Berts 1983 FWC Fleet, Total Rebuild

Berts

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Oct 30, 2020
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Okay here we go. I’ve been doing a ton of research and planning for my 83 FWC Fleet Complete Rebuild. Please comment on anything you want. The more information the better. I’m a guy who likes to have most things planned out before I start. Lots of it will change on the fly but having a solid plan makes me feel warm and fuzzy.

This is a complete rebuild. Going to strip it to the frame and start from scratch. Most of this will be done next summer but the more and more I think about it, the more motivated I get. I’m going to try and reuse anything I can which won’t be much. Mainly the windows and the moldings that attached the soft side to the roof and base. It looks good but need to confirm during demo.

The goal is to keep this Fleet as light, simple and as cheap as I can. I will splurge where I need and not afraid to where needed.

The Roof
I’ll reskin the entire thing. I’m thinking some 1/8” aluminum sheet or something lighter. One big sheet so no seams. Saw some people use ¼” plywood and glue rubber sheeting on the top concealing all the screw holes but seems like added weight I don’t want. It might be quieter in rain storms though. I do like the idea of not having all those holes in the roof from the screws though. I like what Pokybro did adding a bunch of cross support members. I’ll be doing that. Foam board insulation and 2 electric ceiling fans like the Fan-Tastic Roof Vent.

Head liner
I could not find much information on the materials people use here. Any ideas? Also not sure how it attaches, adding more metal screws seems like overkill but what do I know.

Lifting Panels
As of now I plan to rebuild the originals. We will see once I get into it. The rear panel I can template but the front maybe not, it’s pretty rotted. If not I’ll do the EMT lift system. I do have a question on the material used. People use wood and composite same thickness per original. If its 1/8”, why not use 1/8” aluminum?

Soft Side
My father in law has a sewing machine to handle the job and knows what he is doing. This is a huge resource for me. Otherwise I do not know how I would get this job done myself. I’m basically going to copy what Tim did. I don’t see why I would not. He did a great job. The plan is to use 18oz vinyl coater polyester. Copy what Tim did with 4 windows. As of now my windows will not open. They will be for light and have a privacy flap. I’ll build an arctic pack eventually.

Hard Siding
I plan to use aluminum sheet siding like what The Metal Company provides. Keep the seams to a minimum. All foam board insulation. Keep the original windows unless I can find some cheap used ones but I’m guessing the camper framing is also perfect for the stock windows which would make my life easier.

Frame
Initially I was going to shorten it up to fit in my 6’-6” bed with tail gate up but I don’t want to lose that much real estate inside. Eventually I’ll get a 8’ bed ¾ ton truck which will be perfect for this Fleets stock size. My life will be much easier stick to stock size. I’ll inspect all the framing for cracked welds and repair as needed. Question on repair. I see lots of people L bracket them back together. What are peoples thoughts on that versus welding? I can L bracket it myself easy but also have a buddy who can weld it for me. Issue is every time I need something welded I need to bring it to his shop 20 miles away. I’ll also all some more support to the frame. Beef it up a little to help prevent cracking in the future these older campers are known for.

Floor Pack
As you all know these stock are all wood framed. I was brain storming and why not make it aluminum? I was thinking of making the entire camper framed in aluminum, floor and all. Foam board insulate everything, aluminum skinned all sides and floor. Would that make it too rigid and take away from the performance of the FWC when off roading? I’ve read these campers ride so well because they have give built in them. It’s hard to tell but looks like the newer ones are more build like this. Just seems warmer and more sturdy but also will cost more. I’ll have to cost it out. I like the idea of zero wood framing for longevity. I also need to raise the floor about 5”-6” to clear the bed rails in my truck. Since I’m 6’-5” this is a good way to increase ceiling height. Biggest issue here is what to do with the door being a major trip hazard. I’ll figure that out but likely will need to custom make a door.

Solar
I don’t see I need that much power but this is one thing I do not know much about. I need to research watts and amps. Basically my diesel heater will use some power. I’ll be adding lights that will use a little power. I want to be set up for a compressor fridge. As of not I’m thinking 200w panels, not flexible as it seems like people have issues with those after about a year. Also most of my use will be in the winter where these things seems to run at about 50% compared to the summer months. Likely a 2 battery system.

