Breaking Tire Lug Studs. (and other tire issues)

WI

wicked1

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2020
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190
On my last trip I had a tire issue, and was very lucky about how it happened.
I had stopped for lunch in a small town. Walked around to check on things before getting back on the road. And, my tire valve stem was puffed up like a balloon. I sent a pic to a friend who had never seen it, then was writing a text to a mechanic I know.. and while doing it, PPFFFFFFSSSSSSsssssss it ruptured and let the air out of my tire.
I'm well prepared.. Have a good jack, tools, spare. Start taking the lugs off.. Tight. I have to stand on the tire wrench. It finally starts turning, and.. the lug stud spins off. Try the next, and it happens again.
I gave up, looked up a local tire shop, and they came and got my remaining lugs off w/ an impact wrench so we could get the spare on and drive to the shop.
They fixed the studs, valve stem, and loosened and re-torqued all my lug nuts. (Total cost.... $60!)

What could I do if this happened 100 miles out in the desert or something? I'm prepared for a lot of things, but don't know what I could have done in this situation. I found emergency valve stems you can install from the outside. But what about the lug studs? Being able to change a tire is a basic task everyone needs to be able to do out on the trail. And I couldn't do it.
 
" the lug stud spins off", I'm guessing you mean the lugs broke off. Before heading off into the back country, I suggest retorquing all lugs to OEM specs anytime the tire shops worked on the vehicle to prevent the same situation occurring. Discount tires in my area always uses a torque wrench during installation. Also, If the lugs haven't been off in years and looked rusted, loosen and retorque, maybe add a some never seize if rusting persists due to road salt or many water crossings.. In the event that it happens out in the sticks, you'll need replacement parts and the tools to remove your hubs and/or drums and a sizeable hammer and punch to drive out the old broken lugs.
 
wicked1 said:
. . . What could I do if this happened 100 miles out in the desert or something? I'm prepared for a lot of things, but don't know what I could have done in this situation . . .
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Being from salt-esota I always put anti-seize on all my lug studs. And I do my own tire rotations, so I am removing and retightening the lugs a couple of times a year.

What to do?
If I sheared less than half of the studs on one tire AND I will not have to put a lot of torque or lateral force on the wheel to drive out, I would drive out very carefully. Otherwise I would steal lugs from the other wheels (and drive out very carefully).
 
It sounds to me like whoever installed your tires last did so with an impact wrench and just let it hammer on, over-torquing them. Properly torqued lug nuts shouldn't cause this issue. With that said, the advice about anti-seize is good anywhere.

I also did not understand if you meant the studs unscrewed or snapped off?
 
I haven't tried it personally but using a flare to heat the lugs may work in this case.
 
craig333 said:
I haven't tried it personally but using a flare to heat the lugs may work in this case.
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I remember on the show Big Bang Theory the guys used a flare and they burned down a van trying to remove the lug nuts.
 
To clarify, the studs broke off.. I said 'spun off' because that's how it happened.. It felt like the lug was loosening, but it was actually the stud metal twisting and breaking.

In this situation, w/ the tools I had, I think I would have broken all of them if I kept trying. The tacoma tire wrench has an unfortunate angle which puts a LOT of down force, rather than twisting force, on the lugs. My socket wrench I keep in the truck wasn't strong enough.

So I guess to fix this on the trail, as Beach said, I'd need extra studs, and the tools to take off the brake drum and punch out the old studs.. I guess a more realistic option is to preemptively check them before each trip as a few others have said..
 
Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut.
 
It is a good idea to do some reading on dry torque versus wet torque if you decide to use anti-sieze compound. Installing wet increases bolt tension about 20% versus dry at a given torque. This matters in some situations. Most owner’s and shop manuals I’ve seen specifically call for clean, dry installation of lug nuts/bolts.
 
Jon R said:
It is a good idea to do some reading on dry torque versus wet torque if you decide to use anti-sieze compound. Installing wet increases bolt tension about 20% versus dry at a given torque. This matters in some situations. Most owner’s and shop manuals I’ve seen specifically call for clean, dry installation of lug nuts/bolts.
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True. But those specs were created for a clean, dry, un-corroded thread; something I won't see after a winter in Minnesota. Most lug threads here will have a resistive drag from corrosion that gives a higher torque reading, resulting in less than the desired bolt stretch (under tightening).
 
billharr said:
Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut.
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X2 on the 4-way lug wrench. I always keep one aboard specifically because of the crappy angle and resulting lack of real leverage the OEM lug wrench provides. In these modern times, I keep a Klutch 1/2" drive cordless impact wrench and a set of deep well impact sockets aboard, also. For a more precise set-up on using the 4-way, a jack stand can be positioned to hold the opposite leg of the 4-way in a position more perpendicular to the wheel and can act to better allow application of some "foot torque" to the problem. One wonders if your lug studs would have sheared off as readily if not for the angled force which standing on the OEM wrench created.

Foy
 
Vic Harder said:
Meaning we should reduce the torque by 20% when using lube?
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If similar bolt tension is your goal then yes, but there’s also the concern of the nut loosening to consider. Personally, I keep the studs and nuts clean, loosen and retorque every year on vehicles that don’t get tires rotated, and I don’t use lubricant or anti-sieze compound. I live near Seattle where road salt isn’t used, so that works for me. I understand others live in high corrosion areas and use other practices. However, if you are choosing not to follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on a critical fastener, it should be based on knowledge of the effects.
 
billharr said:
Lug wrenches that come on most vehicles are not good. One handle and at an angle. I have always replaced with a old style cross or X style wrench. Two years ago a friend had a flat when we were off road. He jacked up his truck, put a jack stand under the axle (you should carry a jack stand). Out comes his cordless 1/2 inch impact wrench. One of the first things I purchased for my new van was a cordless 1/2 impact wrench. And yes it is for removal only, never used to tighten a lug nut.
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If you get the proper Torque limiting extension (torque stick) you are fine to use the impact wrench to install the lug nuts.

I carry my 1/2 Milwauke in my truck and have a 140ftlb torque stick with the right size impact socket. (factory spec is 150 ftlb +-10).
I checked it after I got it and it is extremely consistent.

With that high of a torque a 4 way didn't work well for me, I used to carry a long 1/2" breaker bar.
 
In another life (back when I was young man) I once had a tire come off my Jeep and roll down the hill. Fortunately it was on a trail at an extremely slow speed and another participant had spare lug nuts. Another time in an old dodge I lost two lug nuts and the other three had wallowed out the holes to the point I had to be towed.

Pay attention to odd vibrations. On the Jeep I thought I had a u-joint going bad.

I carry X-style wrenches in both vehicles. Since I started using anti-seize I've never had an issue with lugs coming loose. I've had pretty good luck just using my "that feels about right" type torqueing. Probably a good idea to check the lugs about the same time you check the tie downs.
 
In another life (back when I was young man) [Thanks Craig!] I worked evenings and weekends at my dad's gas station. I fixed a lot of flats, changed a lot of tires. Got pretty good at lug nut tightening. Also learned to fear split rims as if they were bombs -- ready to explode if not handled just right. I do have a mechanical torque wrench. Works pretty well. Also use a star wrench. I have the dealer rotate the tires during regular service. Eyeball the lugs afterwards, and carefully listen/feel for anything not right after the service work. Sometimes in years past I have found loose lug nuts. The OEM wrench is pathetic, but if you use a cheater bar and don't let anything twist from perpendicular, even a little, you should be o.k.
 
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