anchor points on remodeled vintage Fleet camper

[Jakkkoob]

Hi all,

I have a remodeled vintage 8tf. FWC Fleet, late 80s or early 90ies model that I’d like to install onto our 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 ext.cab with 6.5 ft bed.





The original reach through slots that would give access to the tie downs on the truck bed have been covered up during the remodeling done by the previous owner so I’m having to look into other ways to attach it to the truck. The last owner used very flimsly looking eye bolts and ratchet straps.





I am planning on installing happijac tie downs in front and back of the truck and securing the camper with turnbuckles. Now I need to figure out new anchors on the truck itself to attach the turnbuckles too in order to replace those eye bolts.

Originally I was looking for a part similar to in this post:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/18224-new-anchor-points-on-camper/?fromsearch=1

But after inquiring with FWC they don't sell those parts actually and said they belong to a different tie down system. FWC recommended that I install jack brackets and mount an eyebolt to those. Only problem I just realized is that since it’s an 8ft camper in a 6.5ft bed both turnbuckes would be pulling forward since the jacks go onto the corners of the camper.

Does anybody have a different idea on how to actor the turnbuckles on the camper? Your input is greatly appreciated!

Thank you for your time.


View attachment 35664View attachment 35664

 

[Backcountry Camper]

I am not sure if non-Tacoma owners have used the bed brackets but that could be an option(?).
Then you can better distribute your tie downs go internal if room allows for the entire concept.

'todgru' has some photos in this post:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/18309-tacoma-composite-bed-mounting-brackets/?hl=%2Btacoma+%2Bbracket

 

[m.r.h.]

If you want to use the internal tie down system likes FWC does you just need to cut new access slots into your camper. Since you are starting with a blank slate you can put them where ever you want to make access easy. I don't think it shouldn't matter that you are putting it in a smaller bed. You just need to put the anchor on the camper a little bit more forward. I imagine that is what they do when some one calls and orders a Grandby and is putting it in a 6.5' bed.

Last week I ordered new eyebolts, turn buckles, anchors to mount on the camper, and all of the nuts, bolts, backing plates et cetera from FWC. It was $130 for all of it. I am sure some of that stuff that be made or sourced from other places but I live in a small down with limited access so ordering from somewhere is just as efficient.

My camper came with some external mounting brackets, hopefully the photo uploads. I am taking mine off in the coming weeks if you are interested in paying for shipping I will send them to you.

 

[Jakkkoob]

@Backcountry Camper: Thank you for your suggestion. I actually have standard eye bolts in my truck bed that I could attach the camper to. My main 'problem' is that I don't have a proper anchor connection points on the camper itself. Right now, those anchors are by far the weakest point in the system and I'm trying to beef those up. But I should revisit the plan of using the existing eye bolts in the truck bed. They're just very hard to access.

@m.r.h: Looks like you have a similar generation of FWC like us! I also feel ok about putting it in the shorter bed with the tailgate down. The camper is only 690 lbs and I'm 600 lbs under my GVWR. I also started building a wooden frame for it which I'll extend over the tailgate. This is to clear the bed rails, which are touching the camper right now, and distribute the weight more evenly onto the bed and off the tailgate.
Did you already receive the package from FWC? That set is exactly what they recommended me to get also. Would you mind sending a photo of what's included in it? I still can't visualize how the eye bolt is supposed to attach to the jack bracket. But overall, this approach seems safe and heavy duty to me. My only concern was that once installed and tied down to happijacs, the turnbuckles will both pull forward, instead of in opposite directions. I made a quick sketch, the red lines showing the way FWC recommended and the green line showing a 'better' position for the rear anchor, since it would pull into the opposite direction of the front one:



Thank you for the photo you sent. Are you using the first generation Brophy tie downs? Do you not like your setup and that's why you're changing it and ordered the new parts? The anchor you have on there does not seem to be connected to the jack brackets. Is it custom made and just screws into the wood of the camper?

 

[Backcountry Camper]

Originally I was looking for a part similar to in this post:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/18224-new-anchor-points-on-camper/?fromsearch=1

But after inquiring with FWC they don't sell those parts actually and said they belong to a different tie down system.

