Folding Solar Recommendation

[Trailbob]

I am looking for recommendations on which folding solar set-up to buy. The three I'm looking at are the 120w Go Power, 120w Zamp, or 100w Renogy. I would also consider others in this size that I missed.

The folding solar will augment existing roof top solar on my camper, as well as a travel trailer, when parked in the shade or when the sun is low in the winter. I am limited to these sizes, as it is the most power I can get and still store it where it will be carried. I have considered making my own set-up (and still may), but I really like the complete units with a storage case for protection while traveling.

I want the option of disconnecting (bypassing) the controller that is attached to each unit, and running my own wire to a plug that will connect to the trailer or camper solar controller (PWM). From what I can see from photographs, it would be easy to bypass the Go Power and Renogy controllers, and reconnect if I wanted to use them in the future (for a boat or something else). Not sure if I could do this on the Zamp.

The Renogy has less watts, but is half the price and has better ratings on Amazon than Go Power.

Has anyone compared the three brands, and if so, what did you find? Other thoughts?

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Trailbob, I believe you can buy the Zamp portable without a controller, but per a conversation with them, there is no easy/clean way to bypass the controller on the portable I have their 80 watt portable for augmenting my solar on the travel trailer, and had hoped to use it on the FWC Grandby as well. If I do use it on the Grandby, I'm going to disconnect the wiring from the rear solar connector to the onboard controller, then do a direct connect to the battery. I will use a circuit breaker on the positive lead, so wiring to the plug isn't hot when not in use.

On the trailer, I just go directly to the battery since they are in an external box. I have a Zamp 150 watt on top.

 

[Bosque Bill]

Sorry, no experience myself, but you might want to look also at Overland Solar. Jonathan Hanson has featured them in his overland newsletter. You can buy them to connect directly to your battery bank or get the optional inverter.

This link is for the 150w, but they also have a 90w version:
http://overlandsolar.com/collections/portable-solar-panels/products/copy-of-copy-of-3-panel-folding-150w-solar-unit

 

[billharr]

I have the 120w Solar in a bag. Cost was just about $200 works fine but it is big. This is an old WTW thread on Solar in the bags.
I have mine wired to by pass the solar in a bag controller and run to the controller in the camper.

One other possibility is what Harv did a flex panel on light weight sign board. It is very light and easy to set up.

 

[photohc]

This is what I did with a flexible panel. This is the "no longer available" Renogy 100 watt panel. (you can find others on eBay.)
Total weight, 6 lbs, using foam core insulation from Lowes. Harv

 

[Trailbob]

Thanks all for the info. I had never heard of Overland Solar, and the "solar in a bag" thread was helpful. The flex panel on foam also looks like a good idea. I sent Overland Solar an email with a list of specific questions. They sent a detailed reply and offered to customize the wiring with an Anderson connector to allow me to either use or bypass the portable's controller, and upgrade the wiring size from the panel to the battery (for a small fee)-- good customer service.

Wandering Sagebrush, I have a couple questions: When you connect the 80w Zamp directly to your TT (which has its own solar on the roof), have you noticed any conflict between the portable's controller and the TT's controller, if both panels are in the sun?

Are you satisfied with how the 80w works with your TT, and would you buy that size again?

Thanks again- Bob

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Bob,

I have not noticed a conflict between the two panels. My simplistic view is they are just two charging sources, like the AS converter running when solar is active. My biggest complaint about the panel is one the older style, like mine, the controller is awkward to access, since it is flat against the back of the panel. The newer units have a hinged controller so you can see/access it easily.

I think the 80 watt is fine. A larger size would be great for charging, but physical size would be a negative.

Steve

 

[Bigfoot Dave]

Check out BHA Solar. I bought a nice folding 120 Watt setup without a controller that I can plug into my Trimetric SC2030 controller. Paired up with the Trimetric 2030 monitor it gives you solid input on battery condition and allows you to control the solat input better too. Happy Holidays, Bigfoot Dave

 

[Trailbob]

Steve- Thanks for the update on how your 80w system works for you. Great point about size vs charging.

Bigfoot Dave- Thanks for the info BHA solar. Looks like another good option to consider.

 

[DrJ]

I have owned both the Renogy 100 watt folding panel and the Zamp 200 watt folding panel.

Both setups included the solar controller and were very easy to use.

I believe the Zamp panels were of a higher quality, but much more expensive.
I paid $900-1000 for the Zamp set up and $250 for the Renogy setup.

Both systems worked perfectly and I still have the Renogy setup.
I sold the Zamp setup with a trailer I owned.

If I had to buy again, I would not buy the 200 watt Zamp panel.
It was too expensive and too large to handle easily as a portable panel.
I ended up just affixing it to the roof of my trailer.

I would consider a smaller Zamp folding system if the cost was similar to Renogy.

 

[rotti]

I also have the 100w Renogy folding suitcase. Very happy with its performance. It folds up nicely into a quality case and has been supplying all the power for my needs the past three years. It is a perfect fit behind my roll over couch.

 

[Trailbob]

Dr J and Rotti, thanks for your input. Looks like the 100w Renogy is a good value for the price.

 

[Ace!]

