucks. This means less ground clearance which you will notice on dirt roads.
2) The independent front suspension means you have to drive slower on dirt roads because the front end tends to drop into dips in the road.
3) Through 2004, Chevy had problems with their fuel injectors. Expect about 100K miles out of a set.
4) The 26 gallon fuel tank available with a 6 foot bed is too small for me.

Pros:

1) The frame rail is low, which means that both the bed height and cab height are low, which means lifting things into the bed are easier, and getting in and out of the cab are easier.
2) The independent front suspension makes for a very nice on-road ride. It handles well and is very smooth.
3) 2005 and up 6.6L Duramax's don't have a problem with fuel injectors.
4) I consider the Duramax with the option code of LBZ (available on 2006 and early 2007 models) to be the best diesel made. They worked out all the bugs from their previous 6.6L diesels before having to add things like a diesel particulate filter or urea injection.
5) The Allison transmission offers the best of an automatic and a manual. I have the 6 speed, first available with the 2006, and it is just as good at slowing the truck as it is at pushing the truck. I've decended 13% grades with little brake usage by selecting a low gear. I have read that the 5 speed Allison is just as good, but it doesn't have the extra overdrive gear that the 6 speed has, which gives me good MPG on the highway. Decending those same hills in a '99 Dodge with a regular, automatic transmission, I had to use the brakes a lot despite being in first gear.

Note that I installed a 4 inch lift and a 52 gallon fuel tank to overcome cons 1,2, and 4, but the lift more than countered pro 1.
 
The Ford 6.0L are a disaster. All other years/sizes are fine.

You have really gotten a good mindset. A 3/4T diesel is like a tank.
You want a truck? That is what it's all about and that type of truck will make you happy. You will not regret that choice!

Also, states now require smog checks on diesels, so if you decide to mod it......be aware.

Don't be afraid to expand you search area. I found the truck of my dreams in Carson City, NV. Bought it, sight unseen, 500 miles away.
A 1997 F250 turbo diesel w/ 113k miles for $9k and that was two years ago.

Very Happy.

~DR
 
I went from a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 to a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Diesel. The main reason I did was to pull my Jeep. The Tundra with the small V8 was adequate for the Hawk, though it struggled on grades. I did not even try pulling a Jeep with it. Still have the Tundra for other uses.

The Dodge has lots of pulling power and the truck is bigger inside. My wife prefers it. I turn on the cruise control and it just goes up the grades. It is solid axle front and rear. Fuel is more expensive. Diesel is the highest. With the camper on the trucks the diesel gets better mileage.

My mechanic friends told me to buy the older models before the goverment went to higher smog regulations. My has very little "junk" on it. My mechanic has suggested Hydrotex Power Kleen as an fuel additive. This is to help lubricate the motor and injectors since they reduced the sulfur in Diesel from 500 ppm to 15 ppm (Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel) in 2006 or 07.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra-low-sulfur_diesel#United_States

http://www.hydrotexlube.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=116&Itemid=162

http://keithbarnes.smugmug.com/Vacation-Photos/San-Francisco-to-Klamath-river/17988298_7j4wHR#1378004280_73RFKhQ

http://keithbarnes.smugmug.com/Vacation-Photos/Santa-Barbara-to-San-Simeon/14264749_GZ35q6#1064647712_VWoEM
 
As the owner of a 2006 Chevy 2500HD 4x4, following are my thoughts.

Cons:

1) The frame rail is low as compared to other HD trucks. This means less ground clearance which you will notice on dirt roads.
2) The independent front suspension means you have to drive slower on dirt roads because the front end tends to drop into dips in the road.
3) Through 2004, Chevy had problems with their fuel injectors. Expect about 100K miles out of a set.
4) The 26 gallon fuel tank available with a 6 foot bed is too small for me.

Pros:

1) The frame rail is low, which means that both the bed height and cab height are low, which means lifting things into the bed are easier, and getting in and out of the cab are easier.
2) The independent front suspension makes for a very nice on-road ride. It handles well and is very smooth.
3) 2005 and up 6.6L Duramax's don't have a problem with fuel injectors.
4) I consider the Duramax with the option code of LBZ (available on 2006 and early 2007 models) to be the best diesel made. They worked out all the bugs from their previous 6.6L diesels before having to add things like a diesel particulate filter or urea injection.
5) The Allison transmission offers the best of an automatic and a manual. I have the 6 speed, first available with the 2006, and it is just as good at slowing the truck as it is at pushing the truck. I've decended 13% grades with little brake usage by selecting a low gear. I have read that the 5 speed Allison is just as good, but it doesn't have the extra overdrive gear that the 6 speed has, which gives me good MPG on the highway. Decending those same hills in a '99 Dodge with a regular, automatic transmission, I had to use the brakes a lot despite being in first gear.

Note that I installed a 4 inch lift and a 52 gallon fuel tank to overcome cons 1,2, and 4, but the lift more than countered pro 1.


