Freshwater All Metal Drain Valve Replacement Parts and Pics

rando said:
Here is one like what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/DIAL-9443-4x18-Ball-Valve/dp/B000BQWU0G

Compact and has held up well so far. It has a small handle that is unlikely to get whacked or caught on anything. The one I bought was slightly different in that it has a blue handle, which is nice for water. I use it all the time for filling water bottles.
Click to expand...

Rando...how did this valve attach to the camper? Flange? Another fitting to mate with water line?

Thanks...Phil
 
IMG_0784.jpgIMG_0785.jpg
Wallowa said:
Thanks..perhaps a picture installed?
Click to expand...
 
"Just finished the install of mine. For the TL;DR crowd - it was pretty straightforward and it's a beautiful bit of kit.

Overall very happy with it. The quality of the two parts is extremely good, but with shipping the cost is close to $50 for both. I also bought black anodized screws for the total black-out effect.

As mentioned, it's a bit tricky getting enough of the hose pulled out to seat the barb of the flange. I used a long needle-nosed pliers and gently worked it out. Was surprised to find a screw-type hose clamp on the hose as there is very little pressure. I reinstalled the hose clamp, figured better safe than sorry. It looked like FWC had used plumber's putty as the sealant so that's what I used.

The action of the valve is incredibly smooth, I spent a good 10 minutes just turning it on and off. Good thing the drought is over, I probably wasted 5 gallons of water.

When the valve is off, the door clears it easily. When the valve is on, the door will contact the valve if the door "stay open" latch is not used. It is possible that if the valve were on and the door was opened violently, it would hit and possibly damage the valve. I think this is low risk as the valve is off most of the time."




Very nice PJorgen

- I will do this as well. Did you use an adapter (male 1/8” NPT to female 1/4” NPT adaptor fitting) since the flange has a 1/8” NPT female opening and the valve has a 1/4” male fitting? Like this https://www.amazon.com/Fittings-1-4-Female-Male-Reducer/dp/B01CAVFIVC


Valve:


https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-12-0085-Degree-Valve/dp/B00JOPE8JQ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&dpID=41tHb2pBxtL&dpPl=1&keywords=Motion%20Pro%2012-0085%201%2F4%26%2334%3B%20NPT%20x%201%2F4%26%2334%3B%20Barb%2090%20Degree%20Fuel%20Valve&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1495064901&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1




Metal Flange
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-FRESH-WATER-DRAIN-VALVE-FLANGE-3-8-or-1-2-WON-T-FAIL-EVER-AGAIN-/181845510888?pageci=daea041d-36f6-499c-9e8a-12112c76e979
 
Fifty bucks for the upgrade to the fancy flange and valve! Amazon has Camco plastic drain valve for less than $3. If I replace the valve couple of times a years...there must be a better and cheaper way to have a usable valve that can last a few years without spending $50.
 
Certainly that is an option. I think most spend the money because a failure while you're visiting saline valley (or pick a spot) would be fairly catastrophic. Not life threatening but certainly quite annoying. Unfortunately the guy that makes the flange has pretty much cornered the market and doesn't exactly sell a huge quantity (though 411 is few more that I would have guessed).
 
Anyone tried a power washer 3/8” barb to 3/4” garden hose adapter plus a elbow shut off valve. Maybe JB weld a big washer as mounting plate? Or sacrifice the cheap plastic valve to use the mounting plate. Cost less than $15. Think I will order the parts and experiment. Maybe I can corner the market too.
 
https://www.mcmaster.com/4792k66

Use pipe thread bushings to reduce it down to whatever threads are on the appropriate sized barb. Note that it has garden hose threads on the outlet so that you can use your sink drain hose to direct the water away from the truck while also flushing it clean for long term storage.

Or; use this and screw whatever you want onto both ends.

https://www.mcmaster.com/50785k272
 
Bernard informed me that the McMaster Stillcock sticks out 2 5/8” from camper wall, and with hose attached, it would be more. My door can’t be latched closed. I have only 2 1/2” clearance.
 
For a drain valve I'm not concerned about lead content. Water isn't going to be in contact with it long enough for the lead to diffuse back up the hose and into the tank. I suppose if I left the water tank full all of the time it might be a problem, but that's asking for biological problems too.
 
Good point. We all been drinking through lead pipes for many decades anyway. Maybe those twitches will go away someday.
 
I wanted to post an update to an old thread. I used this valve from Amazon (with an adapter).
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-12-0085-Degree-Valve/dp/B00JOPE8JQ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tHb2pBxtL&dpPl=1&keywords=Motion%20Pro%2012-0085%201%2F4%26%2334%3B%20NPT%20x%201%2F4%26%2334%3B%20Barb%2090%20Degree%20Fuel%20Valve&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1495064901&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1

I went to put water in my tank this morning in preparation for a trip tomorrow. The valve failed. It leaks. It's < 1 year old so we'll see if the company stands behind their product and luckily I kept my old plastic valve.
 
Finally did mine while my son was here to have a 3rd hand. Not much hose to work with behind there. I want some black screws now too. I’d upload a picture but not having
any luck.

The flange was $15 and the little valve was $2. Peace of knowing it isn’t gonna break, priceless.
 
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