Experiences Going Dirt South Out of Hart Mt. Refuge [10/17]

Wallowa

Double Ought
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This is a report based on my questions posted in "Trip Planning" with same topic.

[SIZE=10pt]Left Enterprise 10/24 and spent night at Page Springs Campground and had dinner at Frenchglen Hotel. Next day stopped at Hart Refuge HQ and chatted with Habitat Biologist and Ranger. Told them of my plans to drive South and exit at Hwy 140 and was told no gates would be closed until 12/1 and that I would only have one water crossing [“and it would have a rock bottom”] while driving the ‘South Boundary Road’ [Guano Creek Rd] to the southern end of the Refuge at Jacobs Reservoir . Spent night at Hart Refuge Hot Springs CG; very nice area and next morning drove out South on the Blue Sky Rd and then West onto the Skyline Rd and up and over to South on Barnhardy Rd and along Guano Creek. Stopped at old Camp Warner and honored the two grave stones of army Cpls dated 1866 and 1867. Both had fresh American flags. Kept going since canyon was not best for my solar system on the FWC Hawk. All went well but slow, average speed 2-5 mph or slower crawling over volcanic rock,and just past the Long Lake turn off I came to the “only” water ford the staff had mentioned. My ’05 Tundra AC SR5 has my new Warn 8S Multi-Mount winch in the front receiver so the 2 foot + vertical berm on the exit end above the water of a long [40+ feet] trough of water/mud was a concern. No drive arounds. Four wheel Hi/Toyo AT II. First 5 feet had rock but then only soft stuff. Water was up to 2+ feet deep and I had to end up charging the exit point at an angle to clear the winch/axle when going over the exit berm. OK, got through but forgot to roll up the windows and water came onto hood and a little in through the windows. No bigee, but what waited for me about 1/8 mile further was. Driving in a reed marsh and came around a left hand curve to see 3 sections of obviously rutted out tracks of mud covered in water with perhaps 4 feet between them and bound on both sides by 3-4 foot high reeds. Crap. Decision point. Turn around or attempt it. Knowing that getting bogged in would mean the truck and camper would probably stay there for the winter and a long hike out for me. The last of the three sections of mire also had an at least 2.5 foot vertical berm above the water at the exit. Ok, slow entry, then felt nothing but ooze and I ramped up the speed, sliding and slopping through the first two that had 2 feet of water over rutted mud. Focused on the exit berm when entering the third submerged [2.5+ feet water in this one] mud trough; damn berm looked like a mountain, so I put my right front wheel on the center of the exit berm [which had ruts on right and left] bounced the Tundra/Hawk up and over. Pucker time, not a nice feeling. But it is better to be lucky than good. Thinking I was home free I got about 2 miles from Jacobs Res and guess what, another and more complicated water/mud/berm tank trap. The initial 30+ feet was mud with 2 feet of water, with a 3 foot exit berm at the far right corner edge and a 3+ foot berm across the center of the “road” with a 3-4 foot drop past that berm into deep mud tracks which continued for 50+ feet up the center inside steep vertical side walls. Hell, even a military Humvee would not get out up the center route. Again no alternate ways around these obstacles; only a faint set of tracks beyond the right side corner exit berm that eventually gained dry ground. Only option. No finesse just a slam bang spinning crawl up right side corner exit berm with a last second slide of rear end toward the deep recesses of the center track. Flailed on and brought rear of truck with me to dry ground. Time to change shorts.[/SIZE]
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[SIZE=10pt]Will cut this missive off. [/SIZE]


[SIZE=10pt]Night at Jacobs Res was very cool and road to Shirk Ranch [interesting site] was slow and rocky but fun. Next night at Sheldon [/SIZE][SIZE=13.3333px]Refuge [/SIZE][SIZE=10pt]Virgin Valley CG and hot springs was great; well, after I got the hunter to shut down his generator and the guy from Reno to quiet his staked out barking [coyote bait?] dog about 2200 hrs. From there north along East Steen Rd and from Burns to Seneca to Prairie City to Sumpter to Starkey I began to encounter tons, no thousands, of elk hunter encampments in every CG or possible dirt side road. After the solitude [never saw another person from Hart Refuge CG to Hwy 140], peace and quiet, for me the hunters were a huge put off so I went home three days early. One day after arriving home early I took my Bride into the ER at hospital at 0600 hrs and she had an emergency appendectomy at 1030 hrs. [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10pt]Like I said, tis' better to be lucky. :D[/SIZE][SIZE=10pt] [/SIZE]

[SIZE=10pt]Phil[/SIZE]

[SIZE=13.3333px]'05 Tundra/ '16 Hawk[/SIZE]
 
Thanks for the detailed writeup. While at Steens in Sept. I had pondered a trip across the Hart Mtn outback much like what you did, but decided it'd be too much to take on without obtaining more info, so I'll be saving that for another trip. Could be I'll just content myself with coming in the west (main) ingress from Plush? Anyway, I'm glad you pulled it off OK, that's quite an adventure you had.
Rico.
 
