CO top splay

Sorry, arborite is your laminate counter top, for the top rod I did not have one, but on the rebuild it will easy. We will be hear when you do your door. as for the Camper, I would recommend rising the top up and setting it on 2X4s in the corners remove the slides and check they are not binding as well the angle iron brackets are not hanging up with loose screws.check you measurements. Let me know if we can help,

John
 
Door is off the camper and on the bench. Once i removed the window, I thought it would be a good idea to see if it was still warped. It was not but it needs redoing anyway. I now have it partially disassembled but am running into the nail problem. I have tried grinding with several tools,;an air powered die grinder with a carbide bit and a Dremel tool with both a grinding stone and a little carbide bit. The air powered tool had too much torque and I could not keep it on the the head of the nail ( domed and hardened) causing it skitter off target and grind the aluminum flashing. The Dremel tool was easier to control but would easliy slip off the nail head, scratching the flashing. I have considered covering the flashing with blue tape but am not sure it will help. It may also just be that my 71 year old hands are just not that steady anymore and I am going to have to cover the flashing with a second piece of aluminum when I am done to clean it up. The twist nails are a PITA. How did this grinding go for you john? Thanks for the help.

Nick
 
Before I knew I was buying new siding, I tried many ways to get the nails out. Mine were so rusty that it was tough. I ended up just popping the siding over the nail head, most of the time it makes a nice hole the size of the nail head, which I then hammered down as best I could. I was going to put a dab of caulk over each hole. In my case they were all inside where they don't show. I don't have pics because I took the whole thing to the dump and made a new one, but I had better success that way vice trying to pull the nails
 
After trying grinding the heads and not finding it satisfactory, I have found a way to get the nails out much easier. I took an old pair of dykes and ground one side flat. Then I could get flat against the tin, under the head of the nail and lever twist it out. On many of the nails, I had to use an old socket and punch down the tin around the nail in order to get under the head. This process has worked quite well and certainly is faster than grinding the heads off which was a b****ch at the very least. I also used this Carson tack pulling tool on the staples which was very handy. I almost have the door totally apart; still have to pull the staples on the door skin. Turns out the core of my door is not two solid pieces of 3/4 plywood but one solid piece on the outside and then several butted pieces of 3/4 on the inside. I was considering using two solid pieces of 3/4 in rebuilding the door which I think would be more stable?

Nick
 

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it always amazes me what folks find inside spaces where we don't usually go.....someone was being "frugal" with plywood

That's an interesting method for screwnail extraction......good method...

what does the method leave on the face of the siding?....got a pic?....this is one of those constantly reoccurring issues..

carson tack pulling tool?....
 
As long as you use a piece of thin metal under the head of the dykes it does not leave any dents or marks. It worked really well once I got the hang of it. A Carson tack puller is a thin hardened fork used by upholsters to remove tacks from furniture. It is well made and I used it many times removing staples from the Alaskan. Especially if you use a piece of metal as a fulcrum and to protect the sheet aluminum.I will post some photos of my door progress.
 
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I used this with my air die grinder it worked really well, go slow I would make a dimple in the middle and grind down, head would pop off, only screw ups was when I would rush. Sorry was in Oregon last week just got home or would have replied sooner.
 

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