Battery Not Charging

I am certainly a beginner in this regard and I am sure that the solution is obvious to those in the know.

I suspect that the battery is not charging because earlier this summer the house battery drained to a point where the light dimmed. It did not recharge as the truck was running. I did not have a volt meter at hand to check levels.

Also when I get a reading off the camper batt (13.22) and turn the truck off the reading stays the same. It does not do this at other points in the system.

Make sense?

I will check to ensure I do not have the separator wired backwards tomorrow night.
 
Do you have a solar charger on your camper battery? 13.22 for a battery not on a charger, or many minutes after a fresh charge is too high. Seems like there is a solar charger or AC charger in the mix.

Now if the truck side of the separator is above 14 when the truck is on and the camper battery is still closer to 13 then the separator is not closing, or it is wired wrong.

If I was there in person, I would trace the voltage on both sides of the separator truck off, measuring voltages as you have done but also noting wire colors and polarity, making a schematic drawing and noting the colors and voltages, then run the truck and remeasure the voltages. I would look for any other wires on any of the terminals and ensure I knew what they lead to, such as fuses, solar chargers, loads. Seeing your 27V and the 0.5 volt difference I mentioned is hard to address without more information like the above things (colors, tracing, loads, chargers, etc).

I would also verify the separator contacts are closing when the starter battery voltage crosses the setpoint, and opens when it falls (truck turned off).
 
No Solar and no AC as I unplug it when fiddling with this devil machine. After re-examining and looking at the instructions in depth (novel idea I know) The black wire from the truck (Neg) is connected to the battery post on the separator and the white which I believe to be positive is connected to the little silver bar positioned in front (I assume that this is meant to be a ground. I am guessing that the polarities are mixed up. This is confusing to me being that this particular wiring system was wired this way by the NC dealer. I assume that he did this intentionally. For some reason the original owner wanted a 7 hole plug.

Anyway I will try to switch the polarities and post the results.
 
Wrong polarities, especially if there is not proper fusing or breakers, can cause nasty problems including frying connected appliances. I recommend you disconnect the wires, verify their polarity vs wire color. Once that is established, re-examine the posts on the relay - consult the manual if you can. Only the positive side is switched. The only reason for negative to be on the relay is to power the relay coil.

Having a 7 pin RV connector is not unusual, especially if the truck it went on once had a full size camper. I used a 7 pin also. Allows the use of a commonly available connector and has room for marker light and other wires, compatible with rear bumper wiring also. There are certainly other connector options.
 
The voltages up to the separator show what I would imagine as typical drops due the wire runs.
The drop at the separator make me wonder if the new device is solid state or if they have a diode in circuit to protect against polarity mistakes.
The voltage on the camper side of the separator indicates that the separator is closing.
The drop from the separator is huge - either the wire gauge is way too small (and there will be fire), something else is in circuit (like another diode or ???), or there is no continuity from the separator to the battery.
I think 13.2 is a pretty common float voltage so it seems like there is a charger in the mix to me too. Does your system use a DC-DC charger? The wires from the separator go to a solar charger or something? If so, perhaps that device is stuck in float.
 
Not exactly on topic but.I have a portable fridge/freezer with a battery protection switch.High/medium/low.On high the unit will cut out at 11.9v,now my question is how far below that could you draw down the battery and still start the truck.Just curious as I do have a camper battery and solar panel,and don't run the unit off the truck battery but if need be.
Thanks Frank
 
Hello, first thanks to everyone for the help! This turned in to quite the investigation. Here is the 411 and this is what I believe to be true.

Key point: The camper was sold by the distributor in NC. It sounds as though this distributor does or used to deal with Lance Campers. They also, for some reason, wire in a 7 hole (not blade) wiring harness. This is something that I have yet to find or see in my neck of the woods. For what ever reason they re-wire their campers with this 7 hole harness including the FWC.

Lance: Uses the black wire as the hot wire.

