Freshwater All Metal Drain Valve Replacement Parts and Pics

G

gaylon

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Oct 7, 2015
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176
Location
Boulder Creek

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Thanks!!!!! If we ever cross paths I will gladly buy you a cold beverage. I had resigned my self to changing it out every 2 years with the the plastic one.

FWC if you listening time for an upgrade. :) :D
 
OK, so may I assume this is an item that breaks regularly? Guess I will order the parts and have handy if / when needed.

I use mine a lot. I actually use it to fill my dogs water bowl while outside camper and when traveling at rest stops.
 
I an not sure that I would say that this fails often, but it doesn't flow well even new and I wanted something to which I could firmly attach a hose.
 
gaylon said:
I an not sure that I would say that this fails often, but it doesn't flow well even new and I wanted something to which I could firmly attach a hose.
Click to expand...

This sounds reasonable...attachment of a hose...we just use this drain spigot to drain the system, not as a water source...but if used as a water source a hose would be good..

Question: Will installing the nifty set-up shown by 'Gaylon' be adequately supported in the internal plastic plumbing to prevent cracking that inside plastic from the weight of the new fixture or if a hose is attached to it? Hopefully the plate is supportive enough.

For those, and I think very few, that have damaged the FWC spigot this seems to be a great fix....but for the rest of us, perhaps an answer to a question not yet asked...

Thanks Gaylon for the photos and sources.

Phil
 
The inside tubing on mine is PEX or equivalent. No risk there. Flange is screwed into aluminum plate or framing.
 
gaylon said:
The inside tubing on mine is PEX or equivalent. No risk there. Flange is screwed into aluminum plate or framing.
Click to expand...

Thanks...hitting a substantial surface when screwing in the supportive plate is critical..in the past FWC owners have had problems knowing where the frame members are located under the external skin; often finding solid attachment points has been a crap shoot...hopefully, the existing FWC spigots were attached to the framing which could support the new spigot.

Do appreciate your write up and photos...thanks again.

Phil
 
My solution to the cheap broken plastic drain valve is similar to Gaylon's. I bought the same flange he did on eBay <http://www.ebay.com/itm/181845510888>. It's pricey but well made and the mounting holes are the same as the old valve. When I unscrewed the old valve from the back camper wall I was able to pull out enough of the plastic drain hose to clamp with my little Vise Grips and then install the new flange.

I did get the petcock valve as recommended (see pictures) but have found I like the brass plug better. No worry about breaking it off and water flows out faster than with the petcock. I don't drain the tank often so all in all I like the new setup.
 

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I'm similar to XJINTX. I use mine regularly to fill water bottles etc. It's convenient.

I'm aware that this is component that breaks rather easily if used frequently.
I can see that the plastic is a little fatigued. It's a lighter white collar in the stress points. I've been careful to try to turn it from the middle, as to not put as much torque on the "handle" portion.
So far it has served us well for 4 years with regular use. We are still using the original factory unit.

Thank for the links to the good stuff. I really like gaylon's setup.
Strong and great for filling bottles etc.
I may go that route when it breaks. I haven't priced out the factory option. If it's cheap enough I may just replace it with plastic and plan to do so every few years.
 
Gaylon,

What were the "..mounting holes are the same as the old valve." tapped into aluminum or plastic or even wood?

Bill D,

Please clarify and explain this statement: "I'm aware that this is component that breaks rather easily if used frequently."

News to me but I don't carefully monitor this forum to glean that type of info.

Thanks for any and all info.

Phil
 
Bill D,

Please clarify and explain this statement: "I'm aware that this is component that breaks rather easily if used frequently."

News to me but I don't carefully monitor this forum to glean that type of info.

Thanks for any and all info.

Phil


Phil,

I only live a couple blocks away form Ramblin Man. I know he has went through a few of them. He was even kind enough to offer me a spare one for when mine breaks.
​It's pretty clear to see that mine WILL break fairy soon. I've been careful with it, but it's bound to happen. You can see when turning the "handle" that it is fatigued and bound to fail.

If I feel ambitious, I'll take a picture of mine and post it.
 
Thanks Bill..does or did FWC use different designs for these drain spigots over the years?

Why would Ramblin have multi failures?

..I will indeed keep a weather eye on the drain spigot in our '16 Hawk...

Phil
 
Phil - I should have said the mounting holes for the new flange are the same size as the old flange/valve combo unit. On my 15 Hawk side dinette, the holes seem to be in the frame or another aluminum plate behind the camper siding.
 
It seems the factory-installed plastic drain valve gets brittle and easily broken if exposed to lots of sunlight (UV rays). Our FWC is on the truck most of the time and in the sun (what there is of it in the Pacific Northwest). Other typical RV exterior parts, like plastic light fixtures, have the same problems. Light, cheap and sturdy; seems like you can only have two of the three at any one time.
 
It's not a huge concern. If/when it breaks the spigot will still work, but you may need to use a pair of pliers to rotate it into the open/closed position.

I agree... It's just the nature of an inexpensive plastic component, that is exposed to the elements. It's going to get brittle.
 
OK....BS...getting backup spares is a good idea but maybe it is not just about time, but money and space also..I believe in playing "what it" and being prepared but even preparation has its limits..

Bill...I missed it...if the spigot breaks it will still work? You mean if the handle on the spigot breaks you can still turn the valve...I was thinking the spigot failure under discussion meant the spigot itself failed/broke and not just the handle...

It was good to hear that the current location of FWC spigots seems to be backed by an aluminum frame to which the plate is screwed into...
 
Great idea. I have been ever so gentle opening the factory valve. Not doubt it will fail at the most inopportune time and I will lose all my fresh water. This is an upgrade I will make ASAP.

UV light is a prime enemy for plastics. White, marine grade plastic is better, but, still not as good as stainless steel. Brass works well in in most environs we take our campers.

Thanks for posting gents!
 
I really appreciate the posts with the links to the parts used to replace the plastic spigot. While I haven't had problems with mine (yet) other than the low flow rate, this part has always seemed to be uncharacteristically flimsy compared to the rest of my relatively rugged FWC camper.
 
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