Been a fan of this site for awhile and learned alot from the various posts. I bought a 8 footer nco a year ago and have finally found the time and space to work on it. I have been getting parts here and there and hope to get it road ready by spring. It took awhile to find one near Chicago but persistence pays off and I found one a couple of hundred miles away . It was missing one of the hyd. rams but I located a replacement. Going through the unit I found the original oweners name and I called him in Iowa and talked about his travels through Canada fishing. Its been from Vancouver to Nova Scotia . My goal is to use it for a remote hunting base and I will keep it mostly original with modern upgrades. I currently run a Ford F150 that I would like to use,although some suggest a larger rig and airbags. Still dont have the anchoring system down yet, but thats down the line I suppose. Its going to be used for hunting so any other guys recommend hunting related mods? Thanks, Bob.
another lurker coming out of the closet
- Thread starter bob welsh
- Start date
Overland Hadley
Contributors
Welcome Bob.
SunMan
King Taco
Welcome aboard!
EdoHart
Grasshopper
Welcome aboard Bob. What is an nco?
Buckwheat
Senior Member
What is an nco?
None cab over.
Welcome. A heater was a nice add for me.
None cab over.
Welcome. A heater was a nice add for me.
MikeDahlager
Senior Member
Welcome to our forum! Post pictures of your rig. We LOVE pictures.
I share your pain on the 1/2 ton truck issue. I have a half ton Dodge and it is a real load with my 8' NCO. Add the boat behind and I get 7-8 mpg. Looking for a 1 ton Dodge this spring.
One piece of advice (I tell this to all newbies). Install a CO2 detector and test it before every trip.
Mike
I share your pain on the 1/2 ton truck issue. I have a half ton Dodge and it is a real load with my 8' NCO. Add the boat behind and I get 7-8 mpg. Looking for a 1 ton Dodge this spring.
One piece of advice (I tell this to all newbies). Install a CO2 detector and test it before every trip.
Mike
Welcome to our forum! Post pictures of your rig. We LOVE pictures.
I share your pain on the 1/2 ton truck issue. I have a half ton Dodge and it is a real load with my 8' NCO. Add the boat behind and I get 7-8 mpg. Looking for a 1 ton Dodge this spring.
One piece of advice (I tell this to all newbies). Install a CO2 detector and test it before every trip.
Mike
The CO2 detector is on the list. I read some older posts Mike, and it looks like you do a fair amount of hunting with your rig. Did I read you took out the closet and refridgerator ? I was looking at that as an option. Im going to pull a boat and since my tailgate will be down I will need some kind of tounge extension . Any ideas? bob
I share your pain on the 1/2 ton truck issue. I have a half ton Dodge and it is a real load with my 8' NCO. Add the boat behind and I get 7-8 mpg. Looking for a 1 ton Dodge this spring.
One piece of advice (I tell this to all newbies). Install a CO2 detector and test it before every trip.
Mike
The CO2 detector is on the list. I read some older posts Mike, and it looks like you do a fair amount of hunting with your rig. Did I read you took out the closet and refridgerator ? I was looking at that as an option. Im going to pull a boat and since my tailgate will be down I will need some kind of tounge extension . Any ideas? bob
Rusty
Senior Member
Welcome Bob....
Say, before you put alot of time and energy into a half ton P/U seriously consider uping to a 3/4...your life will become much easier and you won't need someone to wipe the sweat from your brow on those dicey roads....air bags just make life that much nicer
I'm thinking you guys are talking about CO detectors....right?
If you're using one of the older units with it's original refrigerator...they used to cut out the back of the cabinet and screen it (to keep the bugs out)....right into the camper
....gas refers need to be vented to the exterior...It can be done...it's a little tricky, but it works
Say, before you put alot of time and energy into a half ton P/U seriously consider uping to a 3/4...your life will become much easier and you won't need someone to wipe the sweat from your brow on those dicey roads....air bags just make life that much nicer
I'm thinking you guys are talking about CO detectors....right?
If you're using one of the older units with it's original refrigerator...they used to cut out the back of the cabinet and screen it (to keep the bugs out)....right into the camper
....gas refers need to be vented to the exterior...It can be done...it's a little tricky, but it works
MikeDahlager
Senior Member
How dumb on my part. Of course it is a CO (carbon monoxide) detector, not a CO2 (carbon dioxide) detector!
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
Attachments
How dumb on my part. Of course it is a CO (carbon monoxide) detector, not a CO2 (carbon dioxide) detector!
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
Mike I like your clean layout. Where the old closet was, did you make the bench with a hinge for gear storage underneath? Is the top of your cooler even with the bench top so a guy can stretch out? So I take it that the camper is mounted on a pickup bed trailer now. If you have pics I would love to see em. bob
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
Mike I like your clean layout. Where the old closet was, did you make the bench with a hinge for gear storage underneath? Is the top of your cooler even with the bench top so a guy can stretch out? So I take it that the camper is mounted on a pickup bed trailer now. If you have pics I would love to see em. bob
MikeDahlager
Senior Member
Mike I like your clean layout. Where the old closet was, did you make the bench with a hinge for gear storage underneath? Is the top of your cooler even with the bench top so a guy can stretch out? So I take it that the camper is mounted on a pickup bed trailer now. If you have pics I would love to see em. bob
If you were to cut a hole in the bench aft of the seating area you would open the camper to the outside. There are holes underneath the seats forward to access storage beneath the seat. In addition, there are holes open to the outside underneath the seats as well. This is sealed by the seat bottom when it is in place. I have never tried to stretch out lengthwise. Always used the forward bed. Currently, the camper is in a storage unit for the next couple of months. I usually use it during the winter after hunting season but the fishing has been so lousy this year I put it in storage until early March.
