Backing plates pulling through truck bed

Sorry for your troubles. Looks like some pretty substantial forces were in play here. I would consider removing the camper and repairing the bed /frame connection. Then build a template to the available under bed bolt down area. Have custom plates built with heavy aluminum plate to span as large of the area as possible. Adjusting driving on rough terrain would help. Good luck going forward on your repair decision.
 
Adventurebound said:
As you can see the bed has broke free from the crossmember...lifted up about 1/2 inch.
Typical truck bed loads are compressive whereas the turnbuckle-to-the-bed solution used by FWC creates forces that try to lift the bed from its support rails, which can potentially lead to the failure you demonstrate here. The way FWC mounts the campers inevitably causes you to constantly chase the weakest link in the chain- look at all of the mounting-related issues over the years, from eye-bolts tearing out of the camper, to tie-down hooks being bent open, to bed damage, etc.

A multi-ton truck camper attached to frame mounts with external tie-downs can ride on a truck for years with no damage- it's all about where the forces are applied.

When mounting my FWC, I use locking turnbuckles and lightly hand-tighten them when installing the camper to allow for maximal flexibility in the camper-bed interface.

As other posters have already indicated, you're going to need to start by fixing your bed and then think about tying into bed support members or the frame itself to keep from doing additional damage to the already weakened sheetmetal of the bed.
 
I think it might be beneficial to send Stan Kennedy (stan@fourwheel) an email and ask him for some info and advice. FWC probably has seen this before, and would have info/suggestions on how to fix it, and keep it from reoccurring.


Adventurebound said:
Hello all. I have had my camper, factory installed, for about 2 1/2 years now. Never had an issue with turnbuckles until this last weekend. Been on some very rough roads before, Mojave, all over Death Valley, random mining roads in Nevada. Today I noticed the bolts in the truck bed and backing plates are ripping through the bed of the truck. Has anyone else had this issue? Hawk mounted on a 2008 Nissan Titan. Please no truck bashers looking for real advice on what to do.
 
Hey, this is out of my league but I can't grasp how the bed of your truck is attached to the frame in the photos...no matter, it is deformed and needs serious repair and strengthening.

If it were mine I would not just repair the bed/frame attachment, but would strengthen it over the OEM attachment.

So you bounced and pounded around the desert..so have a lot of others with the stock FWC turnbuckles and attachment points and I doubt many [any?] have seen that deforming of the bed you show in the first photos...I don't believe that the FWC plates/turnbuckles were the issue...they held and bed deformed...why did the bed pull out? Well from my naive view, the plates under the bed where repeatedly subjected to "slamming" [my term] due to slack in the turnbuckles and with each 'pop' it pulled out the bed and created more slack for the next slam...

Your Titan, as judged by others that have it with a FWC, seems up to the job...but I don't have a clue how stout the bed material is or how good the attachment to the frame is...nor do I think that the FWC hold down system will 'inevitably' fail.

Again, just my thoughts, but the FWC plates and turnbuckles held and by doing so exerted enough pull to deform the bed...in my mind only if the turnbuckles were loose and when you hit a particularly vicious ditch or ridge the camper exerted an accelerated yank on the turnbuckle to plate and deformed the bed...does not have to be very loose, even slightly loose with repeated shocks over time the bed could be pulled out like you see..

OR, you took that one "mother of all hits" and deformed the bed with that one super pop....was the deformation equal in all four corners or greater at one end? Hitting a mega bump would I think pop the front mounts the hardest.

Anyway, my expertise is very limited, so just offer this for thought....good luck and keep us posted..oh, I agree to isolate the bed/camper from frame flex which could put a lot of loading in differing directions and some in opposition to the camper movement.

Phil
 
Thanks for all the advice. I'm thinking at this point I might just bolt the camper down, something I have been thinking of doing anyways. The truck is not a daily driver and I have only taken the camper off once, mainly just to see how it's done. I'm thinking if it's bolted down I can try hitting the structural bed crossmembers. Question is I have never seen how this is done. What diameter bolts to use. And do you just bolt straight through the floor pack? It seems since this is just stapled together it wouldn't be that structurally sound? Any advise (and pictures) would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Start like someone recommended by contacting Stan at FWC....talk to him about the problem and your plans...they do make campers that attach directly to frames....

Good luck! :cool:

Phil
 
Adventurebound said:
Thanks for all the advice. I'm thinking at this point I might just bolt the camper down, something I have been thinking of doing anyways. The truck is not a daily driver and I have only taken the camper off once, mainly just to see how it's done. I'm thinking if it's bolted down I can try hitting the structural bed crossmembers. Question is I have never seen how this is done. What diameter bolts to use. And do you just bolt straight through the floor pack? It seems since this is just stapled together it wouldn't be that structurally sound? Any advise (and pictures) would be appreciated. Thanks.
Sorry to see that damage...

