I'll also add the lift panel hinges are pretty rough and the panels have basically broken all off because they are so rotted. I'm now thinking I'm going to rebuild those with the EMT system. I don't want to buy new hinges from ATC, the costs will add up for what I want. If I can cut costs on things its a bonus as I'm sure other things will go over. Plus if I need to rebuild lift the system or any future owner, this will be way easier to replicate. I wish I have a template to go off of. I need to do some research on this. I know Tim's build looks great. He mentioned the pipe does kinda crush the bed a little but I'm building the top lip of the camper up 2" so hopefully that will fix that issue.
Berts 1983 FWC Fleet, Total Rebuild
- Thread starter Berts
- Start date
A couple of things to ponder:
– I don't see the advantage of keeping the tailgate. It is a lot of weight and makes it (for me) more difficult to get through the door.
– If you do keep it make sure you have enough clearance between the camper and the truck at both ends.
– re: front window - it is the only visibility I have our the front on my Grandby. That has been useful more than once.
– It also can be kept open for ventilation in a hard rain.
– I use weatherstrip to seal them and haven't had any water intrusion yet (6 years).
– The old 2-panel jalousie windows also have the advantage of staying open in all but a driving rain.
– Mine are water-tight but not air-tight.
jim
– I don't see the advantage of keeping the tailgate. It is a lot of weight and makes it (for me) more difficult to get through the door.
– If you do keep it make sure you have enough clearance between the camper and the truck at both ends.
– re: front window - it is the only visibility I have our the front on my Grandby. That has been useful more than once.
– It also can be kept open for ventilation in a hard rain.
– I use weatherstrip to seal them and haven't had any water intrusion yet (6 years).
– The old 2-panel jalousie windows also have the advantage of staying open in all but a driving rain.
– Mine are water-tight but not air-tight.
jim
Good call on the tailgate. I would like the option of keeping it on but I have a feeling like you said, I'll like it better off for getting in and out of the camper. I will be adding 6" of frame to the bottom of the camper to raise it over my bed rails and plan to build a custom door that is 6" higher. I'm tall and getting in and out of these little doors is already a pain.JaSAn said:
My front window is broke and kinda trash already. Last guy replaced the glass with Plexiglas and that's broken out. Maybe I'll add one of those $120 new windows that opens. I'll have 2 electric fans in the ceiling plus 2 other windows that open for ventilation.
Good to know on the weather tight window but not air tight. If I don't need the ventilation I can always seal them up with clear plastic.
All good conversation and appreciate the insight. Its a design build and I don't know much about campers so the more things to ponder the better. I want it as perfect as I can get it. I know there will be regrets down the road. Maybe that's when I build another one ha ha.
I got it all stripped down but the last piece of plywood holding the base together. Got all the staples out, ended up grinding some. Also ground down the protruding aluminum where the screws where so it’s flat. Now I need to figure out the modifications for the frame, how much and what aluminum I need to buy and get it to my fabricator. I was going to wait till spring but it’s kinda boring season right now. After work I need something to do.
A few welds are cracked or completely broken as normal for these.
Looks like my iPhone is turning the pictures.
A few welds are cracked or completely broken as normal for these.
Looks like my iPhone is turning the pictures.
Attachments
I have a week, my fab guys is out of town till next Monday. What to consider and what would you have done different? I have a 2018 F150 so I want to build it as efficient as I can to my truck. I’ll bring up autocad and start figure it out but if there is anything I’m missing or should consider please let me know.
BBZ
Senior Member
Now the fun begins!
Our story -- we have a 2014 F150 super crew with 6.5 bed.
Our first camper was a fleet that was 7.5 feet long, fit great, but with 2 dogs we felt a little cramped. I ended up finding the Grandby and its much wider in the floor, makes a huge difference.
Seeing as you have a wider truck (fleets are made for mid sized).. can you widen the floor area to have more square footage? I don't know your situation, but when on a longer trip and poor weather, its not to have as much room as possible.. I am glad we have an 8 foot grandby and don't mind rolling with tailgate down..