I would agree with this (for the most part). ;)

I had both a 2002 F350 7.3/6spd manual, bought it new. It was a crewcab/lwb, so it was the titanic when it came to turning. I sold my built Landcruiser 80 series because I wanted more comfort when camping. I picked up a 2007 2500hd Classic with the LBZ/Allison combo. I sold my Lance camper and Ford. I love the Chevy. On or offroad the chevy rides/drives sooo much better. The IFS allows me to maintain a higher speed offroad and it is just less fatiguing overall to drive.

It does sit low, but I have only found that to be a problem on limited occasions (factory skid plate is no longer straight/flat, but larger tires are on the way.

If you keep it at 69 mph, I was managing 16.5 mpg with the Hawk on my trip this weekend. I averaged just over 14mpg offroad.

I used to be against the IFS, and it does need some beefing, stronger steering parts mainly, but other than that, it is so much better to drive. And it will take a truck this size anywhere it will fit.

Jack
 
Keith,
Have you notice an improvement in your fuel economy with the Hydrotex?


I have not noticed much but I drive the truck so little that I have not been able to do a good test. My mechanic said it was mainly for keeping the injectors clean and increasing the lubricity that was reduced by decreasing the sulfur content so much. 500 ppm to 15 ppm = 97% reduction.
 
I hate to entertain the subject of oils and additives... However, I will offer this:

http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

I use ashless TC-w3 2 cycle oil in my fuel (gallon jug from Wally), for extended injector life.

DR
 
I hate to entertain the subject of oils and additives... However, I will offer this:

http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf

I use ashless TC-w3 2 cycle oil in my fuel (gallon jug from Wally), for extended injector life.

DR


I added the additive note because I see it as a cost of ownership for a new diesel owner. Perhaps we should entertain it as a separate post. That being said I saw the research paper as I was studying the subject. What I found out was all the products available at my local auto stores were the additives that made things worse. Go figure. I have considered the boat oil as an additive and may go to it when my current supply is gone.

I actually sent the research link to my mechanic some time ago and he was very intriqued and reading it through very carefully.
 
I have a 2002 Chevy 2500HD with the Duramax and Allison transmission - it is a great truck. I previously had a 1995 Dodge Diesel - the powertrain was great but the interior and ride was just a few steps out of the stone age.

I tow an 8000 pound trailer, in additon to the camper in the bed, and the Chevy does a better job than anything I have ever driven, both going and stopping. And the newer trucks are even better...

I've had very few issues with the Chevy - some front end parts with 150,000 miles on them and a check engine code related to not driving it hard enough often enough.

I change all the filters and fluids myself and do not find it hard to work on at all.
 
I went through this debate myself recently. All have their pluses and minuses. No one is better really.

Chevy - has the nicest cab and nicest ride but front suspension and injectors are to be desired, slightly lower stance, no manual option.

Ford - has a nice cab size but is limited to 99-early 03 because of their horrid engines. Also, comparing Ford to Dodge, the Ford is 18" longer in a crewcab shortbox set up... something to consider if driving in the city a little. Solid front axle, slightly higher stance and manual transmission option. I found the 7.3L powerstrokes to be demanding an artificially high resale. Guys know that they have a good motor and are trying to profit off them heavily. Fords history with the 6.0L has bumped the 7.3L value significantly.

Dodge - I would say the simplest of the 3. Its a little shorter but that is reflected in the rear seats. They are smaller and not as comfortable as the other 2 trucks. I feel they have the best and simplest engine, the engine has the most reliable history especially if unmodified. Of the 3, I think the dodge also gets a touch better mileage but they're pretty close. Be weary of the transmission and a manual is an option. Most compact truck of the 3 but certain things are sacrificed. Interior is most spartan, I'd say par with the Ford. I don't mind though. Watch out for early 2003, they have the smaller transmission, the 47R rather than the bigger/better 48R. 2003-2004.5 will give you best mileage but 2004.5-2007.5 will give you more power but at a little mileage sacrifice.

ALL will need front end work. Chevy will require the most in money due to complexity but all will need it. I've done mine with the T-bar steering and it was a night and day difference.

But, to each his own. I've driven them all, I like them all, its just really preference.
 
ALL will need front end work. Chevy will require the most in money due to complexity but all will need it. I've done mine with the T-bar steering and it was a night and day difference.



I'm not sure there is much difference in front end repair prices between the IFS and solid front ends anymore.

A ball joint swap on a Dodge is going to run you as much if not more than an upper control arm swap on a Chevy. The labor on the Dodge will more than exceed the parts savings versus the Chevy.

Now when you step up to aftermarket parts, lift kits, etc... The Chevy does cost more.
 
I'm not sure there is much difference in front end repair prices between the IFS and solid front ends anymore.

A ball joint swap on a Dodge is going to run you as much if not more than an upper control arm swap on a Chevy. The labor on the Dodge will more than exceed the parts savings versus the Chevy.

Now when you step up to aftermarket parts, lift kits, etc... The Chevy does cost more.


