Atwood heater low voltage

[Robojeeper53]

The Atwood furnace in my 98 Grandby has intermittent starts? Removed burner and spark assembly and looks great. One solution was install “dc to dc voltage converter” to maintain 12 volts if battery was on lower side. Battery will show 12.2 but not sure if furnace at board is reading a lower voltage. Has anyone eliminated an issue by using voltage converter?

 

[Vic Harder]

12.2 is already pretty low. A lead acid battery rests at 12.7 fully charged, 12.2 is equivalent to about 50% (no loads, no charging, at rest for an hour). Your heater will have difficulty at that low a voltage.

 

[Robojeeper53]

Exactly the issue. It was 30 degrees 2am and no generator. Was hoping a constant voltage would help furnace board be able to work better. When plugged in at home no issues but was 65 degrees. Anyone have any other ideas what it may be? The 2 voltage converters I was looking at come in 8 to 30 volt dc input and 12v or 13.8 dc output. Any issue with 13.8 out it says furnace is 12v. But that is what voltage is when charging? Anyway any input? Thanks

 

[Vic Harder]

Older trucks will easily put out 14+V while charging. 13.8 is a good number. 12v is lower than what you are getting now, so, no, 12V won't work.

Another option is the sail switch or excessive dust/debris preventing air-flow. Since your Grandby is a 98, you are unlikely to have the issue newer Atwood's do, with air restrictions caused by the output hose/cover plate blocking part of the air-flow.

I'd look at it as a partial "early warning system". At 12.2V you should stop using your battery anyway, as it is heading into the less than 50% SOC are where you are degrading the battery (especially if it can freeze).

 

[Robojeeper53]

Good idea on trying not to use below 12.2. One thought I had is a dc-dc converted would maintain 12v to furnace to eliminate voltage drop when motor starts and control board does not see low voltage? Try to mount as close to furnace as I can. Not sure if I get the 13.8 converter if it could damage anything in the long run. I’m not electrical expert just trying to not freeze again at low temps and make reliable. Thank for any input on this.

 

[Vic Harder]

How long have you had this camper? Had it been working well until recently ??

 

[PaulT]

Perhaps, a wise early investment would be a battery monitor unit to avoid letting the battery SOC (State Of Charge) get too low on a predicted cold night.

This is something each of us has had to discover somewhere along the line with our new to us camping equipment.
When it still happens, several disposable hand warmers brought into bed can make the cold night more tolerable.
Filling a hot water bottle with hot water & wrapped in a towel is another solution to a cold night.
Make sure you also have a Steak Saver adapter & a couple of 1 lb propane cans with you to ensure remaining warm after forgetting to fill your 10 lb propane tanks.
Yup, if there is a mistake to be made, most of us have made it at the most inopportune time.
Don’t forget that dropping the top & sleeping in stealth mode reduces camper heat loss & allows body heat to be conserved.
Survival trumps embarrassment. We all screw up sometime.
Paul

 

[Robojeeper53]

Exactly! I ordered voltage monitor. Thank you

 

[Robojeeper53]

I purchased 2nd hand,4months ago. this was first shake down trip. Furnace was one of a couple things found issues with. Yep always different ways to stay warm! Those are great things to put on my list. Thank you

 

[Vic Harder]

Sounds like a battery monitor (not a voltage monitor) with a shunt is what you need. Victron makes them, and there are less expensive knock-offs too. And, it may be that your batteries are simply done and should be replaced.