Roof Rack
I need to design this yet but thinking I’ll screw some brackets to the side of the roof so the weight is distributed more to the outside structure. Sounds like these roofs can’t handle much weight. I do whitewater kayak as much as I can. I would like to get 3-4 kayaks up there which each weight 50 pounds each. Sounds like popping up the roof with weight is a pain and not good for the structure. I can easily take them off the roof before popping it up, takes 5 min. Roof weight will be about 40 ish pounds of solar and another 20 ish for the roof rack cross bars which will likely be galvanized steel bars. I think that should work.

Awning
I really like those bat wings but they are spendy. Might just go with a tradition awning that is lighter and easier to deal with.

Heater
I actually have one of those knock off Wabesto heaters new in the box I was going to put in my 89 Jayco Sportster but got the furnace working. Sounds like these diesel heaters really crank out the heat and are more efficient than a blower furnace. Plus I don’t have to run propane lines. I also already have a Buddy Heater as a backup.

Fridge
I’m going to use my 65 Yeti for now. I’ll build a home for it and likely down the road buy a compressor fridge/freezer that will sit in its place on longer trips.

Stove
I’ll buy a standard 2-3 burner stove top. Which will be the only thing that uses propane in my camper. Not sure if I should keep the 20lb tank. I’m thinking about buying one of those 11lb composite propane tanks. Lighter and smaller since I won’t be using much propane. I also like the idea of visually seeming how much propane we have left. The other option is to use those little green tanks but I hate the idea of all that waste.

Bed
I’m 6’-5” so I’m going to build a slide out bed so I sleep parallel with the camper. Perpendicular is not an option. Seems like the go to method is screw a support to the side of the camper on each side. Plywood on that and bed on top of that. Sounds easy enough LOL. As of now it’s my wife and I as well as our yellow lab/golden retriever mix

Kitchen and bench that also makes another bed.
Those will be a design build once I get close. Too much to think about now J

Not sure what else I’m missing. This is a lot to think about but feel pretty good about my ideas in my head and on paper. I’ll start the demo soon but with winter coming to Idaho this weekend and not having a dry place to work on this will be a challenge. I do have a pretty large covers patio in my back yard. It’s a matter of getting the camper in and out of there. My wife might need to give up her spot in our single garage. If I can make that happen I can work on the camper all winter which would be huge speeding up the process.

Appreciate any insight anyone has, any tips or trick, etc.

I'll post pictures as I go, you might have saw some pictures in another thread I made.

Thanks
Berts
 
I'll also add I do want a sink. I'm thinking a small sink where it drains straight down into like a 5 gallon bucket that I can dump out as needed. Mainly washing dishes but I do not want to water lines or tanks. I have a 7 gal water jug that has a nozzle where I can release water as needed.
 
longhorn1 said:
Tim Morrissey has a whole series of YouTube videos on his re-build. Check it out.
I'm all over his videos for sure ha ha. Huge help!!
 
Two fans is a must IMO.


I’m pretty sure fabric with thin strips, then staples thru strips to sub frame.

Copy the drain setup they do to outside nowadays. You loose lots of counter space with jug on counter. If you want a versatile setup jug on counter, and get a sink w/o drain hole that’ll drop into counter. Toss used water out back door, and can be used on picnic table with portable water supply.

Keep fridge/ cooler near rear door.

Scratch the stove and get one that you can use inside or outside. I have thought of replacing my existing stove and using a nice stove that’s removable.


Storing propane properly, you should give some thought to. Just sayin.

How are you getting off and on your bed?
 
The bed pull out plywood needs to have a support system along the "back" (back of truck). In the front, it rests on the cabover section, on the sides it rests on those slides you were talking about. On the back, the stock ones use a substantial hunk of oak. Aluminum C channel could work too.

Re: roof rack. Check out a place like Lee Valley Garden tools for T-Track. It's used by folks to build jigs for router tables and such. Super light, strong and way cheaper than Yakima/Thule but uses the same T-slot style bolts/nuts. For crossbars, get 1" alum square tubing from the hardware store. Plenty strong for canoes/Kayaks/Solar panels.