I know I have seen pictures of campers bolted down in the past but couldn't find any searching. I did find this in Bailey's posts on another forum here - https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/baileys-2010-tundra-adventure-build-w-trip-photos.5727/post-123771 and here is a link to through bolts on a Nissan Frontier https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/slide-in-camper-on-my-nissan-frontier.342314/post-3652657

What I have seen is the camper bolted through the floor in the four corners. If that cross member in your picture is actually welded to the bed and is not a frame cross member then I would think that would be a good point to bolt through. I also remember comments that in the old days it was pretty common for the Keystone models to be bolted directly to the beds.

One negative comment I remember from the past is that remounting the camper after removal can be tricky in getting the bolt holes lined up. Some also recommended a bed mat to reduce slipping forces although I would think a spayed on bed liner would do the same thing.

Best of luck with the repair.
 
Thanks everyone. I have contacted Stan and he has forwarded my email to the appropriate parties. I will update the thread with what I find out for a solution.
 
Hello all. I emailed FWC last week and Stan forward my email to the service department...twice...never heard from them. Seems to be a trend here....so disappointing. I took the camper completely off the truck this weekend and came to a conclusions of my own. That being a truck bed is designed to have a load placed in them and pushing DOWN, not attached to them PULLING up. I have several stress cracks throughout the bed of the truck. Do I "four-wheel" hard? I wouldn't say so unless you consider mining roads and logging roads hard. Do I go fast on these roads? Not at all, besides the rest of the truck has held up great, not a single issue at 130k miles.
 

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My option right now was to build larger backing plates to distribute the load over a larger surface area. Hopefully that works and I will keep the group updated.
 

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Their lack of response may be because of the Covid19 shutdown. I’d ask Stan to give you a call.
Adventurebound said:
Hello all. I emailed FWC last week and Stan forward my email to the service department...twice...never heard from them. Seems to be a trend here....so disappointing. I took the camper completely off the truck this weekend and came to a conclusions of my own. That being a truck bed is designed to have a load placed in them and pushing DOWN, not attached to them PULLING up. I have several stress cracks throughout the bed of the truck. Do I "four-wheel" hard? I wouldn't say so unless you consider mining roads and logging roads hard. Do I go fast on these roads? Not at all, besides the rest of the truck has held up great, not a single issue at 130k miles.
 
Hello all. I emailed FWC last week and Stan forward my email to the service department...twice...never heard from them. Seems to be a trend here....so disappointing. I took the camper completely off the truck this weekend and came to a conclusions of my own. That being a truck bed is designed to have a load placed in them and pushing DOWN, not attached to them PULLING up. I have several stress cracks throughout the bed of the truck. Do I "four-wheel" hard? I wouldn't say so unless you consider mining roads and logging roads hard. Do I go fast on these roads? Not at all, besides the rest of the truck has held up great, not a single issue at 130k miles.


What follows are just my musings and trying to help not hinder you discover why this happened. How to prevent such damage in the future will require a methodical review of how it occurred, when it occurred and what step you can take to prevent it re-occurring.

First I hope you can figure out a work-around....while I concur that truck bed construction was designed to carry a load and not to resist an upward force; unfortunately your problem seems way out of the norm....thousands of FWCs in pickup beds and while some may have distorted bed attachments the vast majority do not...that in itself does not help you; but with that in mind, search for a reason for the damage you see. As I offered before the damage could have been a "big bang" event or a slow process of repeated sudden jolts to the bed anchor over time. You mentioned in your first post what sounds like a rugged trip in Mojave; I would start there. My gut tells me it most probably was a matter of successive hard snaps over time due to a slightly loose turnbuckle or attachment at the base plate in the bed. You would remember one of those "Oh, ****" hits that you did not see coming, but may have missed loose attachments over time.

As to how to repair the damage and bolster the strength of the attachment point; no real idea since the construction of your truck and bed are unknown to me. If in doubt I would bridge across frame members if possible.

Really feel for you and hope this turns out to be a solved problem. Again, start at the beginning; why did, what caused, the bed to fail?

Best of luck,

Phil

PS...Agree, dumb CO-19 probably has factory shut down...Stan is your go to guy.
 
Adventurebound,


Like others who have posted here and elsewhere I had a PU box eyebolt pull up. This was on the previous truck, it didn't get worse so I just left it. Yours, obviously you can't. I think your doing the right thing with first trying backer plates. I hope for your sake it will be enough with an already damaged bed. And I'll will add a few additional thoughts ...