FWC: Uses the white wire as the hot wire

Long story short , whom ever wired the camper at the distributor, wired as a Lance and used the Black as the positive.

The wires were crossed at the truck side of the separator.

I just checked and am getting 14.4 on the meter at the Camper Battery while the truck is running ... is it fair to say that this is adequately charging the battery?
 
I just checked and am getting 14.4 on the meter at the Camper Battery while the truck is running ... is it fair to say that this is adequately charging the battery?


You're getting decent voltage back there now so the amount of "charging" you'll be able to do will depend on how discharged your battery is and wire gauge (more amps drop the voltage, etc.) but you're back at the normal baseline it seems. See if you like the ability to replenish the battery over your future travels.
 
You're getting decent voltage back there now so the amount of "charging" you'll be able to do will depend on how discharged your battery is and wire gauge (more amps drop the voltage, etc.) but you're back at the normal baseline it seems. See if you like the ability to replenish the battery over your future travels.


Hell ya!

I am using the new and improved sure power 1314 - However while re-assembling the cabinet I noted that the Separator was very warm to touch ... almost too hot to touch. Is this normal?
 
Hell ya!

I am using the new and improved sure power 1314 - However while re-assembling the cabinet I noted that the Separator was very warm to touch ... almost too hot to touch. Is this normal?



If the truck is off and it stays very warm or hot then something seems worng to me. If it is hot only while the truck is running, then that is due to the coil being energized and it will get very warm. How warm is too warm though, probably best left for the manufacturer to advise on. But if I cannot hold a finger on the unit for a minute or so withoiut fear of getting burned I would be concerned.
 
They tend to run pretty hot. I wouldn't sweat it too much.I don't agree with the factory mounting location. It really should be located somewhere with better airflow. I moved mine under the hood.

Since you are running the camper from two separate batteries and didn't run the wiring yourself you need to check that the wiring is fused at the underhood battery as close to the + terminal as possible to protect the wiring going to the camper. You should also fuse the second camper battery in the same way. . Normal 12 volt wiring colors are red + and black - and I don't really understand why the builders of these campers don't use type TC cable in red and black which can be purchased as easily as white and black. The way these campers are wired is really their weakest point.

Dsrtrat

If the truck is off and it stays very warm or hot then something seems worng to me. If it is hot only while the truck is running, then that is due to the coil being energized and it will get very warm. How warm is too warm though, probably best left for the manufacturer to advise on. But if I cannot hold a finger on the unit for a minute or so withoiut fear of getting burned I would be concerned.
 
I won't re post all my views about the Sure Power 1314 separator,but in my opinion they run way to hot to be placed inside a cabinet or even next to the battery under the seat.I think if you want to use this type of unit it should go under the hood.I know this has been the place of choice for years in a lot of campers,but i just didn't feel comfortable with this style of unit and went with the cooled running isolator supplied from ATC.
Check out the thread by Ugly Scout"recalled 1314 separator"
Frank
 
I have one more story to add to this thread. I have a 2009 Eagle and FWC tells me that newer Eagles probably won't fail in quite the way mine did.
I gradually noticed a weakening of the charging circuit. A voltage check revealed a 0.4 volt drop from truck battery to camper. This did not seem like much to me but a friend assured me it was worth tracking down. But I had no idea where the battery separator was hiding and so the route from truck bed connector to camper battery was a mystery.
On our last trip the charging circuit died completely and I learned that with solar one can live without an alternator. (for 5 weeks on the road)
So once we got home I had to dig. With some phone advice from FWC I removed the battery and water tank and found the separator hiding behind the water tank hoses in a special compartment of its own. A crimped wire connector had pulled out completely. I crimped on a new one and reassembled the works.
I hope nobody is able to benefit from this story as the job is time consuming and demands contortions. While I was putting things back together I took the time to redesign the panel connections to make it easier to remove them.
 
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