Solar, rather than 2 panels get one big one. They are all roughly the same weight & size, but power output it climbing fast. 4 yrs ago I put a 265W panel on my Hawk, 18 months ago a 330W panel and now I could get a 500+W panel! Ask lots of questions about solar/battery/power. Some very knowledgeable folks on this forum.
 
Go buddy go! Going to be a great rebuild.

I know you already found my videos, but I also have a build report on this site too, for a lot of the early stuff that you will get in to, I was not yet doing video and just wrote up and photos, you will find that helpful too.

Looking at your plans, Ill add two points - headliner and bed

Headliner
Go with the marine headliner, link in that same sheet I sent you earlier, glue it on with 3M 90 Spray, stuff is magical. pick yourself up a case of it early in the project, youll find many uses include locking in your insulation, putting up the headliner, when install the canvas etc.

glue - https://goo.gl/8NDUAa
headliner - http://www.upholsterysupplyonline.com/products/Marine-Headliner-White-HDL%252d1004.html

I did fiber insulation in the roof, lots of discussion on this in various builds, you probably already weighed the two option but if not clic around to see the pros and cons of the two styles for the roof specifically.

Bed

The only other aspect I think you might want to reconsider a bit more is the bed, this was one project that I did twice after a catastrophic failure on the first go. Sounds like your are a tall guy so there is sure to be some weight on that bed, with that you need to make sure your plywood is quality and of support, go with 3/4 and also make sure it is rencorced as needed. Also make sure you support on the walls of the camper have enough purchase in the wall as well as are thick enough to really support the sliding ply. I had to even reinforce v2 on this so maybe it actually took me 3 attempts. It works well now but was not trivial. I put some strips of UHMEPE on mine too that I think really help it slide in and our nicely. I did not report very heavy on this project hence why I wanted to share here.

You are sure to have an awesome build, enjoy it! - Tim
 
Agree with Tim on the bed.. make sure it is solid!!

I also have had multiple versions of our bed area (this is the only downfall of the older camper IMO, not having the larger over cab area)

I started with a slide out, but found it to be a pain..

I ended up making my bed foldable so that it can quickly be put up and out of the way. I used a large piano hinge and then a quick connect via a carabiner to connect to a hook on the roof... I feel like it is now more solid than ever as there is an extra connection point via the hinge
 
Some updates.

Most important my wife agreed to let this camper have the only garage space we have for the winter. Her car will be outside now. With Covid she works from home full time. Plus we will have much more time in the winter to work on it versus in the summer when we are always out doing things. Its a huge win with regards to getting this camper done sooner than later.

Sink, we are scratching the sink all together. For a couple reasons. Having more cabinet space will be nice. We have a sink right now which we never use. Its main use is for garbage honestly. Most of our camping is 2-3 days, we don't really do dishes. If we do have a dirty pot or pan wiping it down with a paper towel works well ha ha. If we really need to wash dishes we can do it outside. Maybe down the road I'll make a little portable washing station. Plus it makes the camper more simple and less to deal with which is the theme here.

Bed, I can see this will require some engineering. It needs to be sturdy for sure. I'm not a small guy and our dog is not small. I'm thinking maybe build an aluminum frame with 3/4" plywood on top of that. Maybe some folding legs that come out for support on the floor. It needs to be beef cake for sure. I agree, this seems like the only real negative of these older campers is the lack of overhead cab.

Solar, I'm clueless on this but will do more research. Did some googling last night on large panels. They seem hard to find. I think what I'll do is figure out my energy needs and double it. I like to be overkill and also camping in the winter these seem to only run about 50% capacity. I'm hoping I can get away with 1 300w panel or something similar. Time will tell.

Head liner, my father in law suggested maybe a automotive fabric which he can get good deals on. Gluing it to the ceiling. He also can sew up any couch or bed cushions which is huge.

I'll start taking pictures soon. Demo should start this week. I'm at the point now where I have a pretty good idea on most things. Its time to get going and figure it out from there.
 