If I could build mine over, I would do a few things different, but not much, most notably.. I would put the counter/kitchen area on the passenger side of the truck as the fuel tank on the f150 is on the left.. when full of stuff and gas my drivers side is much heavier and it would have been smart to counter balance that...
Our story -- we have a 2014 F150 super crew with 6.5 bed.
Our first camper was a fleet that was 7.5 feet long, fit great, but with 2 dogs we felt a little cramped. I ended up finding the Grandby and its much wider in the floor, makes a huge difference.
Seeing as you have a wider truck (fleets are made for mid sized).. can you widen the floor area to have more square footage? I don't know your situation, but when on a longer trip and poor weather, its not to have as much room as possible.. I am glad we have an 8 foot grandby and don't mind rolling with tailgate down..
If I could build mine over, I would do a few things different, but not much, most notably.. I would put the counter/kitchen area on the passenger side of the truck as the fuel tank on the f150 is on the left.. when full of stuff and gas my drivers side is much heavier and it would have been smart to counter balance that...
BBZ,
I’m going to make it as wide as I can. Trying to maximize the space. Now you got me wondering what to do with the length. Chop it to 6.5’ or leave it at the 7.5’. It would be nice to have that extra room for sure. Decisions decisions but I have a week to figure that out.
Good call on the gas tank. I’ll look at that. I have the 36 gallon tank so that adds up big time when it’s full.
Does everyone use 3/4” ply for the floor pack? I want to insulate the floor so considering building a 1x2 framed wood floor for 2” on insulation and jack the floor up as well.
I’m going to make it as wide as I can. Trying to maximize the space. Now you got me wondering what to do with the length. Chop it to 6.5’ or leave it at the 7.5’. It would be nice to have that extra room for sure. Decisions decisions but I have a week to figure that out.
Good call on the gas tank. I’ll look at that. I have the 36 gallon tank so that adds up big time when it’s full.
Does everyone use 3/4” ply for the floor pack? I want to insulate the floor so considering building a 1x2 framed wood floor for 2” on insulation and jack the floor up as well.
It doesn’t stick out too far as is it right now but for some reason I like the idea of it sitting perfect in my 6.5’ bed. I also have a dirt bike that I use a hitch rack for on the rear. With the tailgate down I extended the mount but it sticks out pretty far.
Attachments
BBZ
Senior Member
Yes.. 36 gallon tank when full has my truck sitting lower on drivers side ( i have airbags so its not a huge deal, left I fill to 100 psi and right to 60 to balance it)Berts said:
BBZ
Senior Member
I would do that for sure for Mtn bikes. My dirt bike weights basically 300 pounds. Plus I want 200 pounds of kayaks on top. I won’t lift it with that weight. The closer to the truck the better for the dirt bike. And if I made it 6.5’ I’m guessing the camper will weight 100 pounds less or so. Every pound adds up. All things to ponder. The floor on my Fleet will be about 48”. Between my wheel wells is 50.5”. Wider floor, more overhead cab and increased ceiling height will make it feel bigger than it is I think. I need to see a 6.5’ FWC in person.
Your camper looks sick!!!! That’s a motivational picture, well done!!!
Your camper looks sick!!!! That’s a motivational picture, well done!!!
IMO the only downside to a camper longer than the box is it puts more weight on the rear axle. That may or may not be a concern for you.
I haven't found a way to get the side to side weight yet, but it is an issue. I put my batteries (125#) and water (116#) on the right side, but a full refrigerator and other heavy stuff is on the left. I add 170# and the beagle riding shotgun only 25# adds to the problem.
I'm not sure how bad the problem is but a balanced vehicle handles better, and wear and tear will more on the heavy side. I haven't noticed that my truck/camper leans to the left.
I haven't found a way to get the side to side weight yet, but it is an issue. I put my batteries (125#) and water (116#) on the right side, but a full refrigerator and other heavy stuff is on the left. I add 170# and the beagle riding shotgun only 25# adds to the problem.
I'm not sure how bad the problem is but a balanced vehicle handles better, and wear and tear will more on the heavy side. I haven't noticed that my truck/camper leans to the left.
