Atwood Hydro Flame 8516-IV Furnace Repair

[ski3pin]

[SIZE=18pt]Our furnace is 7 to 8 years old. We just started to have an occasional issue with the furnace not starting. It would run through the cycle - blower on, click, but no ignition, and the furnace would shut down as it should. Restarting with the thermostat and it would light.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=18pt]Back home, I did a visual inspection. Nothing was obvious until I pulled out the burner and found it rusty with the holes blocked in the area below the ends of the igniter. This looked like a good candidate for causing the issue.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]After a trip to the online furnace parts store, a package arrived with a new burner, igniter, orifice, and sail switch. The burner assembly is easily removed. Unhook the propane supply line (turn it off at the tank first and be prepared for a bit of propane as the line empties), unclip a couple of wire spade connectors, and 4 sheet metal screws.[/SIZE]


[SIZE=18pt]Out with the old, in with the new.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The old igniter had a bit of rust.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The new igniter came with a new wire (no spade connector) and a felt gasket not present with the original assembly. Also pictured are the old/new orifices.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The new orifice installed.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The igniter is installed through the hole above and the two sheet metal screws are the attachment points for the burner.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The new igniter in place. I positioned the ends of the igniter a quarter inch apart and one eighth of an inch above the burner.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The burner and gas assembly ready to be reinstalled. The black wire is the new wire from the igniter.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The burner slides in on the right and the exhaust on the left. I found the screws out of the two holes, bottom right and left, empty with the sheet metal screws rolling about. I replaced them with one size larger (#10) screws and they snugged up nice and tight. The pink rubber cover was removed and the supply line fittings lowered out of the way to easily slide the burner in.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The sail switch is on the inside of the black half cylinder cover. Remove some wires to get them out of the way and the four screws on the four corners. Rotate the cover around and here's the sail switch.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The new sail switch in place.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The burner and exhaust in place. The black igniter wire is attached to the new orange wire from the mother board and a wire tie to hold them in place.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]The cover back in place. The wires attached and wire ties in place to keep it all neat. The new thick orange wire (included with the igniter) runs down to and connects with the black wire from the igniter.[/SIZE]




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[SIZE=18pt]We've run it several times, as we would on a trip. It has started up flawlessly every time. It appears to run great. Where shall we go?[/SIZE]

[SIZE=18pt]I thought this would be of interest, including the photos of the various parts I hear people mention here on Wander the West. I expect that most models of these furnaces are all very similar. Hope it helps and best of luck with your repairs and projects.[/SIZE]

 

[RONR]

What a great post and I’ll save it for the inevitable failure and subsequent repair. It’s important because I still don’t trust the newer units and would rather try a repair before going with a new replacement. Thank you so much for taking the time to give us such detailed report.

Ron.

 

[searching for nowhere]

Thanks for posting this information. I have been having intermittent problems with my 15 year old heater starting. My backup plan for heat was to purchase a Mr Buddy heater. Unfortunately I had to use Mr Buddy a few times on my trip to Montana. You have given me a place to stay looking for the problem. Thanks.

 

[PokyBro]

Ski,

Nice job on the write up for your furnace repair. It was very clear, easy to follow, and the accompanying photos were great. I’m sure many people will be able to benefit from your efforts. Great work, and glad it seems to have resolved the problem. Reminds of your extensive front end rebuild of your truck. A little bit of fortitude and determination often keeps things mechanical running for many more years.

Poky

 

[takesiteasy]

Thanks Ski for this. Very timely- our furnace has just started acting up. I wonder if you could post a link to your source of parts- might save people some searching.

 

[ski3pin]

Thanks Ski for this. Very timely- our furnace has just started acting up. I wonder if you could post a link to your source of parts- might save people some searching.

Al, this is the "tune up" kit I found online -

Atwood Furnace 8516-IV Tune Up Kit

The kit included a new limit switch - placed back in the furnace that turns the burner on and off during the heating cycle to keep the furnace from overheating - that I did not replace. I did not want to dig that deep in the furnace and I am confident our limit switch was operating properly. So I have a spare on hand. The link includes a nice breakdown diagram of the furnace and parts.

 

[takesiteasy]

Al, this is the "tune up" kit I found online -

Thanks!