My biggest decision in the immediate future will be floor pack. Rebuilding it out of wood would be the easiest and likely the cheapest. I plan to raise it about 6" so it will add some weight but not much. I like the idea of a full aluminum shell I can build from. Lighter, less worry about weather but more expensive. I'll make that call once I see how the wood floor pack is actually made. It would make sense to have a heavier floor so it rides better and counterbalances it in a way.
 
Did a little demo on her tonight. Sat in there for a beer thinking. Am I crazy to think about shortening the floor pack from the front creating more over head cab but also making it fit inside my 6.5' bed? I would lose 14" roughly of floor pack but gain that over the cab for a bed. The roof, lift panels, soft side would not have to be changed size wise. My buddy can weld it together and beef it up as needed. If I sold it years down the road it would be more appealing to sellers. I'm just thinking if i'm going to do it, might as well do it but man that's getting deep into this.

Regardless, I'm going to rebuild the floor pack from wood. Its actually in decent condition and its 37 years old, seems like it works and will be fine for a long time if I use the right wood and seal it.
 
How far back into the body of the truck does the big 4" C-channel that forms the cabover extend? This is your cantilever and probably the biggest consideration into how much torque/bending strength the frame has. I have to think that there is a difference between how the 3' vs 4' overhangs were made.
 
Berts,

Your question above, as you think through this, is exactly what I did on mine. Because of the window placement on mine ( a little high on the passenger side), I was only able to have a slide out of about 1 foot, with the total width then being 48” all together, with the overhangs about 36”. I have found many times the 36” is just fine for myself when I’ve been out alone, without using the slide out and extra cushions. When we are out together, my wife prefers sleeping on the bottom bunk, and our dog joins her (what’s wrong with that picture), and I sleep up top, and usually do have the top bunk extended with the extra cushions.

when I built the frame, I added two rows of 1” square tubing above the C-Chanel, as well as two 1” square tubes on the bottom by the floor pack on the front bulkhead, and the rear wall beneath the door, thus increasing the interior height 4”. I added a 3/4” x 4” board inside the C-Chanel on each side about 4 feet long and stapled into it through the aluminum channel for additional strength to address the concern for the strength of the cantilever mentioned by Vic. I have had had no problems with bending and I’m confident it is plenty strong for two people with the three feet overhang, plus the slide out.

Moving the front wall back is really pretty easy, and if your having welding done anyhow, and have a 6 1/2 foot truck bed, it makes sense. I’m very pleased with how mine turned out.

Good luck as you continue processing your plans, and deciding how to configure yours.

Poky
 
Vic Harder said:
How far back into the body of the truck does the big 4" C-channel that forms the cabover extend? This is your cantilever and probably the biggest consideration into how much torque/bending strength the frame has. I have to think that there is a difference between how the 3' vs 4' overhangs were made.
I'll have to check once I get it down to the bare bones. Hoping that can be this weekend. I'm guessing there is a way to beef it up.

PokyBro said:
Berts,

Your question above, as you think through this, is exactly what I did on mine. Because of the window placement on mine ( a little high on the passenger side), I was only able to have a slide out of about 1 foot, with the total width then being 48” all together, with the overhangs about 36”. I have found many times the 36” is just fine for myself when I’ve been out alone, without using the slide out and extra cushions. When we are out together, my wife prefers sleeping on the bottom bunk, and our dog joins her (what’s wrong with that picture), and I sleep up top, and usually do have the top bunk extended with the extra cushions.

when I built the frame, I added two rows of 1” square tubing above the C-Chanel, as well as two 1” square tubes on the bottom by the floor pack on the front bulkhead, and the rear wall beneath the door, thus increasing the interior height 4”. I added a 3/4” x 4” board inside the C-Chanel on each side about 4 feet long and stapled into it through the aluminum channel for additional strength to address the concern for the strength of the cantilever mentioned by Vic. I have had had no problems with bending and I’m confident it is plenty strong for two people with the three feet overhang, plus the slide out.

Moving the front wall back is really pretty easy, and if your having welding done anyhow, and have a 6 1/2 foot truck bed, it makes sense. I’m very pleased with how mine turned out.

Good luck as you continue processing your plans, and deciding how to configure yours.