I tried searching to find the thickness of plywood people are using for the floor pack. Seems like people would use 3/4" or 5/8" but can a guy get away with 1/2"? I can build the floor with 3/4" but the sides I'm going to be very tight between the wheel wells. The frame is 49-1/2" wide. I only have 50-1/2" between the wheel wells. !/2" ply plus tin. This isn't going to be as easy as I thought ha ha Might have to make the floor more narrow. Even 1" would be a huge help. I want to error on the side of caution to assure it all fits when its done.
Also I'm assuming pressure treated and painted with a flex seal type of paint?
Edit, I see I can build the front 2/3rds narrower and use any thickness of plywood. It would be nice to to make is easy though.
I’ll get autocad up and figure this all out. The frame isn’t going to look the same lol
Also I'm assuming pressure treated and painted with a flex seal type of paint?
Edit, I see I can build the front 2/3rds narrower and use any thickness of plywood. It would be nice to to make is easy though.
I’ll get autocad up and figure this all out. The frame isn’t going to look the same lol
PokyBro
Senior Member
Berts,
I couldn’t tell for sure what thickness of plywood was in my original, but I thought it was 5/8”. I chose to use 5/8” on mine for bottom and sides. I think it took three sheets, but I made a mistake on one of the sides and had to redo it. Doing it again I think I would go with 3/4” plywood for greater stiffness. I also went with regular ACX sanded plywood, vs treated. The treated I think adds extra weight, and isn’t needed if you don’t have the flat plywood setting on the truck bed. I added 3/4” x 4” pine slats crosswise to raise it up so water doesn’t pool, and air gets in to dry things out. I also later added paint on truck bed liner on the complete bottom, as I saw the original paint I had applied start to peel off because of road spray under the back door area. I think it was Hercules truck bed liner in a gallon can get from auto zone. It has an acrylic or plastic content that is more weather resistant than paint, and I’m more pleased with its performance. I got this idea from another WTW poster, and you can see it later in my build thread.
Hope that info is helpful.
Poky
I couldn’t tell for sure what thickness of plywood was in my original, but I thought it was 5/8”. I chose to use 5/8” on mine for bottom and sides. I think it took three sheets, but I made a mistake on one of the sides and had to redo it. Doing it again I think I would go with 3/4” plywood for greater stiffness. I also went with regular ACX sanded plywood, vs treated. The treated I think adds extra weight, and isn’t needed if you don’t have the flat plywood setting on the truck bed. I added 3/4” x 4” pine slats crosswise to raise it up so water doesn’t pool, and air gets in to dry things out. I also later added paint on truck bed liner on the complete bottom, as I saw the original paint I had applied start to peel off because of road spray under the back door area. I think it was Hercules truck bed liner in a gallon can get from auto zone. It has an acrylic or plastic content that is more weather resistant than paint, and I’m more pleased with its performance. I got this idea from another WTW poster, and you can see it later in my build thread.
Hope that info is helpful.
Poky
Thanks for the information. Huge helps as always. I was just reading more through your build Poky. I like what you did with the frame in regards of taping and L bracketing it together for the welder. Seems much cheaper and honestly easier to get it all figure out so the welder only has to weld and be done. This way I can assure its correct. Hopefully only one trip to the welder. I'm going to work on that this week. I have my camper in my truck but just remembered a buddy has a 2015 like mine. Google ways is the exact dimensions so I have a template to go off.
I did some more research on the floor pack and have better idea how to do it.
I was looking at the roof. Stock they folded the roof over and down the side edge which makes senes. Looks like lots of siding/roof aluminum is 0.024" & 0.030" thick. Not sure how easy that is to bend at the over head cab area at the radius.
I did some more research on the floor pack and have better idea how to do it.
I was looking at the roof. Stock they folded the roof over and down the side edge which makes senes. Looks like lots of siding/roof aluminum is 0.024" & 0.030" thick. Not sure how easy that is to bend at the over head cab area at the radius.