I posted before about the 100W panel sold by Costco. It is $149, was on sale for a time for $129. It was easy to hook up a Zamp indoor/outdoor solar controller with Zamp style (SAE) plug (since that's what my FWC uses). I spent a relatively small amount of money (bought a controller that would work with up to 255W) and can buy a second panel if necessary that is plug-n-play. It will be my portable kit, and it may be permanently mounted at some point.

Anyway, Costco was sold out of the 100W panels, but they have them again for $149.

 

[Ramblinman]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2?

Am I right to assume that both batteries connected will work as one unit?

 

[Trailbob]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2?

Yes, that would be the correct way to do it. Personally, I would consider alligator clips a temporary solution, and would prefer to hardwire a detachable plug where one could easily connect/disconnect the portable solar. But what you proposed will work.

 

[PaulT]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2?

Am I right to assume that both batteries connected will work as one unit?

1. Please don't do that unless there is a solar charge controller on the panel. Because a bare "12 volt" solar panel will produce somewhere between 17 and 22 volts, it will cook your battery in short order.

2. Are both batteries 12 volt or are they 6 volt golf cart batteries?

a. If the two batteries are 12 volt in parallel, hooking up the way you suggest is fine.

b. If they are two 6 volt batteries hooked up in series, be sure that you hook them up such that the +12 v solar controller output is hooked up to the battery +12 v connector and the ground solar controller output is hooked up the battery 12 v ground connector.

Use a meter to verify the voltages are correct

Paul

 

[muttmaster]

With the help of some of the experts on this forum, I was able to install 125 watts roof panel and Trimetric monitor and controller. System works great for my single battery. I just purchased a Renogy folding 100 watts for winter use, just in case I needed it and in case I add another battery, or have more power draw in the future. At lease that is my excuse for justifying the purchase anyway.

The Renogy comes with controller, and the first question I have is how the portable will be compatible with the Trimetric setup. Bogart SC-2030 manual (4.1.5) says more than one controller can be used, but must be connected to the TM-2030 so it can "see" the portable's current when it is charging, but I can't seem to find where they shows how to connect the portable to the TM-2030.

The Renogy comes with battery clips and voltage sensor and temperature sensor. I really don't want to spent much time worrying about it as I just want to have some back up charging capability and the portable can allow me to use in other applications.

Any advise? Can the Trimetric tells me which panel is collecting how many amps? Should I just connect the Renogy when needed and don't worry about it?

I will do some research under Trimetric forum, but their manuals makes my head hurt.

 

[muttmaster]

Called Renogy and asked Tech dept about modifying the wiring connections to on-board folding panel controller. They informed me that any mod will void warranty. Suggested that I should of purchased portable panel without controller so I can connect to installed SC-2030 in camper. I was hoping to be able to connect to SC-2030 with the fold-able and also be able to hook up panel controller when using it for charging other batteries off the camper, but that is not going to happen.

I also emailed Bogart and asked about wiring from secondary controller from my fold-able, but have not received any reply.

I don't anticipate using the fold-able backup panel that much, so I am not going to worry about having precise battery readings from my fold-able. Probably can be done, per Bogart's dual SC2030 setup, but too much trouble.

Did make 10' and 25' 10 gauge extension with Anderson connectors for the fold-able, so I accomplished something today.

 

[Squatch]

I made my own. 2 Solar Cynergy 60 watt poly panels were cheap! I added a couple of hinges to fold them. 25' 8 gauge cable with Anderson connectors on each end for an extension. They are wired parallel into the same Anderson connector. Then plugged in to the camper parallel to the main panel before the charge controller. A little heavy but put out great power and price was under $100.

 

[Trailbob]

My portable solar is a 90W Overland Solar panel. It came with Anderson (SB50) connectors between the panel and the panel's controller, and another Anderson connector coming out of the controller to connect to the battery. This allows me to either use the panel's controller to charge a battery, or unplug the panel's controller and go directly from the panel to the SC2030 controller in my camper. I have two extension cables with Anderson connectors: one is approx 10' long and made from 10 ga wire, the other is about 25 or 30' and made from 8 ga marine duplex.

I'm not sure if it would be feasible to disconnect you panel's controller, or add a quick disconnect plug between the panel and the panel's controller. But that is what would have to be done if you want to bypass the panel's controller. I believe some portable panels can be purchased without a controller, in which case you would run directly to the camper's SC2030 controller.

In my camper, I used an Anderson SB50 connector for the portable panel. I paralleled the connections from the portable panel input to the input from the roof panel. In my Hawk, I think I used a power stud for the connection. I did the same set up in our travel trailer, but I used a 3 way Blue Sea marine battery switch for the connection. Both work, but I think the 3 way switch is a better way to go.

If you don't want to bypass your portable panel's controller, you could wire a quick connect (Anderson) to the positive side of the battery, and the camper side of the shunt on the battery negative. You would be bypassing the SC2030, but the Trimetric RV2030 would still log the amps in and out. You could temporarily hook it up that way to see if you are happy with the results.

I had good luck calling Bogart when I had questions, but sometimes it took a bit to get through. I would definitely follow what they say over my ideas if they are different.

Good luck with your project. It can be a challenge to set it all up, but it will be worth it for the flexibility it gives you.

-Bob