Finally Got My CO, Got Questions

[Nailhead]

Picked up my new (to me) '85 8' CO in Portland this past weekend. I found out it's one-owner, with all manuals & paperwork received at purchase.

I also found out the top lowers unevenly and actually bound up when we lowered it for loading (dry lube spray solved that). Why does it (other than weight distribution) want to lower unevenly? It has a replacement jack in it, which makes wonder if that doesn't have something to do with it.

More questions to follow after I get some sleep & get to know this thing a little better.

Thanks.

 

[Nailhead]

Next question: I remember my grandfather’s ‘66 F-250 had a four-prong plug on the driver-side of the truck roof for the camper 12V feed.

Where do I get one of those receptacles to install on the truck?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Get the info from the camper plug, then look online. eTrailer should have a good selection.

 

[Nailhead]

Get the info from the camper plug, then look online. eTrailer should have a good selection.

Thank you for the tip.

I looked in every possibly relevant electrical category there and came up empty. Same with RV Parts Country— nothing. If I was looking for 110V cords, I’d be in business, but this one seems like it might not be obtainable anymore. So be it— I’ll hardwire it.

 

[Optimistic Paranoid]

I also found out the top lowers unevenly and actually bound up when we lowered it for loading (dry lube spray solved that). Why does it (other than weight distribution) want to lower unevenly? It has a replacement jack in it, which makes wonder if that doesn't have something to do with it.
.

Take a look at the two 'pinned' threads at the top, dealing with O ring replacement and also with changing fluids.

 

[wagoneer]

When I am not in the perfect flat space I run into the same issue my solution has been to stand on the tail gate grab the boat rack and at the slowest/ slightly opened jack it is easy to guide not taking a lot of strength and watch the jacks as they lower.

 

[Nailhead]

Cool-- thanks!

I found lifting on the front of the CO evens it up, but I think that only works when it's out of the truck.

I'll look at those o-ring & fluids again. I need to replace the o-rings in the NCO, so a refresher won't hurt.

 

[Nailhead]

Get the info from the camper plug, then look online. eTrailer should have a good selection.

I spoke too soon: I did find that connector under "towing", not "RV electrical" where I expected to find it. Anyway, thank you again.

 

[PackRat]

If you have a U-Haul nearby, they stock many of the different pin options.

You MUST be on flat ground for this system to raise/lower your top!

Older Alaskans tend to yaw at the rear, meaning the bottom has splayed outwards and that can put a bind on the rear pistons especially in lowering the top. Check to see how the lower door aligns at the top/bottom of the lower section of the Alaskan. If you detect splaying, then you can do as I did and get some shims to evenly close the gap. Use your jacks to raise the rear just a tad and you will probably see that yawing/gap diminish. Insert a shim on each rear corner and drive it in snugly. Now lower the camper down and check to see if you have now aligned the top/bottom of the lower door with the door jam...if you did, great, if not, you need thicker and longer shims! Once you see that alignment is good, try raising and lowering the top again and see if it goes easier. I still have to open the petcock on the pump and pull down a little on the rear on my '76 CO.

Now....Try bleeding the four lines as you would car brakes; starting with the one farthest from the pump. Be sure to keep an eye on the level of fluid in the pump reservoir!

If bleeding does not help and aligning doesn't either, then new O-rings are needed. Buy them from Brian at Alaskan to insure you get the correct dimension ones.

 

[Nailhead]

If you have a U-Haul nearby, they stock many of the different pin options.

You MUST be on flat ground for this system to raise/lower your top!

Older Alaskans tend to yaw at the rear, meaning the bottom has splayed outwards and that can put a bind on the rear pistons especially in lowering the top. Check to see how the lower door aligns at the top/bottom of the lower section of the Alaskan. If you detect splaying, then you can do as I did and get some shims to evenly close the gap. Use your jacks to raise the rear just a tad and you will probably see that yawing/gap diminish. Insert a shim on each rear corner and drive it in snugly. Now lower the camper down and check to see if you have now aligned the top/bottom of the lower door with the door jam...if you did, great, if not, you need thicker and longer shims! Once you see that alignment is good, try raising and lowering the top again and see if it goes easier. I still have to open the petcock on the pump and pull down a little on the rear on my '76 CO.

