done with the traditional Dometic 3 way.

wagoneer

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2018
Messages
173
Location
San Francisco
Yes it works but I need to be super level and the spots I pick I rarely get that option. I have seen full 12 volt (Danfoss) models and they are pricey. I need to bring my WAICO (DOMETIC) chest fridge and it sits in the small hallway, sure I use it to sit on and to climb into bed. OK has anyone been in this postion? Have not posted for a while side tracked with family issues, and or money. Anyway hello all you helpfull people.
 
I'd be surprised that it had problems working if you were going to raise the top on an Alaskan. I find that if I don't get some leveling for the truck, that the top binds one the way up and/or on the way down.....I know if you just climb into the back to hit the hay without putting up the top that you might be on a pretty steeper grade.

However, since these units are supposed to be able to run on propane while driving down the Happy Highway, it would seem that they should work when you go UP or Down a pretty steep road....

So...before abandoning all hope, maybe someone here with more experience than you and I can tell us why it would not work on propane on an uneven surface. Maybe some kind soul has the manual for that unit and can see what the mfger says about using propane on the highway and how level your rig has to be for it to be at its most efficient....
 
I also had a lot of problems with my propane fridge, actually two of them I now have a 12 volt electric one don't know the name but it is made in Germany. I ran my fridge with the top down but installed two computer fans to circulate air even when moving. Not parking on level ground was the answer I got for my propane fridges going out.
 
The flame in a propane fridge needs to burn straight up the flue and not be directed at the wall of the flue as it would be when off angle. The reason a propane fridge works on the highway in varying terrain is because the truck is varying the off angles so the flame only gets pointed at the side of the flue for a short time and the spots on the flue that the flame gets pointed at will vary.

With newer 3 way fridges, say about a dozen years old or newer, if the RV is level enough to sleep in, then it should be level enough for the propane fridge to work.

In really hot weather a propane fridge works better if there is a 12v fan mounted near the plumbing and blowing warm air out the upper vent.
 
DanoT covered just about all of it. I would add that you need to be “mostly level” so that the “boiling ammonia”, the refrigerant, can flow smoothly. Additionally, a small fan inside the unit helps spread cold air to all of the nooks and crannies. But that holds true of the 12v compressor models also.

My experience with these units is limited to our motorhome, where I run it exclusively on propane...even when we have full hookups. Yes, it gets much colder on propane rather than 12v/110v. Our biggest issue has been making sure that the tiny burner orifice is kept free of tiny little spiders and their webs. I end up cleaning out the compartment with compressed air virtually every trip we make. Those little suckers are prolific!
 
Cleaning out the spider webs in the stove burners will improve the flame look as well....those tubes look to e perfect hide-aways for the little critters.
 
hi there,
on a 95 10' cabover, does anyone know what the illuminated toggle switch does mounted next to the thermostat? is it 3-way fridge related?

thanks
flyboykev
 
I've now put a compressor fridge in two pop-top campers. Ironically the exact same model from the exact same vendor in radically different pop-tops. The first one was preceded by a lot of hemming and hawing over many trips with spoiled food. The second one got exactly one chance to work right and then it got replaced. It is a lot of money. I've never looked back.
 
Thanks guys I cleaned the burn area and noticed the little fan was not working. I will look into that lucky to have the original scematics.
 
I have the Novakool fridge and love it, just works. I wish it was the bigger model though, it’s tight when we go on longer trips.
 
flyboykev said:
hi there,
on a 95 10' cabover, does anyone know what the illuminated toggle switch does mounted next to the thermostat? is it 3-way fridge related?

thanks
flyboykev
It turned on the computer fan on the outside vent. It will automatically turn on when the temperature gets high enough to warrant more airflow.
 
I still have my original frig. It was working fine last summer but for some reason, it has stopped. I have 110v going through to the controls but not sure if something is burned out or not? I'm really needing it now but I guess a cooler is better than nothing. The frig is very small too. Not going to get much in there so I may just stick with a cooler.
 
My understanding of the 3 way fridge is different than I read here:
About the best that can be achieved is a delta 40 degrees F and 30 is more realistic.
The reason they need to be level is to return the condensed ammonia mix back down the swirly tube without creating a liquid trap. The toss and turn of moving unit is enough to clear the tube of liquid.
The performance should be the same with LP, 12V or 120V as the limitation is in the refrigerant.
In our unit the flame will not stay lit in high wind (like driving down the road). Safety dictates having LP off at tank when driving.
It is a good idea to have a small fan on the exterior fins to help cool them for max temp differential. Ours is on a 90degF thermostat. Check for that thermostat and a fuse "Wagoneer".
Sometimes I will spritz water on those fins when we stop in the hot desert afternoon.
Recently talked to an all electric Van life guy who uses his 2000w inverter and a 120V college dormitory size fridge ~$200. Says with solar and 200 Ahr he can go 3 days without engine charging help.
 
I have a 3-way dometic in my 2015 Hawk and it does work fine still. My previous Hawk was a 2006 and the 3-way was fussy. I used to use LP when driving because the 12v fridge draws lot of current. However now that I have a 100 ah Lithium battery along with my 100wat solar and DC/DC charger, I've gone back to using 12v when driving.
 
Ditto on the above comment about using compressed air to clean the burner orifice. I do it prior to any trip, weekend or long term. Going to add a can of dust off to my tool kit before my summer trip
 
2Z Bundok said:
My understanding of the 3 way fridge is different than I read here:
About the best that can be achieved is a delta 40 degrees F and 30 is more realistic.
The reason they need to be level is to return the condensed ammonia mix back down the swirly tube without creating a liquid trap. The toss and turn of moving unit is enough to clear the tube of liquid.
The performance should be the same with LP, 12V or 120V as the limitation is in the refrigerant.
In our unit the flame will not stay lit in high wind (like driving down the road). Safety dictates having LP off at tank when driving.
It is a good idea to have a small fan on the exterior fins to help cool them for max temp differential. Ours is on a 90degF thermostat. Check for that thermostat and a fuse "Wagoneer".
Sometimes I will spritz water on those fins when we stop in the hot desert afternoon.
Recently talked to an all electric Van life guy who uses his 2000w inverter and a 120V college dormitory size fridge ~$200. Says with solar and 200 Ahr he can go 3 days without engine charging help.
I build tiny houses and my normal install is a chinese fridge with a separate freezer compartment. This is important. I have 2-4 solar panels on the roof charging a LiFe PO4 100 AH battery running a 2000 watt Aims inverter. I think the fridge only uses 70 watts to get 34-38 deg fridge temps and subzero freezer temps.With just lites and the fridge we easily keep the battery fully charged. When we run our 1500 watt electric heater there is a big draw on the battery. 2 batteries would fix that but so far the $700 is too steep.
 
Back
Top Bottom