On another subject......... A very strong run of 314,200 spring chinook salmon is forecast to enter the Columbia River in 2012 headed for upstream of Bonneville Dam. The 2012 forecast calls for 36,400 5-year-old chinook, which which are larger and tend to return a bit earlier, and 277,400 4-year-olds. Four hundred 6-year-olds also are predicted.The portion headed for the Columbia River upstream of Priest Rapids Dam is 32,600, while the Snake River prediction is 168,000.
WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!
If you were to cut a hole in the bench aft of the seating area you would open the camper to the outside. There are holes underneath the seats forward to access storage beneath the seat. In addition, there are holes open to the outside underneath the seats as well. This is sealed by the seat bottom when it is in place. I have never tried to stretch out lengthwise. Always used the forward bed. Currently, the camper is in a storage unit for the next couple of months. I usually use it during the winter after hunting season but the fishing has been so lousy this year I put it in storage until early March.
On another subject......... A very strong run of 314,200 spring chinook salmon is forecast to enter the Columbia River in 2012 headed for upstream of Bonneville Dam. The 2012 forecast calls for 36,400 5-year-old chinook, which which are larger and tend to return a bit earlier, and 277,400 4-year-olds. Four hundred 6-year-olds also are predicted.The portion headed for the Columbia River upstream of Priest Rapids Dam is 32,600, while the Snake River prediction is 168,000.
WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!
caseboy
Senior Member
buckwheat,
what kind of heater did you ad? i have a catalitic that we use at sol duc in our fifth wheel .but haven't tried it in camper yet.
wes
what kind of heater did you ad? i have a catalitic that we use at sol duc in our fifth wheel .but haven't tried it in camper yet.
wes
Buckwheat
Senior Member
buckwheat,
what kind of heater did you ad? i have a catalitic that we use at sol duc in our fifth wheel .but haven't tried it in camper yet.
wes
I installed a wave 3 catalytic heater. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
what kind of heater did you ad? i have a catalitic that we use at sol duc in our fifth wheel .but haven't tried it in camper yet.
wes
I installed a wave 3 catalytic heater. I haven't had a chance to try it out yet.
MikeDahlager
Senior Member
Oz_70
Member
How dumb on my part. Of course it is a CO (carbon monoxide) detector, not a CO2 (carbon dioxide) detector!
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
Awesome Mike, very clean and professional!
e
As to removing the closet and refrigerator cabinet was the best thing for my needs and I have never regretted it. It is much more flexible as to storage and movement inside the camper. Lifting the cooler in and out of the camper is no big deal and in the fall and winter it actually keeps ice forever with no electricity usage. In addition, I found the camper with the storage unit in place to be claustrophobic. Add my wife and it was just too cramped. Even with the unit removed, the 8' NCO requires coordinated movement of its inhabitants.
I am a big believer in bungee cords. I use them to secure a couple of gas bottles just inside the door for travel. I then remove the bottles when I arrive at the site and store them outside.
I purchased a used trailer (a modified Datsun pickup bed), this past summer to ease the load on the 1/2 ton Dodge and that helped a great deal.
I too have to have my tail gate in the lowered position. Both my trailers clear it just fine. However, the more important issue is reaching the the fitting above the license plate to lower the spare tire. It never occurred to me that this might be an issue until one of the members mentioned it. That's another reason for getting a PU with an 8' bed.
I have attached 4 pictures of the inside of my camper. I had the seat cushions recovered with a soft cloth. Much nicer than the electric blue Naugahide. Next, I covered all lower walls and floor with green indoor-outdoor carpet. Very good looking (IMHO), and helps insulate the walls. I bought a stove/oven unit from a guy on Craig's List and installed in the space where the old stove top was. This required the removal of the drawers in that area. I then moved them to the area beneath the sink. This required the cutting a slot in the drawer (I've since painted it), to allow the drawer to bypass the sink drain. No big deal.
Mike
Awesome Mike, very clean and professional!
e
Rusty
Senior Member
Thanks for the salmon tip Mike....5 year olds can call for the heavy line...I may just have to make a trip up there...
Bob,
I found a picture I took of the openings underneath the bench seat. I had a little accident unloading the camper and had to repair the corners. You can see the two openings which are closed when the seat cushion is in place.
Mike
a picture is worth a thousand words, thanks mike. How far do you pull the camper when it is on your trailer? bob
I found a picture I took of the openings underneath the bench seat. I had a little accident unloading the camper and had to repair the corners. You can see the two openings which are closed when the seat cushion is in place.
Mike
a picture is worth a thousand words, thanks mike. How far do you pull the camper when it is on your trailer? bob
MikeDahlager
Senior Member
a picture is worth a thousand words, thanks mike. How far do you pull the camper when it is on your trailer? bob
I guess I didn't make myself very clear on the trailer issue. The camper is still loaded on the truck but I put all of the heavy items (which I normally carry inside the camper), in the trailer to ease the load.
Mike
I guess I didn't make myself very clear on the trailer issue. The camper is still loaded on the truck but I put all of the heavy items (which I normally carry inside the camper), in the trailer to ease the load.
Mike
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