Not sure if I am misunderstanding but FWC does sell the tie down brackets.
Posted here:
http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/9266-broken-elevator-bolt/

You would need to change their location from the outer camper to inner.
I have done this to my Fleet. Had to cut access doors but it works perfectly
and I feel is more solid/stable than external tie downs.

 

[m.r.h.]

@Backcountry Camper: Thank you for your suggestion. I actually have standard eye bolts in my truck bed that I could attach the camper to. My main 'problem' is that I don't have a proper anchor connection points on the camper itself. Right now, those anchors are by far the weakest point in the system and I'm trying to beef those up. But I should revisit the plan of using the existing eye bolts in the truck bed. They're just very hard to access.

@m.r.h: Looks like you have a similar generation of FWC like us! I also feel ok about putting it in the shorter bed with the tailgate down. The camper is only 690 lbs and I'm 600 lbs under my GVWR. I also started building a wooden frame for it which I'll extend over the tailgate. This is to clear the bed rails, which are touching the camper right now, and distribute the weight more evenly onto the bed and off the tailgate.
Did you already receive the package from FWC? That set is exactly what they recommended me to get also. Would you mind sending a photo of what's included in it? I still can't visualize how the eye bolt is supposed to attach to the jack bracket. But overall, this approach seems safe and heavy duty to me. My only concern was that once installed and tied down to happijacs, the turnbuckles will both pull forward, instead of in opposite directions. I made a quick sketch, the red lines showing the way FWC recommended and the green line showing a 'better' position for the rear anchor, since it would pull into the opposite direction of the front one:

IMG_4960.jpg

Thank you for the photo you sent. Are you using the first generation Brophy tie downs? Do you not like your setup and that's why you're changing it and ordered the new parts? The anchor you have on there does not seem to be connected to the jack brackets. Is it custom made and just screws into the wood of the camper?

gallery_9228_1331_71219.jpg

Our campers seem to be from a similar era. Mine is an 86 Keystone. When I got it those black brackets were what was used to tie the camper down, with happijacs I think. I got the Brophy tie downs to get my camper home and thinking maybe they were going to work as a long term tie down method. However, where the brackets on my camper are located, and where the stake pockets on my truck are, I don't think it is a good fit. Similar to your drawing things weren't being pulled how FWC recommends. I could have moved the brackets on my camper I suppose but, I will likely take the camper on and off sort of often. When the camper is off I will have a fiberglass canopy on and the Brophy tie downs have to come off. I felt over time that was going to become very week.

The brackets on the camper are just bolted into the wood of the camper, not sure if there is a support plate or anything. They are covered up by carpet and I haven't taken it off yet. Since they were on the camper when I got it I don't really know too much more.

I decided to go with the FWC parts because it looks a little cleaner and I could do it myself. It also seemed a little less invasive compared to the happijac system. Seems like there is a little more hardware in the front of the bed that is always going to be there (I could be wrong about this, just going off a friend's set up in his truck). Also seems like more modern day truck beds aren't as strong and stake pocket tie downs can bend truck beds and such. As much as I would love a reason to put a SherpTek flat bed on my truck I am going with FWC tie down parts for now.

My package is schedule to be delivered today. When it arrives I will share the contents. Also will share the install process as well. I need to cut 2 access doors in the rear of my camper because they were left out when the floor was upgraded. Going to install hopefully next week? Have a busy couple of weeks and the camper is just hanging out on a stand for now.

 

[Jakkkoob]

Thank you both Backcountry Camper and m.r.h. for your detailed input. Lots of food for thought here. I will have a closer look at my setup in the next days and will decide on which way to move forward.

Backcountry Camper, you got it right, those anchor points are exactly what I tried to purchase from FWC but Aaron from their service department said they don't sell those parts (anymore?). Pretty amazing that they're still so responsive though considering that I'm looking for parts for a 30 year old camper.
Following your link http://www.wanderthe...-elevator-bolt/ I'm finding this solution too which seems super solid: http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/4725-tore-out-mounting-tiedown-on-camper/page-3

m.r.h. Thanks for sharing your experience with Brophy. I believe the newer version of Brophies does not go into the stake pockets anymore but clamps the bed walls and bed railing ... might look a bit more into those https://www.etrailer.com/Camper-Tie-Downs/Brophy/HSSF.html
It'd be amazing if you could share the contents of the FWC kit you ordered, very curios what's actually in the box and how it's supposed to be installed.

