Another securing your Alaskan thread.

[Masonjames]

I know there are a few threads on this topic. I have read through them all a few times, however I still haven't been able to find much information that address some of my questions/concerns with securing the Alaskan. And the net is stocked full of a million different opinions when it come to TC's.

Camper is 64 or 65 NCO. Completely rebuilt so is structurally sound. Truck is a 1995 Ford F-250 regular cab long box. Camper to be perementaly left on truck so don't need to worry about ease of loading, unloading.

The truck and camper will be used mostly for off highway use. Backcountry camping, fishing, hunting. No extreme off-roading, but rough service roads, random dirt roads in the hills etc.

I want to use the bolt down method to secure the camper to the truck. Don't want to use happijacks, torklifts, turnbuckles etc, if at all possible. My only concern (i blame the internet) with any mounting method, most specifically the bolt down method is chassis flex and wether I'm going to start tearing my camper apart by using it as I intend to. Apparently these 90,s Fords have some major frame flex. This is my first camper. So I have no experience and limited knowledge with using TC's.

So I'm hoping some people can share some real world experience they have had with theirs or others makes, using the bolt down method or who have abandoned the bolt down method and offer me some direction and advice. Especially welcome if you use them off the beaten path.

Questions

Is bolting directly to the bed any benefit or disadvantage over bolting directly to the frame? Or to the bed cross members?
And would bolting to the frame increase the amount of forces applied to the camper from chassis flex over bolting to the bed, or should it be someone equal since the bed is bolted to the frame.

Where is the ideal location for bolting. While considering and trying to lessen the impact of chassis flex.
All 4 corners? Or bolts more centeral and further away from corners?

Would 3 bolts, 2 front 1 back, or 1 front 2 back be any benefit over 4? since I assume 3 points can flex more then 4.

Would leaving the bolts a touch loose help the camper move/give a bit rather then flex a bunch? Or would this just start to destroy the bolting area, camper and truck.

Additionally can I also lightly bolt the overhang to the top of the truck bed wall? With the proper spaced shim in between, and reinforced.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

I can't answer your question, but see this is your first post. Welcome to WTW!!! I'm sure some of the folks with that vintage Ford will provide some input.

 

[Masonjames]

Thanks. Figured I'd finally join the community here since it's been my main go to for information on the TC world : )

 

[PackRat]

If you are bolting to the bed then chassis (frame) flex should not be an issue. The frame will probably twist a bit on rugged unpaved trails but not on the highway and probably not even on dirt roads...off road is another thing. So, if you are determined to bolt the AK to the bed then any amount of "flex" the steel bed might incur would not be a problem for a wooden camper like the AK anyway.

Take a hint from campers that use a four-point securing design and go with that. I would suggest you try to find a location in each of the four corners where a gusset plate can be used to distribute the load. Maybe triangular, square or a rectangle. Maybe 1/8" thick and maybe aluminum.

I would dismount the AK for two reasons....one, to check for any rotten or weakened floor plywood and secondly to see where you can do the drilling but you will also need to check the underside of the bed to insure you have clear access to the bed bottom. The choice of the top or bottom of a "rib" would, to me be the bottom of a rib dead center and from there I would install another gusset plate to span over to the next two ribs at the very least.

Spread the forces of movement in the AK and in the truck bed.

Then you need X-ray vision to select where to drill in the AK and in the truck bed and in those gusset plates!

Galvanized hardware and a sealant in the holes and where the gusset plates go as well. Sounds to me like 1/2" to 9/16" bolts would do the trick.

 

[Masonjames]

Thanks for the reply. I ended up talking with Bryan from Alaskan campers. Super helpful guy. He gave me the confidence to bolt it down. So I bolted it down. Basically identical to the manner you described here.
I'll just keep an eye how my mounting points are doing and make modifications or change things up if I find I need to.
So far so good. Truck barely even notices it on there. We'll see how it does in the hills and if the mounting method is going to be appropraite or not.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Rusty]

Older Alaskan campers were all bolted to the bed when Alaskan delivered them (many are these days as well)...they were designed to be bolted down...all 4 corners. Keep in mind, you're bolting plywood to a steel bed...which one will give out first??? you guess

grannys camper came bolted down with 4-3/8 bolts to the bed of her 69 GMC longbed...6 cyl,3 speed manual with a compound low...she drove it to the day she gave up driving...about 85...a teeny little lady with a heart of gold....driving that clutch

thin strips of rubber glued to the bottom of the camper will stop the shifting and raise it up a bit to avoid contact and trap moisture....I have used 1/4" ply with strips of rubber inner tubes before...currently 5/8" redwood ply plus 1/2" pressure treated ply with old bike tube strips...raises it up just right for air circulation.

Welcome....and best of luck...in california you can apply for a standard license plate and avoid the extra costs of commercial plates when the camper is bolted down to the bed in some way.