BBZ
Senior Member
I used 3/4.. wanted it to be bomber.. it is!
I didn't use new siding on the part of the overhead camper, but just sanded and painted what was there.. you can't tell its not new..
I didn't use new siding on the part of the overhead camper, but just sanded and painted what was there.. you can't tell its not new..
I think I’ll figure the frame with 3/4” plywood.
I can’t reuse my over the cab siding, I’m adding a couple of 1x above the channel to accommodate the added cantilever and increase headroom.
If a guy was to build it figuring tailgate off. What’s a good stopping point? Where the floor of the bed actually stops which is 77.5” on my truck or flush with the taillights at 82”?
One more thing I need to think about is I have the outside frame mount tork lift system. It’s likely overkill for this FWC but I have them now and I do like them. Makes it easy to install and I don’t need any access holes. Seems better for weatherproofing. My truck rails are 72” wide, my fleet is 78” so only 3” on each side. Need to see if I can make that work with the eye bolts chained to the torklifts if that makes sense. Not sure on clearance. Might need some plates that extend a couple inches on each side. I can likely just bolt those on later but looking for any other ideas.
I can’t reuse my over the cab siding, I’m adding a couple of 1x above the channel to accommodate the added cantilever and increase headroom.
If a guy was to build it figuring tailgate off. What’s a good stopping point? Where the floor of the bed actually stops which is 77.5” on my truck or flush with the taillights at 82”?
One more thing I need to think about is I have the outside frame mount tork lift system. It’s likely overkill for this FWC but I have them now and I do like them. Makes it easy to install and I don’t need any access holes. Seems better for weatherproofing. My truck rails are 72” wide, my fleet is 78” so only 3” on each side. Need to see if I can make that work with the eye bolts chained to the torklifts if that makes sense. Not sure on clearance. Might need some plates that extend a couple inches on each side. I can likely just bolt those on later but looking for any other ideas.
I did some preliminary figuring for costs and weight. Estimating at this point but wanted to get an idea. The costs are in line at around $3,000 but the weight seems to be high. I'm at 1200 pounds dry basically. I did some basic figuring and estimating. Plus need to add the weight of screws and caulking which will add up. I hope I'm off a couple hundred pounds. One of my main reason for rebuilding a FWC is to shed some weight from my old wood framed Jayco. I'm guessing the frame I'm heavy, windows, benches and heater. Might need to take a step back at how this build is going to go.
Frame 250 pounds
Floor pack 220 pounds
Build up floor 2" for insulation using 2x2 and 1/2" ply subfloor 50 pounds
Windows 50 pounds
Benches and cabinets 150 pounds
LVT Flooring 60 pounds
Bead board inside finish 50 pounds
Solar 50 pounds
Battery 100 pounds
Roof Vents 40 pounds
Yeti Cooler 60 pounds
Heater 25 pounds
Cushions 25 pounds
Stove 15 pounds
Lifting panels 15 pounds
Canvas 30 pounds
Roof Rack 30 pounds
Total 1220 pounds
Frame 250 pounds
Floor pack 220 pounds
Build up floor 2" for insulation using 2x2 and 1/2" ply subfloor 50 pounds
Windows 50 pounds
Benches and cabinets 150 pounds
LVT Flooring 60 pounds
Bead board inside finish 50 pounds
Solar 50 pounds
Battery 100 pounds
Roof Vents 40 pounds
Yeti Cooler 60 pounds
Heater 25 pounds
Cushions 25 pounds
Stove 15 pounds
Lifting panels 15 pounds
Canvas 30 pounds
Roof Rack 30 pounds
Total 1220 pounds
BBZ
Senior Member
Hmmm... my Grandby is 1050#. I have no heater or yeti cooler.. and used a rubber one piece floor that isn't as heavy as the LVTBerts said:
Similar threads
- j_f
- Four Wheel Camper Discussions
- Replies: 10
- Views: 408
- SigSanDiego
- Four Wheel Camper Discussions
- Replies: 4
- Views: 588
- enzob
- All Terrain Camper Discussions
- Replies: 26
- Views: 578