I'm getting a feeling for what's out there and now need to make a call what works best for my setup. So great to have your guy's input and shared experience. This is what I'm considering right now:

Anchors
- another attempt of locating a set of these: http://www.wanderthe...-elevator-bolt/
- or something like this http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/4725-tore-out-mounting-tiedown-on-camper/page-3

Tie downs
- Brophy new style bed clamping
- Happijac
- mounted directly to the bed with tacoma stye frame, existing eye bolts in corners of bed or newly drilled anchors like FWC would put in when installing a new camper
- Forklift too expensive and not needed in my situation I don't think, dealing 700 lbs camper, would rather go with Happijac

 

[m.r.h.]

Well it was the smallest, heaviest, $130 box I have received in a while.

Inside it contains.....

4 camper anchors with nuts and bolts (I think these are a new-ish style, old style referred to as elevator bolts)
4 backing plates for anchors (yellow tape in photo)
4 turn buckles
4 eyebolts, nuts, and washers for truck bed
4 backing plates

First impressions...

I thought the eyebolts were going to be bulkier. They seem ver solid I just thought they would be larger I guess. The turn buckles having open hooks. I knew that is what I was getting but I am very curious as to why they use those. Closed ends and the use of quick links seems like it would be stronger and wouldn't have to opportunity to unhook. If anyone has some numbers or knowledge behind that I would greatly appreciate it. The anchors that go on the camper seem bomber and straight forward. They also seem to look a little classier than just having eyebolts .

Unfortunately, I have a busy next couple of weeks with family coming into town followed by a read trip without the camper. So getting everything installed might be a little bit.

 

[Jakkkoob]

very interesting m.r.h. thanks for sharing the contents of that package. I'll do a trip to the local hardware store and see if I can piece things together, since I would probably only need the camper anchors, not the ones that go into the truck bed. If not, I'll get that set ordered from FWC.

 

[m.r.h.]

My pleasure Jakkkoob. FWC charges $55 for just the camper mounts, plates, and nuts/bolts. That seemed pretty fair to me. I am interested to see what you come up with.

 

[Desheezy]

My '83 Fleet flew off on the freeway a week after purchase because the seller installed it with only two ratchets in the back, connecting my truck bed bolts to the d-rings he had drilled into old, weak, splintering wood.

Few months later, I managed to get it out of the yard and into my yard, replaced one side of the floor pack, and working on the other side today. AFter I paint the wood, I'll re-attach the 3 tripod jacks (it was designed that way and I don't want to spend the money for a 4th jack right now). I'll probably put a plate on the interior side of each of those for stability.

Then, I'm getting a friend to cut me 8 steel plates to sandwich the 4 corners for GRADE 8 BOLTS like what you see in the link below:

http://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/topic/4725-tore-out-mounting-tiedown-on-camper/page-3

I'll have those 4 corners attached to the bolts in my truck bed with turnbuckles, and then use ratchets to connect the three jackstand mounts to the frame of my truck. A guy at the tow yard I picked it up from secured it to my truck that way- two ratchets on the single mount on the driver side going opposite directions, and hooking to the frame, and one ratchet each on the two mounts on passenger side, hooking to the frame. And it seemed sturdy enough... for being attached to rotted wood, but now with fresh wood, an interior plate on each mount, and the four corners sandwiched and secured, it should never fly off again!

I sure hope not. THat was a sad day, BUT I've learned a LOT since. I'll be posting my re-build soon.

 

[shellback]

I have a 1979 Grandby 8 footer that I rebuilt completely. I use the Happijac mounts on my truck and Torklift Fastguns. When I built the camper I mounted 4"angle aluminum brackets under the wings in a position to pull forward on the front and aft on the rear mounts. The angle brackets are through bolted to the aluminum frame and also the plywood wing material. I used this system because my wife is handicapped and I remove the camper at each campsite for her access. I do have electric remote control jacks to speed the process. Here's a picture.

