I installed 1" closed cell foam insulation. Its rated R6 and Id guess the old fiberglass batt was lucky to be working at an R2. Luckily I have worked with this foam board before so I know the secret to cutting clean edges! It already feels WAY more insulated inside. Im getting pretty excited.
I painted the underside of the floor and both sides of the cabover wood with some crazy goopy paint I got at HD that is supposed to be good at filling cracks and very waterproof because its made for boat docks and things like that. It was about $40 a gallon and seemed to do well on the new 3/4" birch ply I used. I decided not to spring for the $200 a gallon two part epoxy though I wish I would have.
Then I caulked every seem inside with paintable non-silicone and primered 3 coats on nearly the whole interior with good old fashioned Kilz oil based original. I also added a second layer of 3/4" ply on top of the drivers side cabinetry area. There were a few holes from the water system and a small bit of dry rot that I wanted to reinforce.
I wound up pulling almost all the wiring and ditching the entire water system and stove top. Im not sure what I can and can't do with the propane so I need someone to look at it that actually knows about propane heat systems before I fire it up. I ditched the Y in the line that split the stove piping and heater piping and ran a line directly from the tank to the heater. I don't know if this is ok because Ive read that the stove may act as a vent for the system. If anyone can chime in here it will be appreciated.
This is as far as I got last week except for cutting a piece of the old counter to cover the propane tank box and icebox and setting them in place to see what it looks like. I hope to finish most of the interior this week. Up next is sanding and painting the vertical laminate surfaces and reinstalling the bench seat.
I painted the underside of the floor and both sides of the cabover wood with some crazy goopy paint I got at HD that is supposed to be good at filling cracks and very waterproof because its made for boat docks and things like that. It was about $40 a gallon and seemed to do well on the new 3/4" birch ply I used. I decided not to spring for the $200 a gallon two part epoxy though I wish I would have.
Then I caulked every seem inside with paintable non-silicone and primered 3 coats on nearly the whole interior with good old fashioned Kilz oil based original. I also added a second layer of 3/4" ply on top of the drivers side cabinetry area. There were a few holes from the water system and a small bit of dry rot that I wanted to reinforce.
I wound up pulling almost all the wiring and ditching the entire water system and stove top. Im not sure what I can and can't do with the propane so I need someone to look at it that actually knows about propane heat systems before I fire it up. I ditched the Y in the line that split the stove piping and heater piping and ran a line directly from the tank to the heater. I don't know if this is ok because Ive read that the stove may act as a vent for the system. If anyone can chime in here it will be appreciated.
This is as far as I got last week except for cutting a piece of the old counter to cover the propane tank box and icebox and setting them in place to see what it looks like. I hope to finish most of the interior this week. Up next is sanding and painting the vertical laminate surfaces and reinstalling the bench seat.