battery separator question

Jason,

It has been suggested that the cable be fixed with screamer at each end.
You mentioned what sounded like a single 60 amp a breaker (or fuse).
As mentioned, I planned on leaving the factory installation intact complete with the two factory breakers, and adding the additional 6ga companion cable alongside, both wires connected at all ends also with 2 Additional 30 amp breakers, like in the factory installation, at the ends of the new cable.

Do you have other thoughts on my methodology?

Thanks,

Ted


Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
You do not want to use extra breakers in parallel. Just a single breaker at each end with both wires terminated on the single breaker post. Only double up the wire, not the breakers. You might elect to upsize your current breaker if it is 30A, or just try it and do that later.

Edit : Adding to this. Paralleling wires is not done often because it has complications. With 2 wires you have to size the breaker for the smallest wire. In this example, 30A is suitable for the #10, so you would just keep using the 30A breakers. Else remove the #10 and go with the single bigger wire with a bigger breaker. But you may never need more than 30A, just want the reduced voltage drop. You would need to monitor the current and determine if you need more breaker or not. If paralleling, it is easier to use equal size wires.
 
K7MDL said:
You do not want to use extra breakers in parallel. Just a single breaker at each end with both wires terminated on the single breaker post. Only double up the wire, not the breakers. You might elect to upsize your current breaker if it is 30A, or just try it and do that later.
Click to expand...
*2
You are trying to improve current carrying capacity & reduce voltage drop, not provide alternate electrical paths between truck & camper electrical systems.

Paul
 
If you run two wires they should be protected separately and appropriately to the size of wire. If you have one 60amp breaker for two 10ga wires and only one wire shorts it will catch fire before tripping the breaker.

.
 
Agreed. Paralleling is complicated, hence not done often. Also only need to use the breaker that is needed. Not everyone needs 60A or even 30A, each installation is unique, though have many similarities.
 
Thanks all. The alternative paths argument makes good sense and the10ga sounds like more potential danger than its potential contribution.
I'll simply replace it with a single 6ga wire. Any problem with using the 30 amp breakers currently used in the factory wiring? Most think there should be a breaker at each ends of the run.
Also, wouldn't they seem more likely to trip with the smaller sized wire all else being equal?

I'm running 2-224 ah 6volt batteries that can handle 25-55 amps but I doubt the Tundra's alternator will supply that much current. Wouldn't a short be need to trip the breakers?



Sent from my iPad using Wander The West
 
The alternator may not provide enough current to trip the breaker, but your truck battery will also contribute current if the camper battery is low. You'll probably get some tripping as things try to equalize, which is why it is wise to use an auto reset breaker. Size the breaker accordingly to the size of the wire used to avoid some of the nuisance tripping.
 
The breaker needs to be sized to protect the lowest gage wire in the circuit. If you don't upgrade the 10ga wire in the camper keep the 30 amp breaker.
 
what size batteries do the FWC come with? im getting ready to order a noco on board charger. what AH are the batteries? I normally run smaller 35-40ah agm. but hoping to run 2 120-200 AH with a separator. one charger only goes upto 120 or so. so if the hawk come with 150-200 I have to go with the bigger charger. thanx
 
Hi there - As mentioned , I upgraded my wiring from the truck from the 10g to 4g wire. I left the original breakers in place (the little silver ones attached to the firewall of the truck and inside the battery box in the camper). I have not seemingly had any issues yet with those original breakers tripping with the larger gauge wire. However, I also have a trimetric monitoring system. The other day I noticed that my truck batteries were supplying 35-45 Amps to the batteries (they were about 60% charged). I would have thought that the original breakers would have tripped? Any idea what size those breakers are? Also, any idea where I could buy a 60 or 80 Amp breaker that I could use that would accept my 4G wire? Most seem to have smaller terminals. I would not imagine I could easily attach my wire to that LOL. Thanks
 
Thanks PaulT. I had not noticed the size of the ring terminals on that breaker. It looks like those high amp breakers are pretty much all manual reset. I am trying to figure out whether to go with one of those 'high amp' breakers or simply upgrade with an automatic reset breaker which could simply replace the 30 amp one. The highest automatic reset breaker I could find is 50 amps such as this:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/50-amp-short-stop-auto-reset-circuit-breaker-12-volt-right-angle.html

Not sure I would necessarily need to upgrade to 60 or 80 amps for the breaker. I have never seen that sort of output from the alternator on the Trimetric.

Thoughts?
 
OK now I am really confused. Our 2016 Hawk [delivered 2-16] with FWC dual batteries and two solar panels [160w and 80w] has a separator with these markings"

'Battery Separator
Model 1314A
EATON 100 amp
Made in Mexico'

I see that SurePower had a recall in 2011 for the 1314 separator made in Oregon.

So is my separator made by SurePower? Not BlueSea...

Oh yes, it is warm to the touch and has a metal plate mounted on the lid above the separator..normal?

Any and all explanations will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil

PS..."EATON" website show the same separator but it is labelled as "Sure Power" our separator does not have "Sure Power" on it.

PPS...No where on the any website do I see a 1314A that is made in Mexico likes ours...the rest say 'made in USA'.
 
I, too, have the metal plate on the underside of the "lid" above the 1314A separator. 2015 Shell Grandby. Probably an electrical code requirement.
Bill
 

Attachments

  • 100_6578.JPG
    100_6578.JPG
    105.2 KB · Views: 103
BILL98388 said:
I, too, have the metal plate on the underside of the "lid" above the 1314A separator. 2015 Shell Grandby. Probably an electrical code requirement.
Bill
Click to expand...

Naive of me but code requirements are supposed to be for a purpose...what is the purpose of the plate? Protection of lid from combustion due to separator heat?

Bill does your separator also say made in Mexico?

Also my separator sits inside a three sided wire cage 'box' with significant air space
 
PaulT said:
Blue Sea makes several. Look at the chart showing trip time vs. amps

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7187/285-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_100A

Install a terminal that fits your wire and has an appropriate end for the circuit breaker you choose. The one shown accepts 1/4" ring terminal.

Paul
Click to expand...
The 80A version of these breakers is what I have at each end of the truck to camper battery connection. I prefer the manual reset because I can use them as a battery switch when I need to work on the wiring between them. For that convenience I'm willing to live with not always knowing when/if they have popped.

My educated guess is the plate is to shield the wood from the heat. To me that heat is wasted electricity that could have been used to recharge the camper battery(ies).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

J
Circuit Protection in Typical Camper Power Systems
Jon R
J
H
Help with 2023 Silverado 2500HD heavy wire connection
HHM
H
K7MDL
Installed Renogy One Core monitor and Battery Shunt 300
K7MDL
K7MDL
Z
2006 FWC Electrical Issue
Wandering Sagebrush
Wandering Sagebrush
M
Noco Genius 10 not charging battery mystery
Vic Harder
Vic Harder

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom