Carrying on the Roof questions

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Moose man

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I have been looking at FWC for some time now.

I just have one question for you guys. How do you carry things on the roof if you cannot walk on it?

Being able to carry a kayak for me is a must but not being ale to walk on the roof to strap it down or load it will be a problem unless I am wrong?

Any insight would be helpful

Thanks

Jim
 
Putting boats on the roof is much easier with a pop-up than with a regular truck camper. The lower height makes sliding a boat up a simple task even for short people.
Most of us have some kind of rack permanently attached to the roof. Strapping the boat to that rack does require some gymnastics unless you carry a small step ladder but I usually stick with the gymnastics. If you strap the boat mostly to the roof rack (I usually include a bow rope to the front bumper, just in case) then you have the option of leaving the boat in place when you raise the roof. This requires a bit stronger push - I use a crank type pole to lift the roof with our canoe in place.
Loading a canoe is only slightly harder than loading it on a car.
 
So the next question is can the roof handle a Thule hullivator? This could eliminate having to get up there all together

Thanks

Jim
 
So the next question is can the roof handle a Thule hullivator? This could eliminate having to get up there all together

Thanks

Jim


Hi Jim. My Hawk came with a hullivator and I used it for a season. I was impressed with the complexity of the mechanism, but it was fairly awkward and buying a second one would have been expensive. I sold it and went with the Yak 'hully roller + saddle' combo.

Using our step ladder, I can load a 50# 12' kayak solo, or with my GF, it's even easier to load. I mostly need the step ladder to do the strapping down, especially at the front bar. We can pop the top with both 'yaks up top, using the 40# gas struts, but that takes two of us giving the heave ho!

Hope that helps.

Andy
 
I have been looking at FWC for some time now.

I just have one question for you guys. How do you carry things on the roof if you cannot walk on it?

Being able to carry a kayak for me is a must but not being ale to walk on the roof to strap it down or load it will be a problem unless I am wrong?

Any insight would be helpful

Thanks

Jim

I carry a 12' canoe on the roof.I designed a rack that attaches to the factory front and read rack.It takes the two of us to lift the canoe (I can actually do it myself,but it works better with two) than slide it forward on the "track" that forms the boat rack.It has worked well.As we get older though the weight of getting the canoe onto the roof is not getting any easier,but it still can work.As for walking on the roof,if it will take a 1,000 pounds of snow I think one can carefully walk on it.I don't make a habit of that but when I do go up I make sure to stay on the ribs of the roof.
I don't need to get on the roof to strap the canoe down nor use a step ladder.On the front I can stand,with truck door open on the seat and attach the front "ratchet"strap.Than on the rear I use the rear wall "steps".
Lifting the top isn't very hard as I also have the #40 lifters.
Frank
 
I don't carry my kayak often but in the past I have crawled on the roof carefully on my hands and knees to secure the front of the kayak. I do have a platform on the rear which does not contact the roof so I am really only crawling on the front section. I have since added folding steps to the front of my camper to alleviate this problem.
Bottom line is you can get on the roof if necessary, it does hold 1200 pounds. But as you can see there are work arounds to alleviate having to do so.
 
I was able to carry 100lb plus on top of the roof using the Yakima "hully rollers", my GF and I developed a system where we both would lift the roof when we didn't feel like unloading the kayaks. It wasn't as hard as I thought, of course having FWC 80lb hydralic lift system is essential. When I'm not carrying kayaks I have a basket up top that holds extra water, gas or fire wood. No problem and a couple of thousand miles with the kayaks on top and counting.
 
We carry a 65# Wilderness tandem from time to time and considered most if not all the loading assist options mentioned. I ended up using a Yakima Boatloader and Gunwale Brackets. They add very little weight to the roof and allows me to load the kayak by myself. Like Andy I use a stepladder, 4 foot, to strap it down.

As far as the weight the roof will handle, remember 1,000# of snow would be evenly distributed. The roof is actually pretty fragile for spot or concentrated weight so be careful if you crawl up there. I have laid out from the waist up on it to adjust tie down straps but most of my weight is on the edge and try not to concentrate it on one spot.

I have 80# struts and it's still a pretty good lift with the kayak on top but can be done. We also have a lift assist crank and think it works pretty well to get the roof to a point where it's easier to lock up with weight on it.
 
Thanks all for the helpful responses.

I have a 13' ocean kayak and really want the ability to take it with me.

Now I wonder if there would be room to stow a ladder under the platform of one of the new flat bed models. Hmmmmmmm

Jim

Btw if you have more insights or pictures keep em coming!
 
I carry 2 kayaks using Yakima Hully rollers and saddles. I also added a cross bar at the rear so the kayak doesn't slide on the edge of the camper. I use a 3 step stool to attach the tie downs.
 