Are you 'wheeling it too hard ? It doesn't sound like you are out of the usual usage range. My first thought tho is, do you you air down the tires for off highway driving (gravel haul rds etc). I do, and it makes a noticeable difference in reducing shock intensity to the vehicle, at least to our vehicle with our set up. If you have overly stiff walled tires, perhaps a softer type might help absorb the bumps more. Similarly if you have an aftermarket higher spring rate suspension, perhaps an alteration might help (remove a leaf for eg).


Bolting thru the floor - Previous to this FWC we had another type of slide in which was thru bolted. That one went into the PU box formed "cross members" underneath the box floor. One would think that a better placement than just thru the PU box floor but I note on ours 2 of those mounts crushed the cross members. So again, damage can happen. Thru bolting on yours (with a boxed framed chassis?) I would look at using the existing PU box mounting hole locations. I think there are 4 and that they would fall within the footprint of your camper - but they may be inconvenient. I'd replace the oe bolts with similar dia and strength, at least 10mm dia. and use a fender washer/ backer plate on top. I've read some FWC are mounted thru the camper floor. I don't be surprised if the factory makes no changes to the floor pack staple construction but one could add brackets or angle to strengthen the joints if desired.


Stiffening the bed - Previous truck I had a sheet of 3/4 plywood bolted to the floor (using the holes from above slide in), can't quantify how much, but it did seem to stiffen the PU box. Mentioned because some of your damage may have occurred thru twisting. You might even be able to cut the ply shape so the floor eyebolts also attach thru the wood (threaded thru tee nuts for eg) for a little extra support.


Turnbuckles - lots of threads on here to search on this subject, how tight etc. I like using a lock nut or tie wire after tightening so when I check as part of my routine and find a loose but locked tie down it tells me the turnbuckle has not loosened, rather the mounts have pulled or the camper shifted. Useful info. Also, a poster mentioned earlier using external mounts and others have posted about using spring tiedowns. If your issue continues I'd say both are worth consideration, even on only one end of the camper.


Bed mat - I use one and like it. I think it helps prevent the camper from sliding around and it can be the "something" that has to give when the box gets twisted, namely a bit of cushioning. Speaking of camper sliding, some folks have attached blocking or angle to the PU floor to restrict possible camper movement. Using the plywood above might give another option for attachment.
 
Sorry to hear of your problems.

The only thing I can add is to find out what FWC does when mounting their campers on a Tacoma with the composite bed...maybe that method might work for you.
 
Adventurebound said:
As you can see the bed has broke free from the crossmember...lifted up about 1/2 inch.
From what you have identified, installing bigger backing plates alone will not suffice. May need to shift the eyebolt locations to be closer to the cross member or though cross member. If that is not possible (too far from recommended eyebolt location) then add some structural support resist the uplift forces. Also as others have said consider a bed mat and/or airing down tires a little.
 
smlobx said:
The only thing I can add is to find out what FWC does when mounting their campers on a Tacoma with the composite bed...maybe that method might work for you.
This is a great idea. I think I've seen a pic or two on here of the bars used. Not sure if they use the PU box mounting holes thru to the chassis.

Also for ideas, from another forum a different mount set up. Looks like 2 bolt thru the bed per each corner and spring loaded tie downs.
 
I am seeing a slight lifting of the bed of my 2018 F150 aluminum bed on one corner in the front. I currently have FWC installed 2" x 4" x 3/16" aluminum plates as backing. I am thinking of installing 5" wide x 2" high x 0.325" web aluminum channel full width (~58") perpendicular to the bed corrugations under both the front and rear tie-down eye bolt areas. There are no obstructions in these areas and holes would be located in the original positions for all of the eye bolts. I am thinking that this could spread the load nicely and re-allign/strengthen the lifted bed. It's a little expensive but I think it might be a better strategy than just installing larger backing plates. I'd like to know what others think about this method. Thanks!
 
Thought I would follow up on this thread. Since installing the backing plates I fabricated I have had no issues. Had a long week in Moab where I ran Hell's Revenge.... yes with the camper on the back... along with numerous other trails. And have spent about every weekend since in the Nevada desert. I still never heard from four wheel campers on how to bolt the camper down, which I still plan on doing, or a recommendation on how to fix it. Ultimately I would recommend if you're going to use your camper off-road like I do to definitely upgrade the backing plates. I don't necessarily think the ones that come with the camper are bad or not designed properly It just depends on how you're going to use your camper/truck. BTW there has never been any structural issues with the camper itself. I checked the backing plates on the camper and they are all fine.
 

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