Cigarette plugs

A

Atlin

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2015
Messages
134
Location
Sequim, WA; Atlin, BC
I have a couple of things that run off of the standard "cigarette plug" outlet in my vehicles. Most of the plugs (male parts) are garbage and don't work very well. Has anyone found a source of better quality plugs that could be used to replace the crappy ones that come standard with most things?
 
We are on our 5th generation of plugs. First 1 A, then 2 A, then 3.0 Quick Charge, then PD&QC. We now have 2 GaN 60 W plugs to run our laptops and the other plugs are at least Quick Charge 3.0.

Expect to replace your plugs every few years, if only because the technology changes. I'd look for Anker plugs. Check the Amazon reviews, especially the 4, 3 and 2 star reviews; 1 and 5 star are often shills. The main issue I have is the plug working lose on our kind of roads. It's somewhat hit or miss, but if the ground/negative bars on the side of the plug are longer, they tend to stay put.
 
If you replace both the plug and the socket with Blue Sea Systems matching components then those will 'lock' together with a 1/4 turn while still working with other plugs or sockets. They just won't lock when mated to other mfg's products.

I really like the Blue Sea sockets. I'm not so keen on their plugs, but short of tracking down DIN power point components I don't know of a better solution. Their plugs aren't bad, and they're a heck of lot better than some of the plugs out there, but they could be a lot better.
 
Something to consider if you're having a pain-in-the-butt problem with a 12-volt plug coming out of its socket...

I use double-socket extensions/splitters in the cabs of my truck and van to have enough 12-volt sockets. Though it's the Blue Sea one, its plug was still popping out while driving as the truck/van socket side isn't a Blue-Sea twist-lock one. I'd hear my GPS alert with a loss-of-power beep and have to reach over and push the plug back in. That was happening several times a day on a long drive.

In April of 2021 I decided to try putting a thin strip of something between plug and receptacle to make it more of an interference fit and see how that goes.

I bought a small sheet of 1mm-thick high-temp silicone with an adhesive backing. I thought I'd first just try a small piece-- only about a 1/2" wide and maybe an inch long. And I left the backing on for the test.

That worked perfectly and I've used it ever since. I should note that the piece of silicone falls out when I remove that plug. That's not an issue for me as I leave the double-socket extensions plugged in almost all the time. I did try removing the adhesive backing to adhere the silicone to the plug but that didn't last.

Edited 8/31 to add---

I had some work to do on the van this morning (after posting) and thought I'd check the plug. When I saw the silicone sticking out I remembered that I had later made the piece of silicone a bit larger so it sticks out and reminds me its there when I reach to pull the plug. This one is 3/4" x 1-1/2".

CigarettePlugSilicone.jpg
 
FWIW, Blue Sea Systems and Marinco are the same product. It is either that Blue Sea owns Marinco or they're both owned by the same company. Same is true with BEP Marine, you'll see some of their product with a Blue Sea Systems label on it.

In both of my Toyotas I've replaced the OEM socket with a Blue Sea/Marinco socket. Had to change the 12VDC+ terminal to do so.
 
I didn't think that it was well known, but nor did I think that it was news either. Note the other names under the Marinco header.

Looking at the amazon link above I'm not finding the 10A rating listed. The norm for these is 15A. Did I miss the 10A rating somewhere?
The Blue Sea page for the plug doesn't mention the ampacity, but their page for the socket says 15A. Likewise, the Marinco page for the socket says 15A
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1011/Dash_Socket_12V_DC_with_Watertight_Cap
https://www.marinco.com/en/p/12VRC/12V-Receptacle-Black

AHA! The Marinco page for the plug says that it comes with a 10A fuse and that is it''s max rating.
https://www.marinco.com/en/p/12VPG/12V-Plug
 
We actually removed the FWC USB panel and wired three three sockets in our front dinette Fleet - one behind each seat just below the counter and one below the front window. Getting in and out of the seats no longer dumps electronics onto the floor. It's not a particularly difficult job, as 12 V is nearby the seats and running a wire to below the front window just involves about 12 screws. The passenger side is real easy; the driver side and front socket require removal of the kitchen fascia.

If you install your own sockets, then the Blue Sea twist plugs are the way to go.

I don't see Blue Sea having any GaN (Gallium Nitride) plugs, but look/wait for them. GaN is much more efficient than silicon allowing for more power, less heat, smaller size and better reliability.

Also, make sure your socket can handle the power. I had one socket get hot and had to replace it. For Blue Sea, make sure the socket is suitable for the plug power. Otherwise I recommend the old all metal sockets originally designed for cigarette lighters.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. The problem is not the plug falling out, it's what Jack mentions - plugs get hot and melt the cheap plastic before the fuse blows. (my application is for a Coleman piezo cooler, which does take some power) I'm considering just ripping out the cigarette plug and going with Anderson powerpole plugs. Upside is they would be able to handle the current and don't use cheap plastic (and the auto fuse would protect the wires). Downside is this would be a single-use item, not available for other cigarette plug appliances. But I have three built into the F150, so sacrificing one is not too big of a deal.
 
Sounds to me like you're at the tipping point where putting in a separate fuse block (chose one that uses the same fuses as the truck!) and running a dedicated power feed for the cooler.
 
Atlin said:
Thanks for the suggestions. The problem is not the plug falling out, it's what Jack mentions - plugs get hot and melt the cheap plastic before the fuse blows. (my application is for a Coleman piezo cooler, which does take some power) I'm considering just ripping out the cigarette plug and going with Anderson powerpole plugs.
Click to expand...
Powerpole connectors are nice, because they don't tend to wiggle out of position.

That said, my advise is to punt with regards to the piezo electric cooler. Over the summer, I was able to purchase an in between sized 30 quart F40C4TMP brand DC compressor fridge for $239 shipped during an Amazon sale. The 30 quart is the smallest size that will hold a full sized milk jug or carton in the upright position.

The F40C4TMP is an off-brand, but except for the color, it looks identical to a BougeRV 30 quart 12V DC fridge for which there are plenty of reviews for on youtube.

Note: The price of the F40C4TMP unit can be all over the place and is usually listed at $299 - I've seen the price as low as $229.
 
Thanks all for the replies. I'll look into the compressor fridge - much better and more efficient appliance (similar ones were in the multi-hundred-dollar range when I bought my Coleman for $79). I actually have two of the Colemans so am reluctant to change over completely. Not sure what amps they pull, but about 5-7. They will run on a 5A glass fuse for a day or so before blowing it, and I've never had a 10A fuse blow. I've never had the Ford fuse blow either.

Might just wire something up for the Coleman and also get the compressor fridge - gives me options.....
 
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