 

[m.r.h.]

I got to my install this evening. Things well pretty well, minus the bolts that hold the new tie downs to the camper were too short. I am a little confused as to why but there is some extra ply wood in places. I will get some longer bolts tomorrow and finish things off. Everything is measured out to drill into my truck bed tomorrow. I will post some photos once it is all finished up.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I suspect the extra plywood is used as a backing plate to help distribute the forces from the turnbuckles.

I got to my install this evening. Things well pretty well, minus the bolts that hold the new tie downs to the camper were too short. I am a little confused as to why but there is some extra ply wood in places. I will get some longer bolts tomorrow and finish things off. Everything is measured out to drill into my truck bed tomorrow. I will post some photos once it is all finished up.

 

[m.r.h.]

I was thinking the same thing but strange that it runs along the entire length of the camper. Really helps distribute forces I guess. There was also some extra/back up plywood in places where the floor pack had been re-done so it would fit in a modern truck. It was nice to finally start digging into the camper and some remodel ideas have been going through my head.

 

[m.r.h.]

So I finally got time finish installing the hangers on the camper and eye bolts in my truck. I had to do a little demo (pulling back some carpet and cutting holes) but things went "smooth" until I went to turn buckle everything into to place. Keep reading to learn more.

Explaining in words is tough so hopefully the photos will help as well. The photo shows the front of my camper where I drilled holes for the plates. You can see the old hangers still installed. The hardest part was lining things up from the inside of the camper so the external part of the hanger sits close to the camper. See the second photo it should make sense. I have very very very little clearance with a newer truck and an older wide camper.

This photo shows you the access door I made. Pretty scary putting a big hole on your camper. My jig saw skills could use some work but it works. Also you can see the location of the hanger needing to be as close to the side of the camper as possible.

The install of the eye bolts on the truck was straight forward. The hardest part I ran into is getting the eye bolts as close to the edge of my truck bed as I wanted. Under the truck there is as weird ridge that was in the way. So I had to move the eye bolts in a little bit. Which I thought was going to be fine until I put my camper on......

Many of you know this but modern truck beds aren't perfect rectangles (the tail gate is a little bit more narrow than up front near that cab) My eye bolts were drilled and just so happen to be the exact width of my camper. When I backed my truck into the camper and lowered it down I learned this. Also this narrow part of the truck bed meant I didn't have enough room between the camper and bed rail to hook the turnbuckle.

So now I need to drill some new holes in my truck bed. Also going to a fab shop to see if they will make me new hangers that hang down an extra 2.5-3 inches so I can get the turn buckle hooked.

This project has had it bumps, but now I know that I need to replace my lift panel (some of the rivets are popping) and find a very small leak in my roof. Good thing it hasn't started raining or snowing yet.

 

[Vic Harder]

good pics and write-up. Instead of getting new hangers made, consider using some caribiners or quick connects.

 

[m.r.h.]

I tried to squeeze some quick links in there but there wasn't enough room for them with the bed rail being so close. I thought about adding the length via some tubular webbing loops but that seemed slightly temporary. Since the edges on the hanger are squared off the webbing would wear down with time. Don't want to have to write a post about my camper flying off while cruising down the highway. I put lots of thought into other options and adding length to the hangers seemed like the best option.

 

[m.r.h.]

So it has been a while but I had some new hangers made. They charged me maybe $20 for the two? I don't know as I had a bunch of other welding done on some stuff and it was just all rolled in.

These are a copy of what FWC send me, with 3 inch extensions. My camper fits my bed very very snugly (you will see in the photos some scraps in the paint on the camper from baking into and pull out from the camper. I have learned many lessons on precision backing and raising my camper up a bit extra to make it easier) and since it isn't a perfect rectangle the hangers got in the way of the bed rails. It was so tight that quick connect didn't fit.

I installed these a while ago and got it all connected to my truck and forgot to take a photo. Took my camper off yesterday and remember to snap this to share.