Poky
I just saw your link to your build. I'm going to read all that today. Sounds like we are in the same boat. I really like the idea of chopping it to 6.5'. Good to know on the added 1" members. I like to go overkill on things like this. Ideally I want to be able to sleep parallel with the camper with my wife and dog if we can make that work. The lower bed is also an option, not sure why but I didn't think about that. I think if I build a piano hinge 3/4" plywood, build some support legs that fold down this might be do able. I was thinking if I sleep head towards the inside of the camper more of the weight won't be on the over the head cab. Its nice to know someone has done this and sounds not too hard of a job.

Did you shorten yours so the tailgate closes? Guess I'll find out shortly when I read your build thread. I like the idea of having the tailgate shut in my mind but that might be something that isn't needed and actually become annoying. Back up camera would be nice ha ha.
 
Berts,

I think my body length came out to 83 inches, so it extends even with the outside of the bed. So, no, the tail gate doesn’t close and is removed like most factory built scenario would be. I lucked out on this decision, because I built mine out fully equipped, and on the galley side I have a 110 liter fridge, a stove top, a sink, and the propane box. If I had made it any shorter, the stove and sink would nearly be touching with the components I installed.
 
PokyBro said:
Berts,

I think my body length came out to 83 inches, so it extends even with the outside of the bed. So, no, the tail gate doesn’t close and is removed like most factory built scenario would be. I lucked out on this decision, because I built mine out fully equipped, and on the galley side I have a 110 liter fridge, a stove top, a sink, and the propane box. If I had made it any shorter, the stove and sink would nearly be touching with the components I installed.
Good to know, Thanks for the heads up. My plan right now (it changes daily) is no sink and no traditional fridge. Looking doubtful on the propane box as well but might do a small one to fit an 11 pound tank in. Or just store it inside. My only use for propane will be for cooking. Really trying to keep this simple. I'm going to use a camp stove that's portable so I can cook inside and out when I want. Looks like I need to be 77" to fit inside my tailgate. As of now that's the plan. Really just looking for a warm and weather tight place to sleep, play some games and relax. The hard part will be building it as long as I can but still able to fit in the box. Need to account for trim pieces.

I read about 20 pages of your build, IMPRESSIVE but also a little overwhelming ha ha. I now have a picture of what you meant by the added alum tubing on the top and bottom. I'm going to do the same to beef it up. Same with the roof, not sure yet but hopefully my roof has the 1x2 but its a 83 so maybe not. I'm not sure if I want to use corner jacks, I like the original jacks honestly. They are simple and fast. I might just rebuild some newer ones that are higher and be done. I plan to do what you did and beef up those corners in case I change my mind or if the next owner wants to add them it will be ready.

Lots of things rolling in my head. Need to get serious with demo very soon and find out what I'm working with.
 
[SIZE=10.5pt]I officially started working on it last night. Only got about 2 hours into the demo before it started raining. Its currently outside with a tarp on it. I'll get some pictures later, it was dark and rainy. Got most of the inside gutted and pulled a couple windows. I need to strip it down as much as I can and have some buddies help me pick it up manually and move it into the garage. I have no way of moving it into the garage as my truck has the other camper on it. Which also poses a problem when I get the frame done I won't be able to set it in there and make sure it all works. I hate to do it but I might have to pull my other camper off for a dry run test fit. No matter how much you measure, things can still end up off. I won't touch the roof until I get it into the garage so I can suspend it from the ceiling while doing the demo. I also need to take a ton of pictured of the outside so I know how this all goes back together. Since its a complete rebuild, that might not matter. Not sure if I'll reuse any trim I can or just buy all new. I'll also need to build a dolly on caster so when this camper is complete in the garage, I have a way to get it out and onto the truck. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Demoing the windows got me thinking, do I really want to put these old windows back in. Seems like it would be worth it to buy some newer windows that seal better and are more weatherproof but the added costs are brutal. The seals in these older windows I'm guessing are pretty shot and rotted. I don't need a snowdrift inside my camper ha ha. I see Rec Pro has some 15"x24" windows for $120ea. I could likely use 3 of those, one on the front drivers side, one on the lower front area and one to the right of the rear door. That leaves the passenger side which I want a large window. They have some that are 22x42 for $200. That's $600 for windows. I need to find a Pokybro deal used for $60 ha ha. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]Which brings me to the frame. New windows will require additional frame work to fit those windows. Also on the frame, I'll talk to my fabricator but I'm going to add the (2) 1" tubing on the top of the frame for addition support of the bed. I'll need to measure but a 5-1/2" pallet was needed when I brought it home to clear the bed rails and cap which was about perfect. I'm guessing at this point I'll be adding (6) 1" tubing to the bottom of the frame. Since I'm tall this a added bonus for ceiling height. I'll basically be gaining 8" of ceiling height with these modifications. Maybe a higher ceiling will make the camper feel bigger since I’m planning to make this camper fit inside my tailgate which is 77”. Also regarding the frame, I need to start thinking about solar panels and sizes so I space out my ceiling vents accordingly. That will be my project today, figuring out my watt needs are and how much real estate those panels require. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I'm already entering the rabbit hole $ wise. Seeds like my budget is already in jeopardy LOL. I'm hoping I can recoup some money not buying a fridge, Already have a stove, already have a furnace, sewing the soft side myself and rebuilding the lift panels myself. Seems like frame and windows is going to be the grunt of the project but also the most important for weather and my main objective, winter camping. The good news is I’m going to end up with the camper I want and hopefully will use for a LONG time. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I figured out half the weight of these FWC's are screws, wow there are a lot of them. Impact drill does quick work. [/SIZE]
 
