((Eagle/Fleet)) - Shell Amateur Build

Have two 40# Suspa air springs on the front (inside) with two 100W solar panels on front of roof (total weight = ~100 lbs at lift point). Very little lift help from air springs when starting as most of the force is horizontal. To lower a gentle pull on the lift bar gets it started (roof won't start coming down in front on its own). Still use the speaker lift to raise and lower front and back.

Jim - surprised that your drill will not work the lift. I have a cheap Harbour Freight 18V drill that lifts my roof easily.

jim

(Can't get pictures to post from my MacBook)
 
Jim - my drill is 9.6 volt. Lifts the back (no helper springs) easily, Next time I put it up will try my 110 volt electric drill.
Once the roof is up 80% - pushing on the lift bar easily raises it rest of the way and locks it into position. Putting it down easy too. Just pulling bar gently starts the process. Comes down slowly.

Bill - you will like the 150 watt. When bat at 75% full panel puts out 5.6 amps in January. Time to charge to 100% less than 3 hours with no fridge running. Battery now averaging 96% full all the time as I run errands and it sits off in parking lots.

Take care of your back. You don't want those problems long term.
 
Wandering- the problem adding pictures to an album in My Gallery still not fixed which was the reason I started a new album title-ing it # 2. Code problems are difficult to find. "Work-arounds" are easier to create.
 
Jim I have a Skill 1/2 lithium 18v drill. Best retirement gift I got. There is a switch on top for high speed or high torque. I raise and lower the camper jacks with this drill no problem. I did pick up an extra battery at Walmart on clearance for $18.00 but one battery will raise and lower he camper to my dolly no problem.
 
Wandering Sagebrush said:
Did you get the posting issue resolved? Anyone else having problems?
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Haven't figured it out yet. New to MacBook after years of Microsoft XP. Probably need to get my 3 Y.O. grandniece to show me how to do it.

jim
 
Bill,
I put top up today to clean camper after last camping trip. Using the hand crank took 30 seconds per end. The whole process takes 2 minutes because of manually cranking down the lift. Drill is faster though now I have another big item to store, Struts are 40 pounds. I suppose over time they lose their support. I'm going to camp with the manual crank for awhile and see how it goes. I can always purchase the 18 voilt in future. Thanks for your suggestion.
 
Quiet Hitch

We have a top step that slides into the 2 inch receiver. It has always rattled due to the "slop" between the draw bar and receiver. The movement is less than an inch - still makes the fitting feel unsecured. Our fabricator can't add a bolt to take up the slack because there is no room in the Tacoma factory tow bar receiver to add it. (See pictures)

We purchased the "Quiet Hitch" by Roadmaster through Amazon for about $25.00. Very heavy duty takes all the rattle out of the step. . Night and day difference. Now step feels secure. It also acts as a Anti-sway ring taking the sway out of the Samurai tow hitch.
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Do you notice body is sitting higher on the frame? In December we replaced the leaf springs on all four sides. The body isn't heavy enough to compress the springs so result besides riding 100% softer is a 3 inch lift. Other trick is "tire preasure". We run 20 pounds on asphalt 15 pounds off road. Much easier on my lower back and less shaking of the beers. :oops:



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This weekend I edited the original post to add FLEET observations.

One interesting idea would be cut down the mattress' s to 60" x 78" so you can use queen size fitted sheets. Any furniture upholstery shop will do this for about $200;

Then make a 48" L x 12 " W x 4 " deep clothes storage tub for shirts and underwear next to the now narrowed mattress. The large solid sided campers like Lance (click on the 855s floorplan to view ) have these top loading "tubs" in their bedroom over the cab. Check them out at your local RV dealer.
 
I'm running out of ideas ...except with the "craft beer" craze I decided to add a bottle opener to the outside rear . It got a lot of use with the fine beers Four Wheel provided at the "4th annual Owners Rally"

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Field Report
Renogy 150 watt Rigid solar panel.

We haven't camped since the Four Wheel rally end of April. I have only driven the truck 200 miles in May. When parked we store it under a carport and am getting enough reflected light off my neighbors roof to maintain a 100% full battery. The rigid appears to be a lot more efficient than the old "flex" panel.

For anyone who missed the install pictures they are on page 12 -Reply #'s 111-113.
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
I'm running out of ideas ...except with the "craft beer" craze I decided to add a bottle opener to the outside rear . It got a lot of use with the fine beers Four Wheel provided at the "4th annual Owners Rally"

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Click to expand...
Jim,

Did you drill the holes for that opener, or just drive the screws in?

Gaylon
 
Sorry for delay in my reply Gaylon (was camping off the grid for a week).

I drilled the holes hitting a stud on the top screw - hitting "air" after breaking through the aluminum skin on bottom. Caulk holes with bathtub putty. All the force is on the top screw so have had no problems with it pulling out.
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
See pics new Renogy 150 watt Rigid, Glued onto roof using 3M VSB 4950 tape. Recommeded number of pads - 6. I used 8. And picture of new connection showing 10 gauge wire nuts. I was having difficulty getting the solder to blend because of the thickness of the wire. Wire nutting is a solid connection.

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RC Jim,

Where did you source the solar junction box you used on the roof top solar?
 
PM Harv - photohc - He recommended the junction box and the black wire couplers that plug into the box. I looked through my notes and am unable to locate the info. You will need to drill 1 inch diameter holes in the bottom and 2 sides. and buy a tube of "Dicor" to add to whatever sealand you use between the box and roof.

Hope that helps.
 
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