Good to know! I may have been looking at aftermarket supplies when I was first checking the chevy's out. I sure don't want to start a war! I know that in all the 1999-2005 chevy/ford/dodge trucks I looked at, needed some sort of front end work, if it had not been done already. Often times, it needed more work again. Ball joints were done but still needed tie-rod ends. Albeit, doing a front end is significantly cheaper than a tranny/injectors/pumps etc. The stupid power steering pump on my dodge cost more than much of my steering upgrade.
 
Thanks much. All this info has been very useful. I find myself tilting towards the chevy/ GMC 3/4 ton diesels but am still open to thoughts from others. The front end repair info is good to keep in mind when considering the costs of buying a used truck. It will most likely get about 6000 miles a year unless I decide to retire early.
Are there any bed size considerations? My old Fleet fits in my 05 Tacoma with room to spare. Fuel tank size also seems to be question although Transfer Flow is based here in Chico I believe.
 
Fuel tank size also seems to be question although Transfer Flow is based here in Chico I believe.


I have the 47 gallon Transfer Flow tank and love it.
 
Dodge - I would say the simplest of the 3. Its a little shorter but that is reflected in the rear seats. They are smaller and not as comfortable as the other 2 trucks.

Actually when you compare properly the dodge rear seats are actually the largest. The "quad cab" for dodge is the middle sized cab which is compared against the suicide door versions of the other truck which are basically an unusable for seating sized seat in the rear, Fords is the "super cab" not sure what chevys is called. The dodge "mega cab" is the one that compares against the other guys "crew cab".

One of the biggest things I like about dodge is the quad cab, its actually fairly usable seating without the large wheel base extension required to go to the full rear seating sized cabs offered by all the guys. The ford super cab is for storage or short trip seating only. No way I could fit 2 car seats in the back of one of those which I can do in my dodge (seats need to move up a little but at 6' and mostly legs I'm still comfortable).
 
I have an early 99 Ford 7.3 which I bought with 110k for under $10,000 and it now registers over 180,000 without a hitch. Front end just got inspected and is fine, brakes seem to last forever. By adding a DP Tuner 60+, an oversize aircleaner (Donaldson/Ford) and a 4" pipe, the thing hauls ass with the camper on and towing a 10' enclosed trailer filled with 1000+ #'s of stuff. I'm very impressed with the overall power. The 7.3 is easy to work on if need be, Forgot I did replace the torque converter early on, $400 part. Having a long bed I have a 38 gallon tank which I really like. Not a quiet diesel like the new ones and the prices are holding strong for the 7.3's.
 
I agree with Dodge posters above. I'd recommend Dodge, 2003 through 2007.5 (5.9 Cummins). Manual trans would be my preference. The manual trans is 100% reliable. My truck gets driven very hard off road and lots and lots of washboard. Front end is still fine. I did install a BD Stabilizer at $200 which should help save the steering parts. Of note: Fuel tank is a very nice 34 gallons (or is it 38, I forget?). I get 19 mpg with the camper as long as I keep it under 70 mph. That's easily better than 600 miles per tank.

I had a 2003 Ford F250. Terrible suspension travel off road. Dodge is excellent in suspension travel as you'll see it you can bear this boring video: http://youtu.be/dMiVIjvddMs
 
I am new to this forum, but I can add my 2 cents to this thread. I have a 96 Dodge, regular cab 4x4. I agree that it is a stone age truck, but that is one reason why I like it. It is very simple, no electronics, all mechanical, easy and straightforward to work on. The drivetrain is very strong, especially if you get the 5 speed. The autos are weak and you must beef them up if you modify the engine. The truck is far, far from stock. My guess is that my springs are weak, because it just glides over any bumps or washboard roads that I drive over. I don't feel anything, nor does it rattle, not one bit. A downside is that they are noisy in the cab. I have done a ton of work to soundproof the cab and the results were great. I can't complain.
 
I'll chew. I have a late 04 (2004.5) duramax (LLY - same engine as 05). I bought the truck back in April of 11, left on a 'year long road trip/expedition' in August and have since covered over 13k miles. I have a larger camper than the FWC/ATC type - mine is a pop up starcraft. fully loaded with me, my wife and our gear, the rig weighs in right at 10,000 lbs (the truck empty with just me is 7500 - thats what a QCLB 4x4 diesel will get you...) Don't let people fool you that their truck gets 20 mpg. It MIGHT if you drive 55 with the AC off empty in a standard cab short bed 2wd truck with street tires on it. Loaded, our truck has averaged 14.5 mpg (hand calc over 13k miles). I started off looking for a 7.3 ford, then a late 5.9 dodge, but then 'settled' on my truck that was up to 10 years newer with 100k less miles on it for the same price. Not to mention the leather interior, the bose surround sound, the power/heated seats. It seemed that every 7.3 ford I found had 12" stacks and a 12" lift... Go figure, life in the south. my 'mod' list is short: replaced turbo mouthpiece with LLM part - now its 4" pipe from filter, still the stock filter. and a predator tuner on 'tow' tune. That's it. good luck in your quest for a new vehicle. Don't get at quadcab... the turning radius sucks. (yes, my truck is a quadcab)
Back in october on PEI (My wife is peeking out the overcab window to watch the sunrise)
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November on South Padre Island
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Dec in Big Bend NP
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