Windows - If they open and close and work as they are supposed to, they are fine and I would reuse. When you put them back you use new Butyl Putty and they seal up nicely. I have never had any issues with re-using my old windows that a little caulk can't fix..

Trim - Seeing as I am very close to the metal company, I used mostly new trim on mine. For corners I used angle iron from home depot. The only trim piece I couldn't find new was the trim piece for the roof that the canvas sits under..
 
BBZ said:
Windows - If they open and close and work as they are supposed to, they are fine and I would reuse. When you put them back you use new Butyl Putty and they seal up nicely. I have never had any issues with re-using my old windows that a little caulk can't fix..

Trim - Seeing as I am very close to the metal company, I used mostly new trim on mine. For corners I used angle iron from home depot. The only trim piece I couldn't find new was the trim piece for the roof that the canvas sits under..
Thanks for the window reassurance. That sounds good to me. They do open and close just fine. I just worry about them being drafty. Maybe I'll so a science experiment with that and check.

Good to know on the trim. I plan to keep all the trim just in case. I'll for sure hold onto the roof trim. You are right on the corners, seems like aluminum angle is just fine and cheap.
 
I need to take pictures but I've been working in the dark with a headlamp and its been under a tarp during the day outside. The plan is to move it into the garage this weekend. Going to build a dolly on casters today so I can roll it in and out of the garage as needed. I'm 5 hours of actual work into it now. I need to keep track, I'm curious how much labor I will have into this beast. All exterior siding off, windows and doors are out, soft side removed, insulation gone, all cabinets gone, pretty much all gutted inside & metal on the roof is off. My back yard looks like a junk yard now. Need to demo under the cab yet and some other things. Might try and jack it up and see how to removed the floor pack in one piece in case I need to reference anything I need to on that. I'm assuming its screwed to the frame from underneath. The roof has one area where its dented in a little. I'll have to straighten that. The frame looks really good overall. I don't see any broken welds but need to check it better in the daylight. The roof is 1x2 with the ends crimped to create some slope so thats nice to see.

Whats the best way to take care of the staples that are sticking out of the frame? I'm thinking tap them with a grinder as well as all the screw holes that taper out to create a smooth exterior and interior so the new siding and interior panels sit perfectly flush.

I'm making progress and hope to have it over to the fabricator next weekend. I need to spend a day measuring that 12 times. I'm thinking if the inside of my bed is 77" I'll make the frame at 76" to give me an inch of play. The door sweep will stick out some I'm guessing. I'm not going to put the window in the front of the camper back in. Its broke and I don't see a point of that window. Its so close to the cab it doesn't give much light and less windows and openings the more weatherproof it will be. I need to think this over. I would hate to hack this all down and my tailgate still doesn't close when I'm all done. That's kinda the whole point.

Getting there
 

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