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Hey there, 2011 Eagle on Tacoma... We got he aluminum racks and had a "roof rack malfunction" on a trip in Maine. The aluminum is not strong enough to handle 2 boats with any stress.... trust me on this... e replaced them with the Yakima and love them... excellent support...very secure. Those who said that it is easier to load a FWC are speaking truth. I would suggest a bar at the rear and one over the hangover cab area 1-2 feet front of front wall... depending on length of canoe. A 2 seat lightweight aluminum step ladder is a great thing to have... back entrance stairs and loading the boats... no need to be on roof. Load from the back with straps in place before. 15 minutes = 2 boats up and secure.
The attached photo is with the aluminum... looks good but go with the Yakima (full top length).
 

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Buckland...I very highly suggest you strap the front and back of those canoes to your trucks bumpers.
 
I wondered if using the foam blocks would be adequate, after all most of the people are using the fancy (and expensive ) kayak carriers. I thought maybe I'd find out why. Hasn't been my experience so far. I do strap them front and rear in addition to the cross kayak straps.
 
Buckland...I very highly suggest you strap the front and back of those canoes to your trucks bumpers.

X2, Those Yakima racks will rip out of the roof eventually if you don't.
 
I wondered if using the foam blocks would be adequate, after all most of the people are using the fancy (and expensive ) kayak carriers. I thought maybe I'd find out why. Hasn't been my experience so far. I do strap them front and rear in addition to the cross kayak straps.

I use the gunwale brackets which are not much different from foam blocks. The proved a little extra lateral support. I wouldn't have any qualm just using pad roles.
 
Hey there, 2011 Eagle on Tacoma... We got he aluminum racks and had a "roof rack malfunction" on a trip in Maine. The aluminum is not strong enough to handle 2 boats with any stress.... trust me on this... e replaced them with the Yakima and love them... excellent support...very secure. Those who said that it is easier to load a FWC are speaking truth. I would suggest a bar at the rear and one over the hangover cab area 1-2 feet front of front wall... depending on length of canoe. A 2 seat lightweight aluminum step ladder is a great thing to have... back entrance stairs and loading the boats... no need to be on roof. Load from the back with straps in place before. 15 minutes = 2 boats up and secure.
The attached photo is with the aluminum... looks good but go with the Yakima (full top length).



Can you show use how the yakima tracks are mounted? I'm curious because I have a set of Yakima track ready to be installed. I believe the difference between the square aluminum tubing rack and yakima, is that more screws are used on the yakima tracks therefore it is a strong racks system.
 
Well yes you are absolutely correct Jbahr... We took that photo before putting the front lines on... Those front and back lines are essential for side wind and sudden stops. The Yakima system (Tracks full length) works great, not only because of the number screws but because the tracks are secured to the roof 'joists' all the way down the length as opposed to laterally across them. The cross bars then put all the stress over that wide foot-print. It is very secure and it is adjustable. My wife has a small canoe and I have a 16 ft one... being able to slide the cross bars is real nice. FWC stood behind me and the change over to new racks. I am a happy camper.
 
Thought I'd chime in on this topic to support using the Yakima tracks mounted on the roof. I've had two different FWC Granby's in the past 15 years and have carried canoes on them frequently. Farther back, it was a heavier wood/canvas canoe and more recently a very light weight 17.5 footer. As mentioned earlier, it's not a good idea to carry boats on the roof without also securing them to the front and rear bumpers. If you had a failure in the rack or the straps on the roof it could break loose during an emergency stop or in really high winds creating a missile. The advantage of the tracks is that they allow one to vary the position of the rack feet fore and aft. I also at times mounted Yakima "basket cases" up there to carry a variety of lightweight objects that can ride out in the weather.

As far as reaching the racks to strap things down, I have the rear wall steps, which work well. In addition, years ago I purchased a lightweight, compact, foldable ladder. My original 1998 Grandby was mounted on my '99 Ford F250 4x4 that came with a "camper package", so it sat high of the ground. The older FWC's had exterior window flaps in addition to the inside covers. They were so high of the ground that I could not open them without a ladder. I recall I purchased it at Camping World. The one I have is a "straight ladder" and, when closed, measures 6' x 3.25" x 2". It fit nicely on the passenger side window ledge when folded up. I can't remember the brand and the sticker is missing off of my ladder but I've pasted in the link below showing Camping World's current offering. Looks like the same manufacture. Doesn't show the "straight" ladder. Not sure if they discontinued it or whether CW just doesn't stock it. The 6' Compact ladder is the nearest to what I have. Only difference is the addition of the bracing on the back side to allow it to free stand. I had to lean mine against the camper wall. The freestanding unit would have some advantages in my opinion. Folded size is 6' x 3.5" X 3.5", so not much different than mine, but likely slightly heavier.

http://www.campingworld.com/search/index.cfm?Ntt=Folding+ladder&N=0&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=primary&Nty=1&Ntpc=1&Ns=p_sort_default

Good Luck

TGK
 
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