Compressor Fridge Recommendation

norcalhusky

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Apr 7, 2014
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Im looking to replace my 3 way absorption fridge with a compressor fridge while Im in the middle of the small remodel right now in my 1999 Hawk. I see that SLO put an Engel SB70F 60 QT version in his that slid right in and looked like a very easy clean install.

I considered switching over to a chest style ARB one but can't really find what would be a good location for one of those so am shying away from the idea.

What would your recommendations be for? (bonus points if Amazon sells it!)

Thanks
 
I've been really happy with my IsoTherm 65, Required some minor shaving around the opening to get it to fit but nothing significant. The bigger issue is probably how you are going to power it. I have two flooded group 31 batteries and 200W of solar with a PWM controller and with this setup I am able to leave the fridge running all the time without significant draw down on the batteries. It is nice having some basics always stocked in the fridge for quick weekend getaways as well as a couple cold beers to enjoy in the parking lot after an evening climbing session.

I ordered my fridge from the local West Marine as they just brought it in on their regular weekly shipment and there was no additional freight charge.
 
I've got a 50qt ARB and I enjoy the portability of it. It is usually strapped into the back seat for access while driving and more often than not it stays there. If we are staying in a spot for more than one night it moves into the camper on the floor. Yes, it takes up space but we don't really spend much time in the camper unless its bed time or the weather is bad.

That said, it would be hard to beat the simplicity of having a dedicated fridge in the camper that doesn't take up space and can "on demand" at all times. It really comes down to personal preference and what works best for you. It should also be noted that we have a group 31 in the camper and do not have solar, the group 31 gives me 3-4 days before I start having battery concerns.
 
thanks for the replies so far. I plan on powering it with 100W roof mounted solar with a MPPT controller. I currently have one 63AH Interstate AGM Deep Cycle battery. If those dont cut it, I will add a second battery and another portable panel. I dont really have any other power draws except LED lighting and the water pump for the sink.
 
I power my ATC Couger and it's Engel MT45 with a 85 watt panel and 75ah batt. We sat on the beach at Bahia Requeson for 5 days with plenty of power and never needed ice. Drove to Gonzaga and ditto.
 
I have a Waeco CR 65. I like the front load with a freezer, ice cream is a nice treat when camping. I went small just me and the wife so that is all we need. Also gave us more storage above. Doing again I might go the 80 for a little more cold storage, would lose some storage above. We have the fridge packed most of the time when gone over a week. Frozen veg and ice cream in the freezer and normal drinks and food in the bottom,
 
The isotherm seems to have a separate unit that can reduce battery usage up to 50%? Is it that much better than the competition or are the other brands more efficient to begin with?

Is the waeco the same as the dometic?
 
They all seem to work just fine. It would great to have an unbiased comparison of energy usage, efficiency etc of the various brands.
 
craig333 said:
They all seem to work just fine. It would great to have an unbiased comparison of energy usage, efficiency etc of the various brands.
I know my buddies front opening truck fridge pulls more amps that my top loader ARB but I'm not sure how the truck fridge top loader would stack up against, IE is it the fact there is a freezer section in the truck fridge that causes it to run a tad more or such? Either way a bit of properly sized solar can neutralize that aspect. I'd stew mostly on whether you want a top loader or front opener, I certainly see pros/cons to both. Having a freezer for ice, drinks on the door, can be nice. Top loaders can be portable, stuff doesn't fall out (but you have to dig at times), hold in their cold more when opened, catch spills.
 
norcalhusky said:
The isotherm seems to have a separate unit that can reduce battery usage up to 50%? Is it that much better than the competition or are the other brands more efficient to begin with?...
Are you referring to the Isotherm ASU - Automatic Start Up option?

The ASU decreases battery usage (kinda...) by using "surplus power" -- when the battery is being charged -- to run the compressor harder to freeze a cold ballast -- a container of freezable liquid.
So, technically, it's not more efficient -- i.e., it doesn't use less power for the same result, it just has a way to put aside a reserve of "cold" when there's power to spare.

BUT: it may not really be power to spare: if the ASU is putting some of that "surplus power" into the fridge when the battery is being charged then the battery is being charged more slowly. But the principle is still sound if "at the end of the day" you can still get the battery topped up despite the drain of charging power by the ASU.

I have the Isotherm Cruise 130 -- with ASU.
 
pods8 said:
MarkBC, interesting on the ASU, is there an option to bypass it if needed?
pods8: Note that my CR 130 is of mid-2011 vintage, and I don't know how later/current models are different, but I think they are.

I also should clarify what I said in the post above: The ASU doesn't make the compressor run extra fast when there's surplus power, it just runs at full speed. It's special ability is that it runs the compressor slower when pulling from a battery that isn't being charged. (like, maybe when it senses that the battery voltage is less than 13 volts..??...something like that).

Anyway...my 2011 model CR 130:
There is a 3-way toggle switch that, besides "Off", can select "Normal.Auto" -- meaning with ASU engaged, or "Man.Temp", meaning ASU is not working. Here's how the manual that came with mine describes it:

2.2 Temperature setting ASU
The Isotherm refrigerators with ASU can be operated
in two ways. When energy saving is needed, switch to
”NORMAL.AUTO” position.
Optimal refrigeration temperature is than automatically
maintained while consuming the lowest amount of
battery power possible. When there is no need of energy
saving, switch to “MAN.TEMP” position on the panel.
The automatic function is now partially blocked and
refrigeration temperature can be manually adjusted. In its
centre position, the unit is switched off....

The thing is, when in "Normal Auto" -- with the ASU in control -- you can't set the temperature: ASU knows best, apparently. It's only when in Manual Temp mode (thus, the name) that turning the temperature setpoint dial does anything.

Speaking of the manual temperature control: Unlike some other brands of compressor fridge that have a digital temperature setting, one that allows you to enter/select a specific numerical-temperature setpoint (e.g., 36°F), this CR130 with ASU doesn't have anything that sophisticated. All it has is a little knob with a symbolic image wrapped around it, like this:
CR130_ASU-1.jpg
(imagine it curved, which I can't draw easily)

Here's the full manual if you/anyone is really interested in reading more about operation of this model, but again, I think current versions are at least somewhat different:
View attachment Isotherm_Cruise_42_130_Manual.pdf
 
craig333 said:
I see... The description of this includes what my ASU does, but with other features/qualities added. I see the last line in the "how it works is" sounds like the 2011 ASU:
  • The cooling energy is stored when a power surplus is available (engine on or connection to grid) and reused first, before the fridge runs on battery
It's a great installation video. :) (even with the cheesy techno-pop soundtrack. :D And apparently the installation is easy enough that you can do it even with a French manicure. ;) )
 
craig333 said:
Yep I was referring to that particular upgrade. Kind of looks like a pain to install...

I think I like the design of the Waeco/Dometic CR-1065 the best so far.. Does anyone know if it has something like a digital temperature adjustment or just a knob with some random numbers on it? It doesn't seem to indicate what sort of controls it has on the product brochure that I have found.

Though the price on the Engel seems nice too. Can almost buy a Fantastic fan with the difference (at least with Amazon pricing)...
 
It wasn't a bad install at all. I posted my install of it here somewhere. Its not cheap though.
 

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