Wallowa, quite the backcountry adventure you've described for us. Yup, lots of pucker factor there, When we come to a tough obstacle, we're always thinking about what's around the next corner. We do a lot of scouting ahead on foot. Glad you pulled it off. We hope your wife is doing well and has a very quick recovery. :)

oh, 'round these parts we call it lion bait.
 
I should have read you first post more carefully. Definitely a different route than the one I took. Time to get out the maps. Glad you made it through okay.
 
Glad you made it out okay. Your description of the ford brings back those times when I'm cursing myself out and thinking why am I doing this!! Hope the Mrs is doing well!!

Sometimes you have to be good to be lucky!
 
Wow that is some epic water crossings! Glad you made it through safe and sound. As we had discussed earlier this was an epic water year for the SE desert so am not completely surprised at what you encountered but I haven't followed that more SE route to the Shirk Ranch.

I had an chance to talk with the Oregon Natural Desert Association coordinator for the Hart-Sheldon region but did not connect with him till after you left. He mentioned that with the staffing issues that Hart Refuge is experiencing at the moment the staff on hand may not have been very far out the South Boundary Road in quite a while, hence not the most reliable information.

I know both MarkBC and I have both done the South Boundary road solo (quite a while ago) and both thought it a great road to "have done" but not high on our list for a repeat. We mostly encountered rock and washout issues but our exit was via Warner Valley to the north. If you had followed the more south route towards the "other" Long Lake I doubt water would of been much of an issues but the rocky road has its own hazards ;)

One possibility about the deep ruts and puddles. With the wet year it could of inspired some serious attention from not so courteous 4WD'rs that may have really chewed up those crossings just to have a "little fun". When I did my solo through there it was the same weekend as the Order of the Antelope annual gathering and I remember encountering a fair amount of well lubricated yahoos having a fun time seeing how much mud they could spray on their rigs.

Here is a pic from my Flickr album that probably shows some of the landscape you traveled along. Hart Mtn in the background and Guano Creek flowing towards us.

Luck is a great piece of gear to have along. Cheers-
 

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Craggy,

Great photo thanks.

The water traps I encountered were before the road to the "other" Long Lake to the SW and out of the Hart and better accessed from Hwy 140...odd, you mentioned low staffing...biologist mentioned the Long Lake in the Refuge that was on my South Boundary/Guano Crk Rd route and then when asked about the road into it [a little south of the Spanish Flat intersection with the Guano Crk Rd]...he said it had been 14 years since he was in that area...Hmmmm...

Indeed somebody had to have really tried to dig in those ruts in the center of that last crossing...but I felt the ruts were old ones and the greater surprise was the amount of water in the crossings considering that Guano Crk was perhaps a max 3-4 feet across and 1 foot deep and flowing very, very slowly...the crossings problem area seemed to be a broad marsh area and which also precluded a walking survey without a thigh deep mud/water slog..

A mystery to me was why the south end of each crossing had what I called an "exit berm"...those vertical berms I had to climb to get out of the mire....north ends [entry points] were sloped to the south...

Big question for me: In the same situation knowing what happened on this trip would I still forge ahead after that first crossing? Tough call. Knowing what I know now, I would most likely [hedging there!] turn around; risk vs reward too high. Like backcountry skiing, never getting caught in an avalanche after many times in the mountains does not mean you will not get buried skiing the same slopes in the future. Complacency kills. My next mud crossing on that road under those circumstances might well trap me in the "Heart of the Hart".

Funny, but another saying kept going through my mind during those decisions points in the marsh: "Just because there is a road going there does not mean you should".

But often an adventure is defined by the misadventures. I had a great time!

Phil

Ps...Thanks for the well-wishes for my Bride. She is recovering fine; she has a first-rate caretaker. :D
 
Coming in from the Catlow Valley side, congratulations on not shaking your camper apart getting to the Headquarters. Back in September that was the worst washboard I've driven in a long time. Congratulations on completing the trip.
 
LuckyDan said:
Coming in from the Catlow Valley side, congratulations on not shaking your camper apart getting to the Headquarters. Back in September that was the worst washboard I've driven in a long time. Congratulations on completing the trip.

No big deal getting through, just got lucky...the FWC Hawk is amazing...in my estimation, high quality and functional...after all the twisting and pounding only the RF turnbuckle was 1/2 turn loose...well, and the pie in the icebox was turned into cobbler.. :D

Washboard coming into Refuge was bad but not as worst as I have seen it....after the hot springs it was a basalt rock-a-rolla...until Shirk Ranch..
 
Correction on Camp Warner Head Stones; they deserve correct identification. Tough winters are what put them in their graves.
.

Sgt. Edward Cantrell Co. B, 23 US Inf
1846-1867

Pvt. Lewis Debold Co. D, 14 US Inf
1847-1866


[Anyone willing to PM me and slowly lead me through how to post images, I would appreciate it.]

Phil
 
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