Auxiliary Battery in line fuses?

[GPAY]

Hi all, I have a 2014 Hawk Shell with aux battery. Battery is not being charged when I drive and have checked everything I can think of. Owners manual says to check the battery in line fuses. No such thing in the battery box. Any idea how I can find them? I do have a furnace and stove that might complicate getting to them. Battery is new. Thank you all!

 

[Jon R]

Can you clarify your overall truck and camper battery arrangement? “Auxiliary battery” can mean different things.

 

[GPAY]

I purchased the Hawk Shell new in 2015 with one 75ah AGM battery. It is in a 2014 Ford F150 and was installed by a dealer.
I have a SurePower battery separator that was installed when the camper was installed.
Everything has worked great until a few months ago when I decided to replace the battery as it didn't seem to charge when I drove and I figured it was time for a new one.. I bought a new 100ah AGM Renogy battery and have had it tested to be sure it is good. It doesn't charge as well when driving.
I done all the tests I am capable of doing but battery continues to drain and driving doesn't charge it. my FWC owners manual states there are in line fuses going to the battery but if so I don't know how to find and access them. If they are not good that should explain why I'm not getting charging according to the owners manual. They aren't in the battery box. If I was at all close to a FWC dealer I would have them check it out but I'm not. Thanks

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Hi all, I have a 2014 Hawk Shell with aux battery. Battery is not being charged when I drive and have checked everything I can think of. Owners manual says to check the battery in line fuses. No such thing in the battery box. Any idea how I can find them? I do have a furnace and stove that might complicate getting to them. Battery is new. Thank you all!

Check around the truck battery. There is frequently an inline battery with the wire that goes back to the Camper. If you don't have a Digital multimeter, you should get one to check your electrical system.

->>>I don't remember where the battery separator is located, but check it.

->>>Check for corrosion at the truck battery.

->>>Check for 12VDC both sides of the inline fuse.

->>>Check for 12VDC at the connector attached to the truck bed (Heads up, I believe that the + pin is alway hot, so be careful to not short between the + and - pins when you put the probe it with the multi meter "Don't ask how I know").

->>>Next step is to check for 12VDC at the camper battery. I would disconnect the negative side of the battery so you are not reading camper battery voltage.

->>>Check the voltage across the battery terminals.

Have you check to see if it is charging on shore power?

 

[GPAY]

Thanks much, I've done almost all of those things with the exception of the truck bed connector and not sure how to check inline fuse as don't know where it is. Unfortunately I don't have shore power so have removed battery, charged and when at 100% reinstalled. Those AGM's are heavy! Camper has only been off the truck once since 2015.Not real good with electrical so can you tell me how to check 12VDC at the battery without using the negative?

 

[tstumpfig]

I had something similar happen to me a while back. Turned out the grounding wire that connected the truck battery to the trolling motor plug had come loose under the heat shrink. Just had to go back and re-crimp and it was good to go.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

To check charging voltage from the truck, with the + lead of the meter, touch the positive side of the battery ( it can also be disconnected, but always disconnect the negative side first) then touch the negative lead to the ground wire. As mentioned above, you might have a loose or corroded ground. Use the ohm meter function to check that. If you’re uncertain how to go about it, I’m pretty certain YouTube will have tutorials on troubleshooting, and use of a multimeter.

edit: your fuse may be masquerading as a thermal circuit breaker that has tripped. Where ever it is, it should be, but may not be, close to the truck battery.

Another thought that may take us down the rabbit hole. Can you tell where the charging wire goes in the camper? Is it straight to the battery, or do both connect to a positive bus, where other the devices get their power. Any fuses or circuit breakers around the bus. Lastly, is your camper battery switch on and working.

 

[PaulT]

--snip--
Another thought that may take us down the rabbit hole. Can you tell where the charging wire goes in the camper? Is it straight to the battery, or do both connect to a positive bus, where other the devices get their power. Any fuses or circuit breakers around the bus. Lastly, is your camper battery switch on and working.

Check this first.

Paul

 

[GPAY]

Thank you, I finally replaced the thermal circuit breaker located on the firewall and things seem to work now. $5 part. Thank you again!

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Thank you, I finally replaced the thermal circuit breaker located on the firewall and things seem to work now. $5 part. Thank you again!

Cool, great news

 

[bike4mee]

If you aren't getting a good charge you may want to upgrade the wire from the truck to the camper. It should be a minimum 6awg gauge. modern alternators don't put out much voltage and you want the biggest wire you can get.
Are you charging an electric frig from the alternator? That takes a lot of juice

 

[Jon R]

If you aren't getting a good charge you may want to upgrade the wire from the truck to the camper. It should be a minimum 6awg gauge. modern alternators don't put out much voltage and you want the biggest wire you can get.
Are you charging an electric frig from the alternator? That takes a lot of juice

The OP said he found an open fuse a few messages up.