Now....Try bleeding the four lines as you would car brakes; starting with the one farthest from the pump. Be sure to keep an eye on the level of fluid in the pump reservoir!

If bleeding does not help and aligning doesn't either, then new O-rings are needed. Buy them from Brian at Alaskan to insure you get the correct dimension ones.

It was dead level when we lowered it in Portland prior to setting out for home, but, like I say, some spray lube pretty much solved that.

I'll refer to this when I get it up to WY on a level surface; right now, it's sitting in my buddy's sloped driveway, raised only enough to clear the tops of the jacks.

I did in fact find those 4-pin plugs, but there's a U-haul store about a mile from the camper, so I'll check there before ordering them.

Thanks for the info as always, PR.

 

[PackRat]

I'd still want to check the lower door frame for splaying at the top. This will cause binding in the sliders. If you lubed the sliders and it seemed to go up/down better that's helpful, but again...when you close the lower door, do you see the same amount of the "frame" to the left of the door flashing at the top as at the bottom? This is the way you know if the rear bottom sections have splayed and need some shimming to resolve that and get the door aligned perfectly. When the door is aligned, the sliders are aligned and, after some lube, will move much more in sync with the front sliders you lubed.

 

[Nailhead]

I'd still want to check the lower door frame for splaying at the top. This will cause binding in the sliders. If you lubed the sliders and it seemed to go up/down better that's helpful, but again...when you close the lower door, do you see the same amount of the "frame" to the left of the door flashing at the top as at the bottom? This is the way you know if the rear bottom sections have splayed and need some shimming to resolve that and get the door aligned perfectly. When the door is aligned, the sliders are aligned and, after some lube, will move much more in sync with the front sliders you lubed.

Until we get it on the IH, everywhere it sits is temporary, so I don't see much point in messing with it until then. I am starting to see some need for the flattest surface possible for one of these campers to sit on, one that stays flat & doesn't flex much.

If anything, the bottom door opening is the reverse of splayed: the door was a tight fit when we closed it.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

IH -> Corn Binder?

 

[Wooddog]

Nailhead,

You are correct that Alaskans need a flat surface to sit on. The bed on my F-250 sags across the back causing the door to bind if it is not shimmed under each side of the door.

A quick note on hydraulics: Alaskan C/O models are unbalanced by design; there is more weight on the front cylinders than the rear. If you push up on the low side you are creating a vacuum on those cylinders. It can be easier to suck air into the cylinder than to pull hydraulic fluid into it from the rest of the system. Hydraulics work better when you increase the pressure by pushing fluid from the high side to the low side. I have a nylon strap bolted to either side of the top of the door I hang from with one hand while raising or lowering my roof. I can hold it quite level this way but I will admit there is always a little anxiety when it's time to lower the roof.

Bruce

 

[Nailhead]

IH -> Corn Binder?

Yessir, a '72 1310 4x4 dually.

 

[Nailhead]

Nailhead,

You are correct that Alaskans need a flat surface to sit on. The bed on my F-250 sags across the back causing the door to bind if it is not shimmed under each side of the door.

A quick note on hydraulics: Alaskan C/O models are unbalanced by design; there is more weight on the front cylinders than the rear. If you push up on the low side you are creating a vacuum on those cylinders. It can be easier to suck air into the cylinder than to pull hydraulic fluid into it from the rest of the system. Hydraulics work better when you increase the pressure by pushing fluid from the high side to the low side. I have a nylon strap bolted to either side of the top of the door I hang from with one hand while raising or lowering my roof. I can hold it quite level this way but I will admit there is always a little anxiety when it's time to lower the roof.

Bruce

Interesting. Thank you Bruce.

 

[PackRat]

First thing to do is to inspect the steel "L" bracket running across the rear of the lower section beneath the door. You will notice it is cut lower where the door is located. Look for CRACKS in the corners as that is a significant clue to splay. Pinching at the top of the bottom door where it locks into the lower section indicates the opposite and might be due to some soft wood allowing that to occur.

If an Alaskan is resting on the floor of your truck, it will possibly show some splay at the rear on the door at the TOP of the bottom section. Using some shims inserted from each side corner with the camper elevated and then set down a few times to get the distance you need to push those shims in will alleviate that.

However if the bottom section is resting on the bed rails or some jacks and pressure is applied there, then the splay becomes a pinching of the door itself in the door jamb at the top.